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Txbigbear

Big Bear 350 been sitting for 10 years - I can't get it into neutral

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Helping my Father-in-Law get his 1987 (I think) Big Bear 350 running so he can sell it. I can't get it into neutral (or don't know how) so I can pressure wash it before starting repairs. See photo. Clutch is hard to operate. I clicked down on the shift pedal to what I think is 1st then pulled up one click, but it's still in gear. The brake drum is stuck and the electrical system needs tracing out.

How can I get it in neutral or just get the wheels rolling?

Big Bear 350.jpg

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Don't force into gear or neutral. Buy a couple cans of PB blaster nd start spraying everything that moves. Something is seized-up you have to trace it down. The trans will probably shift into neutral by rocking the bolt on engine sprocket or is it a shaft drive? Spray the sparkplug and let sit awhile, then remove ( carefully ) and spray in motor liberally. Spray every nut and bolt. Keep us posted. 

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I  believe the   Big Bear  clutch  is centrifugal. The   levers  on the  hand grips  both  operate the  brakes  if I  am  not  mistaken.  Try  rocking the  quad  back and forth while  pressing  down  on the  shift lever to  see if it  will  shift  down  and into  neutral.  Most foot operated   gear  shifts  have  neutral  as the   first position  and  to  get  reverse, you press a button  or  pull  a   button /  lever to  press the  gear  shift  into  reverse,  below neutral.

I  found a  pdf    for the  350  Big Bear...  neutral  is   at the  bottom, reverse  is below that  after  you   activate the  reverse knob.

This  manual  shows for the  1999  model ,  but it  should be the same  trans and shift pattern  for the  '87

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/assets/service/manuals/1999/Lit-11626-12-49_325.pdf

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Thanks all for the advice and the manual. I got some PB blaster and will spray liberally. My 1st step is to get it to my garage from my Father-in-Law's - 60 miles. It will be tricky getting it on a trailer since brake drums are frozen and if I can't get it into neutral. Once in the garage, I can work on in an enclosed area.

 

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Sounds like a fun little project and you can take the time on it. Basically it's going to be a huge learning process. i would definitely invest in a manual,  saves a lot of headaches. Go on eBay and look up 87 Yamaha Big Bear and see what parts you may need. 

Edited by sparkplug
More info

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I am chiming in to subscribe to this topic, very interested to see how this comes along for you! Post some pics on the progress. :D

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Will do. I'm in process of getting the ATV to my garage where I can work on it during the winter. Brakes are locked up and can't get tranny into neutral. This Sunday, I've got some guys that will help me get it onto a trailer for transport. In the meantime, I've got the VIN as JY43HNAC3KC002732 which decodes as a 1989 model. From this, I'll order a manual and get to troubleshooting the brake and neutral problem.

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I need advice - how can I turn the engine over to make sure its not seized up? I got the quad (VIN says it a 1989) to my garage and pressure washed it. I bought a HF 8" puller and finally got the stuck brake drum off. What did the trick was I unbolted the brake cylinders from the rear. This allowed the shoes to somewhat collapse on the inside and release the drum. I'm hoping I don't need new cylinders - $120 each - yikes. Now I'm struggling with getting a rear brake rotor off the splined axle. I've got it soaking in PB Blaster and I'm applying as much pull as I dare with the puller. Every now and then I bang on it to get the blaster in deeper. I plan to heat it up but all I've got is a propane torch. I did find this interesting research that you guys may already know about. It rates the various penetrants on how much torque was required to break a rusted bolt free.

ITEM                    Force in ft/lbs
No Penetrant.......... 516 pounds
WD-40................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ....... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .............. 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix*.... 53 pounds

I've ordered an owner's manual but it hasn't gotten here yet. I cant find a clutch anywhere on the machine. It must not have one.

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I just uploaded one we had. It's now in our new downloads section.

 

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3 hours ago, Txbigbear said:

 Now I'm struggling with getting a rear brake rotor off the splined axle. I've got it soaking in PB Blaster and I'm applying as much pull as I dare with the puller. Every now and then I bang on it to get the blaster in deeper. I plan to heat it up but all I've got is a propane torch.

Be  careful with your  heating of the  brake rotor.. The  heat you can get  with your propane torch far exceeds what   would take the temper  out of both the rotor and the  axle.  You  shouldn't heat them  up  much over 200 degrees F.  Heat  the  hub  of the rotor evenly all around (or as far around as you  can) and  use the   spit test to  gauge the temperature.  Stop  heating  when  spit  on a finger starts to  sizzle when  you  briefly  touch it.  You  could  use a  temperature  probe  for  a  VOM  meter  if you  have  one  or there  are special "tempil sticks"  you  can  buy  to indicate  when  a desired   temperature is reached,  but  they  are relatively  expensive, not easily  bought.  Neither  the  use of a  probe  or the tempil sticks are really   necessary  for what you want.

It also  should go  without saying to  be careful with the open  flame  when you  have been  using solvents to  try to  free up   parts.  Have  a  fire extinguisher  handy.


 

I've ordered an owner's manual but it hasn't gotten here yet. I cant find a clutch anywhere on the machine. It must not have one.

 

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