Quantcast
Jump to content

2006 Kodiak 450 - Overheating/rapid idle/hard to shift - HELP - new owner!


Recommended Posts

Hoping for some help for a newbie's wife. Bought a used 06 Kodiak 450 with 550 miles and just over 100 hours on it. Had been used primarily for plowing snow. The unit ran well, started with no issues in zero weather, and ran very smoothly when it was tested (two different occasions). Not convinced it was cared for like my husband would, we brought it to our local auto guy whose young son can fix or service anything recreational (specialty is quads and snowmobiles). We had him change all the fluids, spark plug, new tires, and give it a general look-see to make sure all was good. There were no noted leaks, but the son said the rear differential was basically dry...two drops came out when it was drained. No evidence of any leak, but he said it had to have gone somewhere. The shop did the work, but said to watch it carefully in case a leak developed. Well, we've put only about 6 miles on it just puttering around the house and suddenly it started revving fast, and it was difficult to get into park or neutral. The hubby parked it, but cooling fan continued to run for several minutes, then shut off. The first time this happened, we called our guy and he asked how much gas was in it. Well, it was in the red zone. He said to fill it because the lack of fuel could have caused the engine to starve and suck from areas in the carb (hope I'm remembering the verbiage). Basically, the quad was empty. Our bad. Hubby filled it up last night, started it up and rode it around the yard again and we thought that was the problem. Then the same issue happened. I'm having a severe stomach ache thinking that we have purchased a really expensive problem. Before we take it back to our shop (who we have used and trusted for dozens of years), is there any obvious thing we can try? We do not have a service manual--only an owner's manual. Or is the dry differential issue that the son discovered possibly a heinous culprit? Hubby wants this for this fall's hunting season, so we have time to fix the issue...I'm just curious if it is something stupidly simple. I apologize in advance for not really knowing much, and the hubby has no idea I'm posting this! HELP PLEASE!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the rear diff might be from a bad seal or crack in the housing. is there any visible spots you can see it dripping? there would be only 4 spots it could go, thru both axles, driveshaft or fill/empty plug. idle problems might be rectified with some "sea foam" (brand name) additive to the fuel tank, double the dose on the first shot, then run specified amount thereafter ... overheating might be either from too hot of a plug (some guys run a hotter plug thru the winter as you stated it was used for plowing), or remove the muffler and start it and use it without, could be a plugged muffler (dirt/mud) ... i think this is liquid cooled? could be a worn out/bad sensor keeping your fan running too. did anyone check the valves to see if they are in spec?

i think i have a service manual for this beast, will check and post a link here ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info. I looked at the maintenance sheet they gave me and it says a NGK 7162 spark plug was installed (is that a hot one?), along with 80w/90 gear lube, 10x/30 semi synthetic oil and a 1358 oil filter. There were no signs of differential fluid leaks anywhere (they looked and we looked). Yes, this is liquid cooled. That's the only thing that wasn't changed since it was up to spec and checked out. My hubby called the shop today and we'll be bringing it in later this week. I will print out your comments and have them look into it. Like I mentioned, they are experienced with these machines, and even have their own plus a few on site for use around the shop (Grizzly 660's). It just seems odd that we literally have put under 10 miles on it and now are having issues. Thanks much for looking to see if you have a service manual too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By ResQ91
      Hi Guys!

      New member and could really use your advice. I would have to believe this has been an issue for others but a search here came up with nothing......? (Probably me not doing search correctly)
       
      I have an 87 Big Bear 350 YFM350FWT
      The OEM Mikuni BTM carb is shot and would rather replace than rebuild.
      It is no longer made and I have had good luck with NICHE carbs so I ordered a #K-CRB-0006 This was what they said was replacement when ordered. This Carb only uses 1 Throttle cable. The Slide is linked so it uses one. (OEM had 2nd cable coming through top to move slide)
       
      Problem is when I ordered a replacement Cable from NICHE (#C-CBL-0061) the Cable wire is a little short, not allowing Throttle to return all the way down to Idle position. I called NICHE and they are at a loss. Haven't gotten back to me after 2+ weeks.
       
      What would you recommend other than a carb rebuild?
      Can I just use 1 of the OEM cables (It is the right length) and snip/disconnect the other that went to top of Carb for Slide?
      Or ??
       
      Thanks in advance for any advice you have!!
       
      Dave
    • By skittle021
      So I've got a Hisun 550 that I was doing some work on that required removing the CVT and it's housing. Upon attempting to reinstall the clutch, sheaves, etc, I found that the belt no longer fits - it's far too wide. None of the parts have been replaced, they're all OEM. Exactly the same parts as what I took off a few weeks ago.
      To be more specific, my belt is 1.25in wide, but the gap between the clutch and the primary sheave is only 7/8in wide. I'll include a few photos to explain.
      Has anyone ever experienced such a bizarre problem? Any help at all would be appreciated, I've been stuck on this for a month. I'm open to just about any suggestion.
      Photos: 
       





    • By Its-always-something
      Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
       
      Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
       
       
      Any help and information greatly appreciated.
    • By Drillbit
      Hey all,
      I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
      Thanks! 
    • By Clydaho
      2022 Sector 550, 414 miles on it and the gas gauge reads empty.  I topped off the gas and it didn't change.
      There is no fuse that I could find.  No access at the gauge cluster.
      Wiring on the top of the tank looks good, properly connected.
      Could the sending unit in the tank be stuck or broken?
      Has anybody removed the tank lid?  Any tricks?  
      Any other ideas?
      Thanks for any help,
      Clyde
×
×
  • Create New...