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Hey guys, new here, but haven't found ANY answer to my specific problem on a Suzuki dedicated ATV forum, so here's to hoping!
I acquired a 95' Quadrunner 250, 4x4, (LT4WD) for practically nothing with no spark. The PO had tossed in a used stator which didn't fix the problem... so I went all routes (though cheaply) to narrow down the initial problem of no spark.
Plug, coil, CDI (caltric) and stator w/pickup (caltric) were purchased and installed. And it RAN, but bogged horribly and would not rev past 1/4 throttle.
I checked fuel flow, vacuum lines, all the normal stuff, no issues. I decided to check the valves and cam... well, there was one problem. The cam was 1mm under the lowest spec in the manual. So, in-came a new cam, Stage 1 Hotcams... also threw in a new set of shindy valves, lapped them, replaced the valve seals, and the timing chain.
Back together again (w/stock airbox and new oiled filter). Now it idles even better, still boggs at 1/4 throttle, but will rev past it if you hold the throttle open for a second. Ahaha... success!
So I was able to ride it above 1/4 throttle once I had momentum... could shift through the gears, all was good as long as I kept it over 1/2 throttle. Took a long enough ride to break in the cam properly at least so I won't have to worry about that.
Now, I start fiddling with the carb. It's clean as a whistle, stock, with stock jets (new replacement Mikuni jets). Same problem.
I start thinking, maybe this is fuel related and the bike is having an issue transitioning from idle jet to main jet... so I LOWER the needle by raising the clip 1 spot. Now it revvs up in neutral with no bog, but it boggs about the same trying to ride it. So I move the needle down again with the clip on the top slot. Better, but still has a bit of bog at 1/4 throttle.
The last bit of advice I got was to ditch the CV carb... so I sprung for a brand new Mikuni VM30-83 round-slide. Bolted it up, blew into the vacuum tube to fill it with fuel (no vacuum port on this one) and she fired right up... but there is still a bit of bog, it's just masked by the fact that I'm not waiting for the vacuum diaphragm to open.
So I feel like each little step brings me closer, but not perfect. I'm now wondering if this is still in-fact a carb tuning issue (I have some jets I can fiddle with and maybe lean-out the idle jet a little.) OR if the cheap-a** Caltric Stator/Pickup is what's causing these issues.
I have a 95' KingQuad with 400 miles on it... like new.. runs like a top... I've tried both the stock QR and the Caltric CDI boxes on it, and it revvs up and runs like a champ.
The only unknowns between the two systems are the carb, and the stator/pickup. My next step in troubleshooting is to rip apart the King Quad and test it's CDI on the Quadrunner... but considering there is no change to how it runs I doubt it will lead to a solution.
HOWEVER... I tried the stock CDI just recently after running the Caltric this whole time, and the bike runs like garbage. Hardly idles, and won't rev up at all. So, that is my one smoking gun telling me that it's either the pickup coil or the stator itself.
Has anyone had a problem even CLOSE to this? I can't image the carb would be causing this many issues, especially going to 2 different ones, both with stock jetting to OEM, and exhibiting the identical symptoms... the only change is when different CDI's are plugged in, or when the needle valve leans out the mixture.
Also, I checked the piston, rings and bore when I had it apart and they're like-new... no scoring, rings are loose, cylinder is still round and has honing marks still int he bore. Stock piston, stock bore size and it has 160psi compression. Battery is brand new, and I've tried 3 different R/R's, none of which change any symptoms, but slightly vary the charging voltage by .2-.5 of a volt depending on which unit. Also tried a new coil which changed nothing.
ANY help would be appreciated. Too much invested to not get it running right.
Can anyone point me to a good set of instructions for changing front diff oil on a 1987 Suzuki LT4WD? I can almost guess which bolts are drain & fill... but I've been wrong before... 😆
I found some partial posts on other forums and they linked out to dead images and whatnot. Any help appreciated.
This thing is running pretty good, got the front brakes back to life, electric start works fine, seat cover fixed up, plastics stitched back together...
BEFORE (last week):
By Ed Zeppeli
I picked up this quad after the previous owner couldn't get it going.
The issue is that I can't get it to fire at idle or at all.
- replaced plug. Decent blue spark. Also tested with spark tester inline.
- rebuilt the carb. PO had already bypassed vacuum lines from petcock. There's fuel at the cylinder
- Checked compression with new gauge. reads 190 psi
- cleaned all contacts I could access.
- am currently jumping with car battery. Solenoid jumpered.
- checked cam timing at TDC and adjusted valve lash
- put gas directly into cylinder to see if it will fire at least momentarily
Motor turns over well. Plug gets wet.
Motor may fire once or twice but smokes through exhaust a bit as if it's trying to fire or combusting.
This leads me to suspect timing. As mentioned I checked the flywheel mark versus cam marks. Perhaps someone has been in there before because I can't find a 'T' on the flywheel but there is a very visible paint mark which aligns with TDC position on piston. Possibly a slipped flywheel/woodruff?
Is it possible that if it had seen previous repairs, that the timing could still be off? I'm reluctant to dig into the flywheel/stator area if there's something else I could have missed but all signs point me to that area. Would a bad CDI cause spark timing to be off?
Anywhere else to diagnose incorrect spark timing?
I've scoured these forums and elsewhere but I'm posting just in case there's something I've overlooked up until now.
Thanks very much for reading!
these are what i have in my collection ... always looking for more
1985 - 1990 Suzuki LT230 & LT250 Service Manual
1987 - 1998 Suzuki Quad Runner 250 & King Quad 280 Service Manual
1987 - 2006 Suzuki LT80 Service Manual
1987 Suzuki LT500R Quadzilla Service Manual
1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Porting Instruction
1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Quadracer Service Manual
1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Tuning Guide Instruction
1999 - 2004 Suzuki King Quad 300 Service Manual
2002 - 2007 Suzuki 500LTA Service Manual
2002 - 2009 Suzuki LTF250 Ozark Service Manual
2003 Suzuki LTZ400 Service Manual
2006 Suzuki 50LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
2004 Suzuki 250LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
2005 Suzuki LTA700 King Quad Service Manual
2007 Suzuki 90LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
2008 Suzuki 400FLTF King Quad Service Manual
2008 Suzuki 750 King Quad Service Manual
2009 Suzuki 400LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
ALSO CHECK SUZUKI ATV SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOADS
By Scott Matthews
Just picked up a 1989 Big Bear 350 for $250 CAD. Bike was running but lost crank and spark. They've installed a new coil, a couple relays, and installed a Ford starter solenoid in place of the original. Now it cranks but has no spark so they sold it to me. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this bike so I can test some wiring. Also any ideas as to direction to head would be nice. Lots of things have been hacked together so I know it probably wont be to easy. The ignition switch was replaced with a toggle switch, I already mentioned the Ford solenoid which 1 of the small wires was not re-installed, and a diode or something was removed from the oil temp sensor wire. I'm sure I will find more so a diagram would be amazing.
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By Guest Fox300exchic
Here's a web site for those of you who might need a manual on your quad. Not all are listed but some are. Its pretty cheap too. You can download it.http://www.shopmanualdownloads.com/results.php?style=A.T.V.
My non-running '08 450 hour 1450 mile 450 grizzly investment paid off! I paid a buck per cc...yup, $450.
It smoked mosquito-fogger bad, was missing starter solenoid, a fuse, racks and a few small plastics, needed a rear ujoint, a brake caliper and lever. Popped in the fuse, plugged in starter solenoid and a carb clean out came next. After an oil change, seafoam treatment, and reseating rings by very hard and hot riding towing a 5' disc for two hours, it completely stopped it's bad habit! Changed oil and filter again (went synthetic), and have put a hundred hours of trail-busting and mountain climbing, everything is working perfectly, and not using any oil.
My current task is to repair the winch, if possible. It was crammed jam-packed full of dust, rust, and mud.
I disassembled it, cleaned it completely, found nothing overtly appearing broken, but it feels like the knob for freewheel/engage is "sticky".
I mean, REALLY sticky-the Mitsubishoid rhombus-triad looking mechanism appears to not release, unless I pull or tap on it.
I've not yet reassembled it, want to find out if the disengage action is normally this "sticky".
Anyone have experience with this? How about a schematic, or manual?
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