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Hello everyone, did a search and not successful. Purchased new 2017 Sportsman 570 sp and my power steering is not working. Seems to have a mind of it's own. Works then it doesn't. Dealer says there's not a fix. Thought it was just me and it being a brand new machine with 4 hours on it. Dealership said it's this model only ? Not sure what a person in this spot is suppose to do and wondering are your thoughts mite be. Thanks
By Frank Angerano
So here’s a question. I have seen a few members that have recently purchased a used bike. Also a HUGE amount of so called new members who have purchased a used bike and have come here “just here for a manual”.
Some have been disappointed with the bikes and or knew they were getting a broken bike with some mechanical experience thinking hey I can fix it. So here’s my take on buying a used bike. Anyone who has followed some of mine and other members posts about what to look for when buying a used bike here’s a few pointers on what to look for.
1. I always check the oil and look for moisture, metal shavings and color.
2. Feel the compression or take a compression tester with you.
3. Check for spark (if the bikes not running)
4. Take a small jumper pack to verify that the starter cycle works and the bike cranks.
5. Look for bent or cracked frame/welding that was done on the frame from maybe a wreck.
5. Mismatch plastics by looking under neath.
7. Bolts on the engine/frame that look like they are stripped from someone taking the bike apart.
8. Any kind of scilicone or gasket adhesive that was used on a cover plate or engine seem where the engine was taken apart.
9. Patches on the exhaust pipes with sheet metal or jb weld patch material.
10. Wiring messes on the harness like bundles of tape where the harness was opened up and taped up for an after market device or just plain butchered up.
11. Put the bike in gear (running or not) and roll the bike back and forth to see that the gears work and you feel resistance like the engine is trying to spin while pushing it forward as if you were push starting it
12. I keep a vin# decoder website on my phone as a favorite to double check the year of the bike .
All though nothing is fool proof these tips will help you along while buying a used bike. Not only that but it will help you negotiate a fair price for a bike that may have one of the above problems.
I have minimized this entire process down to about 15 mins. I buy all the time so I don’t expect you to do the same or have a compression tester etc but use some of these tips when buying and go into the purchase with confidence!
I would like to hear anyone else that has any input on buying a bike and what to look for!
got that 220 I'm 'servicing'.......... well it turned into a guts and oil job.... I cleaned the carb and it wont idle cold, but idles too fast when warm. also misfires and burns rich cold (white smoke out of the exhaust) I'm going to order a new carb since the old one is leaking and beat up (some one was tinkering) I'm wondering about the valve clearance and timing...? Maybe a factor? What should the clearance be on the valves? How should I check the timing on this bike? (this is a mid 90s bayou 220 2x4)
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i have a 2000 suzuki king quad lt-f300f that i picked up as a project bike. it didnt run well when it was parked outside 5 years ago. it cranked after putting fresh gas - but would not run below half throttle, i took apart the carb, cleaned debris, and re-assembled. i suspect that the pilot needle is sheared off - it never protrudes into the throttle body through the pinhole. now to get the bike to ALMOST idle, the throttle idle adjustment knob is all the way up/in. the pilot needle is turned almost all the way in/up (if i understand correct, it should nominally be out 2 1/4 turns or so). and like i said, it will ALMOST idle. floods easily, rides rough.
wanted to hear from those more experienced than me with suzukis - and im self-taught atv repair, so dont laugh too hard if my verbiage/part names is way off.
facing the driver's side of the bike [US] there are three hoses on this side of the carb. without a service manual or way of knowing what was messed up before i got it, i think i have them right: front hose as a vacuum to the petcock, middle hose as vacuum to the fuel pump, rear hose as fuel line from the fuel pump. running the bike in prime position results in flooding even while riding. with all hoses disconnected from the carb, fuel slowly drips from the vacuum line connected to the petcock.
so just my speculation is that the diaphragm in the petcock is split, and the pilot needle is broke off - causing my inability to not quite idle and the rough ride. this suzuki is hoses and cables everywhere compared to the honda ranchers and yamaha warriors i am used to. I would like to have a plan rather than: replace everything at once.
is my speculation on the right track, or could something else be at play? say, if the compression was non-existent, would that cause non-idling? i am all ears, look forward to the input.
I traded my dirt bike for a 2000 arctic cat 500 semi automatic. when i went to go pick it up the guy said it didn't get spark, so i thought it was going to be something simple like a coil. well it wasn't. first thing i did was take all the plastics off to get easy asses to every thing. so i bought a brand new battery for it seeing if it got power, it didn't. the dash wouldn't light up neither would the lights, so then i tried to see if the starter worked it didn't so i jumped the solenoid and the starter started turning over the motor. so i bought a new starter solenoid, when i installed it the electric start still wouldn't work , so i bought a new kill switch and starter switch that goes on the handle bars, when i installed it, the electric start still wouldn't work. so then i went to see if i could get spark by pull starting it, i didn't get any spark, so i bought a new spark plug, and guess what, still no spark, so then i bought a new coil for it to see if that would fix it. so i installed the new coil and guess what no spark still and still no power to the dash. so to sum it up i'm not getting any power any where to the four wheeler. so i cleaned all the leads and plugs and still nothing. so then yesterday i took the wiring apart to see if their was any frayed wires, and no their wasn't. does any one have any ideas what this could be i'm up for anything. also if any one knows how to bypass all the wiring just to get it to start i open to that to, or if someone knows where i can get a wiring diagram.
i have recently purchased a yamaha kodiak ultramatic 400cc. it is used and sat outside for a long time. i have done a lot of work on it and got it to run sort of. when i try to start it, it will start and run for a little bit then it will die, the time it runs varies. it has a new cdi, spark plug, and stator. most of the time it wont even start it just cranks over. there was one time that it started up right away and ran perfectly but the next time i tryed it wouldnt start. before that one time every time it started and ran it had a popping sound. i cant figure out why it wont run. any help would be muchly appreciated! thanks!
By Guest Fox300exchic
The Hop-Up: You may be saying to yourself, “that’s a chick bike,” and you’re right. But honestly, it’s so much more than that. It’s one badass bike. http://www.quadmagazine.com/quad/features/article/0,24942,1587044,00.html
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