Quantcast
Jump to content

Recommended Posts

ok so ive been talkin to some ppl with these rev boxs and they say its a quick, easy, and worth buying upgrade.

heres the one im thinkin about buyin...

eBay Motors: AMR STAGE 2 REV BOX HONDA TRX 400EX IGNITION 400 CDI (item 370064886695 end time Aug-28-08 16:57:54 PDT)

i was talkin to my buddy about it and he said it would eventually blow the engine(i kno bullshitt right?). i said i wouldnt think so, unless i held it wide open for a prolonged amount of time. but my question is, could this rev box possibly blow my engine? im tryin to make my quad as fast as possible without taking away the 400ex's well known reliability.

and another question wat stage should i get? stage 2 or 3? remeber my quad is stock

thanks alot guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok so ive been talkin to some ppl with these rev boxs and they say its a quick, easy, and worth buying upgrade.

heres the one im thinkin about buyin...

eBay Motors: AMR STAGE 2 REV BOX HONDA TRX 400EX IGNITION 400 CDI (item 370064886695 end time Aug-28-08 16:57:54 PDT)

i was talkin to my buddy about it and he said it would eventually blow the engine(i kno bullshitt right?). i said i wouldnt think so, unless i held it wide open for a prolonged amount of time. but my question is, could this rev box possibly blow my engine? im tryin to make my quad as fast as possible without taking away the 400ex's well known reliability.

and another question wat stage should i get? stage 2 or 3? remeber my quad is stock

thanks alot guys

i really dont see how it can blow your engine.....:no:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, it won't. If you get the stage 3, possibly. Just for comparison, On the Rhino the stage 2 increases from the stock 6800RPMs to 7800RPMs. The Stage 3 raises it to 9000. With stock internals you that is too high of reving. The stage 2 SHOULDN'T give you any problems. Stage 3 is for people that have crazy after markets done inside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, it won't. If you get the stage 3, possibly. Just for comparison, On the Rhino the stage 2 increases from the stock 6800RPMs to 7800RPMs. The Stage 3 raises it to 9000. With stock internals you that is too high of reving. The stage 2 SHOULDN'T give you any problems. Stage 3 is for people that have crazy after markets done inside.

wow 9000 rpms would blow my engine in a flash:yes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
I have a big gun Rev Box in my raptor. Ya it does a fair amount of pep to your ride. Ya its quick and easy to install. It took me about 10 seconds to install, make sure that yours is reaady to snap in and you don't have to mess with any wires unless you are comfortable with that kind of stuff...

Good advise, most of the CDI boxes are plug and play.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a big gun Rev Box in my raptor. Ya it does a fair amount of pep to your ride. Ya its quick and easy to install. It took me about 10 seconds to install, make sure that yours is reaady to snap in and you don't have to mess with any wires unless you are comfortable with that kind of stuff...

is it a 350/660/700

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By rgeiser
      View File 2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      2003 Polaris Ranger 400-500 service manual
      Submitter rgeiser Submitted 04/18/2024 Category Polaris UTV  
    • By Its-always-something
      Have a 1998 AC 300 2x4, Just installed a new carburetor. Engine starts easy but the choke RPMs are very hi and take along time (5-10 mins when cold out). After engine has warmed up choke releases and it idles and runs fine., It does no have an electric choke. The choke lever is never used and it seems like an auto choke? Long story short, how can I lower the choke rpm levels?
       
      Also, carb came with a spare145 jet, not 100% sure what is installed. Could this impact choke RPMs?
       
       
      Any help and information greatly appreciated.
    • By Admin
      View File 2006-2011 Honda Rincon TRX 680 FA/FGA service manual
      2006-2011 Honda Rincon TRX 680 FA/FGA service manual
      Submitter Admin Submitted 04/09/2024 Category Honda ATV  
    • By Tuzz
      Bucking started about a month ago and works ok after 1/2 hour warmup.  Today while working on it i discovered that if i put the ignition switch in LIGHT position it runs fine right from the start.
      I'm stumped!  Any idea why this could be?  

    • By Drillbit
      Hey all,
      I need some input on a problem I'm having with my Kodiak 400 that keeps fouling plugs. First off, I've done a lot of work to this thing, most of it all in good fun. Brake work, cv joints, u joints, carb kit, checked valve lash, compression good, changed all fluids, etc... My problem is it keeps fouling plugs very quickly. I can put a new (manual recommended plug) in and it starts right up, runs great, idles great, picks up good. Doesn't stutter at all. I ride it for 1/2 a mile, it cuts off and won't start back up. I let it sit overnight thinking maybe it got to hot. Try to start it the next day, nothing. Put a new plug in, fires right up, runs great for another 1/2 mile or so, dead. The plugs come out and look carbon fouled with dry black soot on them. I don't know if this is a fuel/air mixture problem or a ignition problem. A couple of things that I noticed is I never need to pull the choke out to start it. Also, when it starts it automatically idles high like an automatic choke would do, then it comes back down to a good idle. Also I noticed that the air/fuel mixture needle valve screw does nothing when I adjust it in or out. I can screw it all the way closed and the motor still runs and idles good. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I'm almost leaning to a ignition breaking down the plugs??
      Thanks! 
×
×
  • Create New...