Quantcast
Jump to content

2000 Arctic Cat 500 Starting Problem


drewster

Recommended Posts

Just joined and hope someone out there can help. I am having an issue with my 2000 Arctic Cat 500 with 1,000 miles on it. All of a sudden it will not start. It was running fine all hunting season then three weeks ago it wouldnt start. It has spark and fuel gets to the carb. I have a service CD and it lists issues of not starting but without spark or without fuel to carb, but not one with spark and with fuel getting to carb. This is what I have done so far with no luck. I have drained and changed the fuel and added an inline fuel filter, cleaned the carb three times, replaced the choke cable (no reason just thought it might help),cleaned the air filter and changed the spark plug. What else could it be? I did not want to buy a CDI box or ignition coil without knowing for sure that is what it is. Would a bad CDI box still allow spark? Help....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Let me see if I can find the wiring diagram.

The CDI does act up if the battery is low but that is not the case. The Ignition coil is like $25 and that was the first thing I replaced on mine along with larger guage starter wiring but that did not help.

I think it is the starter itself if i will start with the pullstart and keep running fine.

I know I had problems with the starter and I switched it out and all was fine. The brushes were bad. Same thing happened to my buddy with a 400.

The magnets on the flywheel have also been known to cause problems but I don't think the bike would run at all if that is the case.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Uglyside38
      I have a 1988 Quadrunner 250 2wd. My brother in law sold it to my son for $20...had been sitting outside for several years. Got it home and had it running in about 30 mins. Ran it a bit and then went to looking at the carb as it was having trouble idling. Was getting it pretty close, then started losing spark...Also, it wouldn't start up every time...only about 1 in 5 tries. Anyway...now, it has what I can only describe as "intermittent" spark. I can get 1 light spark right when the start button is pressed and sometimes one when it's released...but none while cranking. 🤷‍♂️

      I have replaced the spark plug, ignition coil/wire, and traced wires best I can. I noticed a couple frayed wires at the pickup coil where it enters the case. So, now I have the cover off, stator and pickup coil out and trying to test the coil. I do have about 114 ohms resistance for pickup best I can tell. And I can read minute voltage when I drag a magnet across it. Could it still be bad? Can a bad ignition switch/button cause this? (I did have the switch off to oil the choke cable)...pulling rope makes no difference though...any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated!!! It's the intermittent part that's throwing me off! 

    • By rgeiser
      View File 2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      Submitter rgeiser Submitted 04/18/2024 Category Polaris UTV  
    • By Mhatayas
      My uncle bought a Baja 250, 2006. Knew there was no spark since the get go. He don't know anything about quads so is getting me to help him try to get it running...
       
      battery is bad so I connected battery charger to it to crank it over , cranks over well , but no spark .... 
      Lights and everything work fine , but with each crank over using the e start switch , the display reads 999 888 777 666 ... Right down to 000 and repeats itself . 
       
      He managed to get a parts bike , I changed over the CDI and the coil and the stator from the parts bike and there was another black box by the voltage regulator I changed over ... I used my multimeter to confirm as much as I could works , it's hard without knowing which wires are which , and I cannot find any diagrams online for this bike ? 
       
      Do you think it could be the Killswitch? There's so many wires coming from there I don't know where to start . Also I should mention it appears the fan on the front of the bike has been taken off (the wires have been cut too ) 
       
      If this bike sparked it would run . The previous owner said he parked it one day and it just wouldn't start after.
    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By Its-always-something
      Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
       
      Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
       
       
      Any help and information greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...