Quantcast
Jump to content

2007 Outlander Max XT - Stalls or won't start


Guest

Recommended Posts

I have a 2007 Outlander MAX XT.

I had a major problems getting it started this spring. I went through three spark plugs before I went more then 18km.

When it starts I don't have any power for about 0.1km and it will often stall. Once it gets going it runs fine (went for a short 30km run last weekend with no problems).

Last night it started fine but then cut out after less then 2 minutes while letting it warm up (currently -15 deg celcius -27 with wind chill)

This morning it wouldn't start at all.

There are a number of Outlanders here in town which all seem to be working fine but they are all older models.

Could this just be because it is so cold? Or are there some other test I should do to help diagnose this problem?

Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a fuel injected machine? Do you have fresh gas in it along with a clean air filter.

I believe that is Fuel Injected. It's obviously a cold start issue. Some possible causes:

1. EFI systems are controlled by a mini ECM or module, and may need to be flashed or reprogrammed. Could be what BuckBilly said.

2. Not sure, but maybe there is a cold start injector like on cars that may be having an issue.

3. Could be a temperature sensor that is not telling the machine to dump more fuel when it's cold or before reaching operating temperature.

No matter how you look at it, since it's fuel injected..I would take it to a dealer if you are not familiar with the system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thank everyone for their thoughts and suggestions. Here is what I discovered.

Yes there is some water in the gas... but not enough to cause problems.... Turns out that even though BRP suggests using NGK spark plugs... THEY DON"T WORK!!!

I was able to finally find a Champion plug that fits and my baby fired up first try - with no choke - for the first time in the three years that I had it...

was just out cruising on the sea ice for a few hrs and she's running perfect in the -15deg Celcius temperature...

now I just need the snow to melt so I can get out for a real ride...

again... thaks for the suggestions...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Jeff- firstly, you mentioned in your last post that you had choke on your unit, which makes me thik that it is a 400 single, not the v twin efi.

If so, 400's have be notorious for fouling plugs. Some have done some pilot jet changes slightly leaner. As to cold weather use, definetly switch to the 0-40w sythetic oil . And i recommend a pan heater , low wattage- 75-125 watt, plug in 2-3 hrs before need.

Hope this helps

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
can you give me the champion plug number both my 400 ,s eat ngk plugs every time i ride them thanks

:biggrin: GOOD MORNING DODGE, THE EARLY OUTLANDERS WERE AND ARE HARD ON PLUGS, AS PER MY PREVIOUS POST. I HAVE ALWAYS FOUND CHAMPION PLUGS TO BE FECAL MATTER BUT SOME PEOPLE LIKE THEM.

THE CHAMPION NUMBERS ARE 809 OR RA6HC. LET ME KNOW IF THEY WORK ANY BETTER.

THANKS

DOONORTH:biggrin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Uglyside38
      I have a 1988 Quadrunner 250 2wd. My brother in law sold it to my son for $20...had been sitting outside for several years. Got it home and had it running in about 30 mins. Ran it a bit and then went to looking at the carb as it was having trouble idling. Was getting it pretty close, then started losing spark...Also, it wouldn't start up every time...only about 1 in 5 tries. Anyway...now, it has what I can only describe as "intermittent" spark. I can get 1 light spark right when the start button is pressed and sometimes one when it's released...but none while cranking. 🤷‍♂️

      I have replaced the spark plug, ignition coil/wire, and traced wires best I can. I noticed a couple frayed wires at the pickup coil where it enters the case. So, now I have the cover off, stator and pickup coil out and trying to test the coil. I do have about 114 ohms resistance for pickup best I can tell. And I can read minute voltage when I drag a magnet across it. Could it still be bad? Can a bad ignition switch/button cause this? (I did have the switch off to oil the choke cable)...pulling rope makes no difference though...any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated!!! It's the intermittent part that's throwing me off! 

    • By Mhatayas
      My uncle bought a Baja 250, 2006. Knew there was no spark since the get go. He don't know anything about quads so is getting me to help him try to get it running...
       
      battery is bad so I connected battery charger to it to crank it over , cranks over well , but no spark .... 
      Lights and everything work fine , but with each crank over using the e start switch , the display reads 999 888 777 666 ... Right down to 000 and repeats itself . 
       
      He managed to get a parts bike , I changed over the CDI and the coil and the stator from the parts bike and there was another black box by the voltage regulator I changed over ... I used my multimeter to confirm as much as I could works , it's hard without knowing which wires are which , and I cannot find any diagrams online for this bike ? 
       
      Do you think it could be the Killswitch? There's so many wires coming from there I don't know where to start . Also I should mention it appears the fan on the front of the bike has been taken off (the wires have been cut too ) 
       
      If this bike sparked it would run . The previous owner said he parked it one day and it just wouldn't start after.
    • By Its-always-something
      Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
       
      Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
       
       
      Any help and information greatly appreciated.
    • By Drillbit
      Hey all,
      I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
      Thanks! 
    • By kantrud97
      Hello i have a 2005 Bombardier Outlander max xt 400, i recently split the case to fix a oil leak. while in there i took out the oil pump and i cant find the torque specs for the oil pump to go back in, i tend to over tighten everything so im trying to go be the torque specs so i dont break anything.
       
      Thank you in advance
×
×
  • Create New...