Quantcast
Jump to content

2002 Kawasaki Prairie 400 4x4 - Clutch


jframe74

Recommended Posts

this is from kawieriders.com, on a 2002 prairie clutch question ...

VFORCEJOHN quoted "think logically, the Kawy clutch spins CLOCKWISE. (that's why on the faceplate it says loosen this way) the Polaris clutch spins COUNTER CLOCKWISE. (because they mount on the left of the motor NOT the right like the kawasaki)

NOT COMPATIBLE!!!! can't get any simpler than that. They are a direct polaris copy that is machined specific for use on kawasaki's different finned sheave and spider is threaded backwards.

but you sure can go ahead and bolt it on there. How long it works for is your best guess.

if I were you. buy a new one."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By rgeiser
      View File 2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      Submitter rgeiser Submitted 04/18/2024 Category Polaris UTV  
    • By skittle021
      So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
      To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
      Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
      Photos: 
       





    • By Charlesbrown
      I’m looking for a top end kit for a Yamaha. I would like to see how well the engine runs before spending $6-$7 hundred on oem. Niche has complete kits from $1-$2 hundred.  Anyone have experience with Niche or similar Chinese companies? 
    • By DrtyGrlKristin
      Just thought I'd start a new thread for newbies to the site!
      If you're new here, tell us who you are, where you're from and what you ride!!!
      Lets get to know each other a little better shall we?
      I'm not new to the site, obviously, but...
      I'm Kristin from Denver!!! I ride a 2008 Yamaha Rhino. She's my muddy baby!!!!!! Several aftermarket parts on her. She's good to me! We try and ride every weekend. This weekend we're off to MOAB! :woot:
    • By Drillbit
      Hey all,
      I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
      Thanks! 
×
×
  • Create New...