1984 Honda ATC 125m - Clutch Adjustment

3 posts in this topic

i have a 1984 Honda ATC125m. the clutch it slipping. i dont know jack about these things. im told there is a clutch adjustment screw under the right case cover. which way should i turn it to for the adjustment?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Was looking for some info on the trans gears for this same bike, mine will engage and go a little bit but im talking 3mph. I adjusted the clutch but didnt ride it bc its 130am here. but just putting the bike in gear and pushing it, it seemed to have much more resistance so im hoping this solves my problem.

anyone else with input for my issue?

As for your clutch adjustment. sitting on the trike, on the right side of the case is a black rubber piece its circular. Just pull that off, its hard to rip. under that is a nut on a bolt with a flathead slot in it.

Take a 14mm socket and loosen the nut~ meaning just break it free where its hand loose.

Then use a open 14mm wrench to hold that same nut from tightening, and put a flat head through it and turn the bolt counter clock wise untill it gets stiffer. ( this is what i did, not sure if its the proper way it to turn it, it may be clockwise to get rid of clutch slack which is what your trying to do)

However i do know for a fact this is how u adjust the clutch, it has just been a while and i dont remeber which way to turn it.

To finish snug the nut back while holding the flathead to where you adjusted it to. Ride it and adjust as needed its kinda a something you have to play with and it takes 2mins to adjust when u know how to do it.

hope this helps!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By gadawg31
      I have searched all over and can't find anything on how to adjust the valves on my sons 2007 Polaris sportsman 90. Has anyone done this? Anyone have a manual for the 90 showing how to do it? I need to get this done pretty quick, since he has a ride coming very soon. Thanks.
    • By bstig60
      I have an '04 Kodiak and an '03 Foreman S. The manual for the Kodiak shows 0-.39 inch tow in, the Foreman manual shows a 3/4 - 1 1/2 inch tow out. I have noticed my tires wear like they are being torn. I have just put new tires on the front and would like to get this correct to get the longest life out of my tires while getting the best handling. It seems to me that the settings for the Kodiak and about what should be for the Foreman S to get the best wear and handling. I suspect the Foreman service manual is incorrect. Any help would be appreciated.
    • By rbstern
      1994 King Quad 300.
      I replaced the rear pads a few weeks ago. After I adjust the foot and hand lever mechanisms, I get decent stopping power and the parking brake holds fine. But after just a little bit of use, the brake controls (both foot and hand lever) seem to be out of adjustment again. I'm fairly certain I've got the fastners tight everywhere they need to be, but I can't seem to get this gremlin licked.
      Any suggestions appreciated.
    • By bstrain
      it runs like a champ but last week something screwed up. it clicks like its going in gear but it still acts like its in neutral. wont move at all. any ideas?
    • By PolarisRich
      I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
      My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
      I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
      Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
      then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
      Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
      Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
      The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
      timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
      The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
      Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
      the flywheel into the center of the hole.
      Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
      To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
      The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
      I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
      I hope this helps!
      Thanks Rich