footbal9584

2002 Suzuki Eiger LT-A400F Low voltage

20 posts in this topic

Ok on top of my brake issue I am also having a low voltage issue.

The atv runs great it's just the lights/fan do not work and the battery does not charge. (Have to start with recoil start).

I tested the wires that are coming from the stator for the charging part (3 black wires) and they all range from 1.3 volts to 1.8 volts it gets higher as the engine goes slower and the lights get brighter as you are killing the engine. Now when I idle it a little higher it stays steady at 1.18 volts. What is going on here is the stator bad or what else can I do for diagnosis. Thanks

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I would say that if it is really putting out less than 2volts, the Stator is bad, it should be putting out more voltage than that, are you measuring the voltage in AC? I also don't think it would run if the stator is putting out less than 2volts. Since the ATV runs ok, I would think that it is more likely that the problem is the regulator/rectifier, or just a bad battery and/or battery cables.

Edited by DirtDemon

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Ya the voltage is coming directly from the wires inside the engine, right at the first set of connectors, so that is before any voltage regulator or rectifier. I was measuring in DC volts, should it be AC? I remember reading somewhere that there are two parts to the stator one for running the ATV and one for the charging system,lights, etc. I have tried a fresh battery and it will start normally and the lights will work until the battery runs out and dies then nothing works again. So the battery and cables seem good it just is not getting charged. Is there a way to test the regulator/rectifier, and do you possibly know where it is/ what it looks like? Thanks

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The stator puts out AC current, the regulator/rectifier, is what regulates the voltage level, and the rectifier part turns the AC into DC current so it can be used by the ATV's 12 volt system. All of the output is in AC volts one output goes to the rectifier, one goes to the CDI which has its own inverter and capacitor to convert the AC voltage into a high output DC charge that is sent to the coil when the pulsar coil tells the CDI to fire.

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No, I would think somewhere around 50v would be normal. I would say that it is safe to assume that the stator is bad, but I would figure out the specs for the direct resistance and continuity tests and do perform those before you decide to replace it. I only say that because I don't want to tell you to get a new stator and have the problem be elsewhere. I also find it wierd that the machine will run off a stator that puts out voltage that low. I would recommend a repair manual, all of the tests for electrical components are in there, and there will be a troubleshooting guide that may offer some possibilities that I am overlooking.

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No, I would think somewhere around 50v would be normal. I would say that it is safe to assume that the stator is bad, but I would figure out the specs for the direct resistance and continuity tests and do perform those before you decide to replace it. I only say that because I don't want to tell you to get a new stator and have the problem be elsewhere. I also find it wierd that the machine will run off a stator that puts out voltage that low. I would recommend a repair manual, all of the tests for electrical components are in there, and there will be a troubleshooting guide that may offer some possibilities that I am overlooking.

Ya thats what I read somewhere so I went ahead and bought one off of Ebay for $150, has 1 year warranty pretty good deal. I should get it soon I already got the thing apart and the old one out so as soon as it comes in I'll put it in and let you know. Thanks for your time and info.

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Well now im lost I replaced the stator and now at idle I'm getting 9.6 - 11.2 volts and when i increase the engine speed it goes down to 3.2 and just hovers there. So it seems like it has gotten better but what else could be causing the low voltage. Im starting to think it is the regulator/rectifier since the voltage jumps so much, but could it also be the magneto(rotor part)?

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have you check the fly wheel

the old style fly wheel has glued on magnet and they get loose

it works at low rpm but at high rpm the magnets don't turn

this is a common brolem for suzuki atv and motorcyles that use glue on magnet

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have you check the fly wheel

the old style fly wheel has glued on magnet and they get loose

it works at low rpm but at high rpm the magnets don't turn

this is a common brolem for suzuki atv and motorcyles that use glue on magnet

They look good they are evenly spaced and are all stuck on there extremely tight, also the rotor will not turn without turning the engine, so I guess that rules those out, what else should I look for.

So I checked the output voltage directly from the stator and I was getting 3 AC volts with the old one now I'm getting 8 AC volts which explains the higher voltage at the battery, what it does not explain is why the difference? I'm starting to think maybe I got a bad stator.

I took some pics of the insides so you guys can see my setup.

Thanks

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Edited by footbal9584

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do you see the white lines in the middle of the magnet

sign of bad adherement at 8ac volt you have a seriuos promem

you should have about 20acv at idle and over 50 acv when rpm are incleased

are you check output with stator wires disconnected

check to see if stator is shorting to ground may have pinch wire in backside of stator

if still have problem you need to seek a real machanic

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do you see the white lines in the middle of the magnet

sign of bad adherement at 8ac volt you have a seriuos promem

you should have about 20acv at idle and over 50 acv when rpm are incleased

are you check output with stator wires disconnected

check to see if stator is shorting to ground may have pinch wire in backside of stator

if still have problem you need to seek a real machanic

So does that mean they are going to come loose soon should I put some epoxy or something around them to help them hold better? Also I am checking it with it plugged in.

EDIT:

Ok I checked it with it disconnected (had to hook up to my car for it to run) and at idle I'm getting 12 VAC and at increased engine speed I'm getting 50 - 60 VAC. I found a walk through test for the stator and regulator rectifier and I'm pretty sure it failed one of the tests for the RR. Here is the link but I will post what happened here.

http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf

I attached a copy w/ my notes so you guys can see where it failed. Thanks

fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.pdf

fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.pdf

Edited by footbal9584
did some tests

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So do you think the old stator was bad as well since it failed the resistance test? I'm figuring that maybe the stator failed and that caused the RR to fail as well, or vice versa. Either way I found one for $30 so once that comes in I'll let you guys know. Thanks again.

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Can anyone who has a suzuki eiger test their RR with the part that mine failed on? I just got one today and I'm still having the same problem and it too failed that same test. I want to return it to the Ebay seller, but I want to make sure it is really bad. Thanks Guys

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I would just go ahead and return it. Buying used electrical parts is always going to be a crapshoot, you never know what you are going to get. You are best off returning it sooner than later. If you do manage to find another machine to test it on, cool, but I wouldn't wait too long to return the part.

Figuring out problems like these can be difficult. Electronic ignition and EFI systems are the most difficult thing to diagnose. I hope you can get this problem licked.

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I would just go ahead and return it. Buying used electrical parts is always going to be a crapshoot, you never know what you are going to get. You are best off returning it sooner than later. If you do manage to find another machine to test it on, cool, but I wouldn't wait too long to return the part.

Figuring out problems like these can be difficult. Electronic ignition and EFI systems are the most difficult thing to diagnose. I hope you can get this problem licked.

Ya I guess I was hoping $30 was gong to be a good deal compared to $300 at the dealer. Sigh :(

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I would never buy parts from a local dealership, an online parts dealer will typically cost around 30% less for OEM parts. I looked up the OEM rectifier assembly at three online parts dealers.

Bike Bandit - $146

Babbits Online - $129

Service Honda - $122

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I would never buy parts from a local dealership, an online parts dealer will typically cost around 30% less for OEM parts. I looked up the OEM rectifier assembly at three online parts dealers.

Bike Bandit - $146

Babbits Online - $129

Service Honda - $122

Ya me neither they are ridiculously over priced, oh well I am sending the one back so I guess I'll be looking into getting a different one. I'll keep you guys posted. Thanks

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