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Similar Forum Topics
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By p5200
I'm having trouble identifying Mark. I know where the mark is in the Stator cover. Is the T at about, the 12 o'clock position in this photo? I've got to buy another Stator cover as the one I have has a hole at the bottom of it. Due to failing eyes, I have a lot of trouble anymore. Thanks! 🙂
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By Tuzz
Bucking started about a month ago and works ok after 1/2 hour warmup. Today while working on it i discovered that if i put the ignition switch in LIGHT position it runs fine right from the start.
I'm stumped! Any idea why this could be?
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By huntindog
I am in the process of puting it back together after replacing the DPS gearbox.
The manual I have states that it will need to be flashed by a dealer. Is this still true?
Also , I have a mystery bolt That I cannot remember where it goes. M6x 70 or so. Hex head with a flat washer.I will try to attach a pic.
Pic is no go for now....Cox issue I will try again later
TIA
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By 2wdrancher
Hello everyone I have done a ton of research on doing this conversion because I hate getting stuck in the stupidest places and not being able to back out. I will be documenting my conversion here and on a couple other forums and probably post a couple videos on YouTube. So what I’ve come up with is all you need is a front axles, front propeller shaft, the final shaft inside the engine and the 4x4 front engine cover . I will list all the part numbers for everything that you need and prices from about six months ago (sorry) , you DONT need to switch out hubs, knuckles, or anything like that, and if you want differential lock lock like the foreman and Rubicon you can get a foreman Rubicon front differential and propeller shaft with the diff-lock and get a knight sure four manual actuator for it and voilà you have four-wheel-drive rancher. Input from you guys is greatly appreciated thank you for your time!
Note: I would definitely get the aftermarket HD axles because they are definitely stronger and are around the same price as oem
FINAL SHAFT
23611-HR3-A40 =$80.48
BEARING
91006-HP5-601 =$11.11
OIL SEAL
91202-HR0-F01 =$ 7.94
COVER ASSY., FR. CRANKCASE
11300-HR3-WB0 =$206.99
PROPELLER SH AFT
40400-HR3-A20 =$91.50
FINAL GEAR
41400-HR3-W50 =$714.88
FINAL CASE BRA CKET
50350-HR3-A20 =$7.40
FLANGE BOLT
95701-08016-08 =$1.49
R. SHAFT SET
44250-HR3-WB1 =$240.64
L. DRIVESHAFT
44350-HR3-WB1 =$240.64
This is all for the 2x4 - 4x4 lever that comes in stock on the ranchers. I would definitely recommend looking for parts for wheelers on marketplace, or craigslist
001
NUT, ADJUSTING
41560-HP5-600
$6.51
002
CABLE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
41570-HR3-A21
$6.56
003
SPRING, CLUTCH CABLE
41571-HP5-600
$1.95
004
CLIP, CLUTCH CABLE
41573-HP5-600
$3.23
005
GROMMET, CLUTCH CABLE
41716-HP5-600
$3.12
006
LEVER, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54030-HP5-600
$8.91
007
PILLOW BALL, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54031-HP5-601
$10.87
008
BRACKET, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54040-HP5-601
$11.19
009
SPRING, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54041-HP5-600
$1.86
010
GATE, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54050-HR3-A20
$4.55
011
GRIP, FR. FINAL CLUTCH
54321-HP5-600
$8.95
X2 012
BOLT, FLANGE (6MM)
90111-162-000
$2.54
013
NUT, SELF-LOCK (6MM)
90343-ZE6-000
$1.70
014
JOINT B, BRAKE ARM
95015-32001
$0.82
X3 015
BOLT, FLANGE (6X12)
95701-06012-00
$1.34
Or Forman 520 w diff lock
FINAL GEAR
41400-HR4-A21 =$732.49
PROPELLER SHAFT
40400-HR4-A20 = $92.54
And you definitely need the sure four locker for this
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By p5200
I've been using Valvolene 10w 40 ATV oil but, it's like $8.00 a quart. Is that about the going rate? Or is there cheaper alternatives that would be suitable? Thanks
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