IndyKWG

There is a band that fits around the front hub. There is a bolt if you look up from the bottom side about an inch or two up that you have to get to through a hole in the bottom. If you loosen that then put a screw driver or small punch through the front sprocket and rotate everything forward it will tighten the chain. No big deal when you know where to look. I agree completely with manuals, they can be priceless and for my own stuff I always buy them. Howerver this quad is a familiy members I got lucky enough to work on for free so I'll be darned if I'm buying the manual to fix that! Hope this helps someone esle sometime.

Hi, Has anyone changed the chain and sprockets on an older Polaris that uses Chains to drive the front axle? I bought all of this in a kit which included the rear chain and sprockets and I have those replaced. It looks like the right front axle may have to come out to replace the sprocket? Just wanting to know what I am getting into before I start taking it apart. Any time estimates or tips would be appreciated.

Might try a spray bottle when things are dry too on your electrical connections you suspect. Might help track things down as to what is getting wet and causing the problem

99 polaris xplorer 400L

Hi all, I took my driven clutch appart because it would not open and close with rmp increase and decrease. The buttons are bad and i will replace those. It came appart fast and I am unsure what holes the srping was in. There is a chart in the book that lists from soft to hard for the settings but was curious if anyone has played with these settings and how much of a difference it has made?

Definately change the spark plug. Its the cheapest and fastest fix. If that dosen't get it post back. Could be a bare spot on the coil wire shorting out or the wires to the coil shorting as the ride gets bumpier at higher speeds.

Mandy, your first post says if your above 2nd gear and have it "full Throttle" it misses out. Unless it has an after market CDI box it will have a rev limiter to keep it from over reving. If you shift to a higher gear but run half to 3/4 throttle how does it run?

I'm not too familiar with that model but you might try setting the the parking brake if it has one or pulling in the clutch if it has a manual clutch. By using the screw driver your probably bypassing all the saftey features it has.

I think a lot depends on what type of riding you do. If you are talking mostly trail riding and you're brother in law is average size and weight and same skill level then he should be able to keep up fairly well. I have a 660 and had a warrior which is what the raptor 350 used to be. I thought it handled well on the trails and was a very dependable atv. However, if your talking track or open fast paced riding the 450's and banshee should run off and leave the 350 raptor.

Got it. There is an adjustable post between the back of the engine and the transmission on the left side under the back clutch cover that keeps the engine from torquing back when you give it the gas. When I had put it all back together i did not adjust this out to keep the engine in line. Now its all solid and works like a champ. Thanks for the replies on this thread.

OH YEAH!, sorry, Yes the lack of oil in the counter balance was the reason I got this quad for such a cheap price. The gears were toast and cost me a fortune. I check that regularly now, not a real easy task but at least every other ride. The clutch, I will check the motor mounts this weekend and take your advise and try to rebuild the current one. I take it you have done this? I found a video on the internet that shows taking one appart with a few home made helper tools. However, the video didn't explain what wear points to look for or give a "parts list" of stuff to replace if your pulling one appart. What would you replace when rebuilding one?

Counterbalancer oil? Don't mean to sound totally stupid but where is it? I guess by this you can take the answer to that to be a no lol.

Its a 98 xplorer 400L. I'll check all the mounts and post back. I'd still be curious on opinions of clutch rebuilds vs replace.

Hello, I am having an issue with my 400 xplorer. It will only top out about 25mph. I suspected the belt was slipping so I replaced it. After a full day of riding about 15 to 20 we headed down the road to return home and the belt burnt in to. I had checked allignment and that seemed OK as well. So now I am looking at clutches starting with the primary because it seems to have the most moving parts. First I priced a new one and found a comet clutch for $299. Then I priced a rebuild kit for the current clutch and found one for $199. That seemed high so I priced the pieces I thought would need replaced at bike bandit including the buttons, the spring, and a bushing. Has anyone rebuilt there primary and had any luck? Is there any way to test it before spending any money? I ran the engine with the cover off just to see what i could see. The clutch moves in and out but the whole engine moves too as the rpm increase the engine tourques toward the rear of the machine. Is that natural or could that be part of the problem? I'm looking for someone that has had these issues to give me a little advise. The things runs perfect so if I can figure this out Im in good shape. Thanks Kevin