Quantcast
Jump to content

Benefits Of Synthetic ATV Oil


Recommended Posts

  • 5 months later...
  • 4 months later...

Regular oil has viscosity modifiers which break down sooner compared to synthetic oil which is the correct viscosity to begin with. For instance 10w40 oil is really 10w oil with additives to make it act like 40 oil. Over time, the additives break down leaving you with something closer to straight 10w. On the other hand synthetic oil is 10w40 to begin with and no additives are needed. And they say it lasts longer than the additives would.

Personally I use cheap oil and change it often rather than expensive oil I don't have to change for a long time. The idea is to keep the oil clean and the only way to do that is to change it. Of course changing synthetic oil often would be better, but much more expensive.

The slickness of oil is irrelevant. The viscosity is important. The oil must keep the bearings suspended or you'll have metal to metal contact. Cam bearings come to mind. If the oil is too thin, it won't hold the cam off the bearing. If the oil is too thick, the oil pump can't pump it up to the cam fast enough. So it doesn't matter how slick it is, its being the correct viscosity that matters. Being too slick will only mess up your wet-clutch and make it slip more.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Regular oil has viscosity modifiers which break down sooner compared to synthetic oil which is the correct viscosity to begin with. For instance 10w40 oil is really 10w oil with additives to make it act like 40 oil. Over time, the additives break down leaving you with something closer to straight 10w. On the other hand synthetic oil is 10w40 to begin with and no additives are needed. And they say it lasts longer than the additives would.

Personally I use cheap oil and change it often rather than expensive oil I don't have to change for a long time. The idea is to keep the oil clean and the only way to do that is to change it. Of course changing synthetic oil often would be better, but much more expensive.

The slickness of oil is irrelevant. The viscosity is important. The oil must keep the bearings suspended or you'll have metal to metal contact. Cam bearings come to mind. If the oil is too thin, it won't hold the cam off the bearing. If the oil is too thick, the oil pump can't pump it up to the cam fast enough. So it doesn't matter how slick it is, its being the correct viscosity that matters. Being too slick will only mess up your wet-clutch and make it slip more.

Those are some really good points. I would say to at least change your oil every spring no matter how much you ride.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 years later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By Mhatayas
      What should I do about this , bad oil leak where the filter cover bolts on . Can I use some gasket maker 

    • By BruceG
      Hi guys. I have a problem where the quad will start and run well for about 5 minutes and then it dies. On inspection the airbox has oil in it (quite a lot). The oil is pumping through the cylinder head breather hose. This problem first happened suddenly. I have since done the top end including, piston, gaskets, rings and valves. I have also done the carb (not that I thought that this was the problem). The compression seems normal. The only thing that I can think of, is that I did not grind the valves well enough. Anyone experienced this? If so, how did you fix it? Any other thoughts?
    • By hardcastle
      My friends KQ 300 starts fine and runs, as soon as you put it in gear and try to accelerate its bucks and farts like crazy, not moving... I cleaned carb and it worked good for 1 day... now back to same problem.... could it be such as a bent valve????
    • By Tuzz
      Bucking started about a month ago and works ok after 1/2 hour warmup.  Today while working on it i discovered that if i put the ignition switch in LIGHT position it runs fine right from the start.
      I'm stumped!  Any idea why this could be?  

    • By DarkRider
      This is something I'm extremely curious about. Has anyone ever attempted to buy a quad (or any other vehicle) from an impound lot? I've always wondered if this could be a bargain, or a waste of time. Google searches do turn up some helpful results. Looks like the state of NJ holds auctions online which I'd be a bit hesitant about.
       
      My online searches haven't really turned up any results of anyone buying an ATV this way. I'd be really curious if anyone tried this, or knows someone who has. I've actually found a couple pages with online auctions for my state, but none had ATVs.
×
×
  • Create New...