Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV, UTV or SxS? Join our Community Forum!

    QUADCRAZY ATV Community and Forum are FREE to join! We keep our ATV, UTV, and SxS forums clean and user friendly. All first time posters in our forums will have to wait to have their content reviewed and approved. Once your first ten posts are approved, you will no longer need to go through a forum post approval process. To bypass the approval process with immediate access and a NO ADS experience in our ATV, SxS, and UTV forums, consider subsribing to a Premium Membership

Let's see those Honda's


BuckBilly

Recommended Posts

This is my Honda TRX 500R aka. the mutt. There are pieces from all kinds of different machines on this thing. The frame is a hame made '86 250R replicala. The rear suspension and brakes are off an '85 ATC 250R. The front end is from a 2000 400ex with Burgard +2 a-arms that have been modified to fit the shocks from a 2008 KFX 450. The steering stem is homemade using the bar clamps off a 1975 Honda XL 350. At the heart of the beast is a 1986 CR 500 motor with a 1987 long-rod crank using a 5mm cylinder spacer custom made by Cometic gasket.

500Rx.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah, it was a really good deal, it runs strong and the oil leak was just an improperly installed valve cover gasket. The idiot couln't figure out why it was leaking so much oil, so he just kept tightening the valve cover bolts because he couldn't figure out why it kept leaking, so he sold it to me because he couldn't figure it out. I took it home and when I finally got around to checking it out, it took me 30 seconds to find the leak, you could plainly see that the gasket was not seated properly in the groove.

Edited by DirtDemon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Charlesbrown
      I’m looking for a top end kit for a Yamaha. I would like to see how well the engine runs before spending $6-$7 hundred on oem. Niche has complete kits from $1-$2 hundred.  Anyone have experience with Niche or similar Chinese companies? 
    • By opnea
      Where do yall ride at in South Florida other than the MX track on Krome Ave?
    • By p5200
      I've been using Valvolene 10w 40 ATV oil but, it's like $8.00 a quart. Is that about the going rate? Or is there cheaper alternatives that would be suitable? Thanks
    • By DayBreakJim
      So my latest wheeler is a 04 Yamaha Bruin 350. It had all the wires cut from the stator and a few others and no wiring harnesses. The previous owner had them all twisted together and the bike neutral light would come on it would start (hard to start) but then would idle fine. It would die when you gave it gas so I soldered all the wires together and went on inspecting assuming it was a carb issue. Later after the carb was cleaned and adjusted I got this (see video). The bike would want to die anytime you gave it gas and there would be this horrible knocking sound but only when you gave it gas. I was worried it was the rod bearing and electrical still messed up somehow.
      Upon further inspection of the wires coming from the stator there was a W/R wired to R and a R wired to W/R. I switched them so they matched per the service manual (W/R to W/R and R to R) and the bike started right up, idled and revved out fine and the knocking noise disappeared. This was the problem the whole time. It was just really hard to tell bc the oem wires coming from the stator were so brown and dirty I could barely make out which was which.
      Where the hell did that knocking noise go? and what was causing it?? Just racking my brain trying to figure out what it was so I know for next time but I can't make sense of it... Really thought it was the rod bearing but it didn't make the noise at idle so I was questioning it...Luckily I kept searching!!

      20230725_171507.mp4    
       
       
    • By psychodad
      Have a carb off an '07 Big Bear 400 that sat a couple of years, probably more.  Friend asked me to clean it, which I did, soaking the jets and spraying out all of the ports with carb cleaner as best I could.  Replaced o-rings, needle valve & seat, tweeked float level.  Bike starts and idles well but doesn't want to pick up above 1/4 throttle.  That would appear to be in the slide needle range.  Main jet is clean, needle is clean and straight, diaphragm good.  It seems I saw (in a diagram) a port that comes into the slide needle area from the side.  This would be in the carb body between the main jet and the throat of the carb.  I would like to soak the carb in Gunk Carb Cleaner, the gallon paint can with a little basket.  Curious what Mikuni uses for bearings and seals in the throttle shaft.  I'm guessing HDPE or Delrin, or maybe brass; not sure what effect Gunk would have on the polymers.  Has anyone actually soaked a carb in Gunk??  First hand knowledge, please, and what effect, if any, on the carb.  Pulling the throttle shaft out would be a last resort.  Getting the butterfly screws out and staked back in would seem to be a nightmare.
      Thanks
      Jim
  • Similar Tagged Forum Content

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.



×
×
  • Create New...