Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Scoopeddad

1994 Honda trx 300 some carb issues

Recommended Posts

So I have a 1994 Honda trx300 and I still am having some carb issues. I cleaned the carb and installed a new carb kit. Starts great, idles great, but when in 3rd it seems to pulsate. Not steady power. Any ideas on the setting the setting for the carb? I put a new spark plug in and the old one did seem pretty dark and sooty. I checked the gap on new one and installed. Went for a ride and it didn't seem any different. Any suggestions would be great..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Try  some small  adjustments towards   lean  on the  air screws. It sounds like it  may  be running  a  little  on the rich  side .

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks. I just took the carb apart again and washed it and blew out all the Chambers with some air. Now I just need to take it for a ride. Thanks again for all the info.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do you have a hand vacuum pump, I always like to check mine after a rebuild and make sure they can hold atleast 5 lbs of vacuum 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Check the valves. I bet they are too tight. Honda’s are bad about the valves tightening up over time. Set a tiny bit on the loose side and I bet it will help. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Answers here all over the board.

The pilot (not air) adjustment screw on the bottom will not affect any part of the throttle range other than 0 to @ 5 %. Beyond that throttle position, the slide cut, needle and needle jet come into play (3 to 85 %). Then the main jet is the only metering system in play (70 to 100%).

Valve adjustment problems are not limited to any operating range...usually hard or no-start issues OR excessive valve noise.

You use a pressure tester to check the needle and seat in the carb...hook hose to where the fuel line attaches and pressurize to 3 or 4 psi. This is the most critical thing in carb rebuild. Without a float system that maintains the fuel level in the bowl correctly, you're wasting your time with any other metering circuit. The seat is cast into the carb body on this unit. It has to be chemically cleaned and polished before you can expect a good needle to seal.

That all said, I think I'd focus on the intake/carb system. Be sure the air filter is correctly mounted and serviced. If using a K&N filter, replace it with a correctly serviced oiled foam unit. make certain that the air box is intact and the top is secured. 300's use a CV carb that has to have a certain amount of vacuum created on the back side of the carb in order for the slide to lift correctly. Also, the 300's have a small pump attached to the bowl. Check the diaphragm. When bad they run rich. Although I use carb kits often, I use no more of the parts in them than needed. I find OEM parts to be more precise (but expensive). I rarely use the jet needle or needle jet in the kits as they can be FAR off from the original and give hard-to-diagnose mid-throttle problems.

There could be other issues, but given the description of your problem, this is where I'd start. I'm curious to know the outcome. Keep us informed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/2/2017 at 8:17 AM, Scoopeddad said:

So I have a 1994 Honda trx300 and I still am having some carb issues. I cleaned the carb and installed a new carb kit. Starts great, idles great, but when in 3rd it seems to pulsate. Not steady power. Any ideas on the setting the setting for the carb? I put a new spark plug in and the old one did seem pretty dark and sooty. I checked the gap on new one and installed. Went for a ride and it didn't seem any different. Any suggestions would be great..

main jet needle may need moved a position. is it snorkeled?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Tahj
      I bought a 2003 Recon from a kid that beat it – all plastics cracked etc, When I replaced the rear brake the inside – axle, rear oil  - were clean and in good shape, so I think Honda won the kid vs quad battle.
      It shifts a little clunky (I made the adjustment) and after riding for a while I get a hot friction material smell I wonder if he used the wrong oil and if any damage was done.
    • By MarkinAR
      Couple of quick points:
      1. the Odyssey, or FL350R. This was 30 years ahead of it's time.  Fast as greased owl crap, reliable, stupid fun.  Never took off.  Fast forward to the RAZR which was just replicating the FL350R.  What would Honda have done with it if it took off in '85?
      2. Everything about the ATC.  Reliable, good power for small displacement, easy to work on, simple front to back, still running 30 years later.  My son's 185s is 36 years old and outran a 400 Big Bear the other day until it ran out of gearing and the Big Bear caught it around 50 mph.  I can dig a 110 out of the weeds and as long as it has a little compression, I'll make it run in 2 days for about $20.  Can't do that with a Yamaha 225.
      3, 1981 250R.  What happens if you stick a CR250 2 stroke in a trike?  Yeah, a death machine.  Then by '85 the 250R had a 6 speed and would do 70 from the factory.  Death Machine +2.  The 250R gave birth to the trike racing circuit.
      4. The ATC 70.  Small, quiet and reliable.  Just never took off.  Gave birth to the entire small displacement chinese quad market.
      5. 82 200ES - first Big Red.  The BR single handedly created the UTV market as we see it today in the Ranger, Mule, etc.
      6. The ENTIRE chinese quad market in front of us today came from expired Honda patents from the 80's.
      7. 300 fourtrax.  By far the most coveted 4x4 in the market right now, absolutely indestructible.  Pick one up a couple of years old, stick massive wheels and tires on it, and you have a mud machine.  Kinda like the Polaris or Can Am...but reliable.  And cheap.
      To be fair, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawa, all picked their game up along the way and make good ATV's.  I'll leave the Polaris/CanAm discussion for another day.  While Polaris gave birth to the automatic, the reliability issues of both still exist today.  While great ATV's, I don't consider them any more than specialty machines.
       
      FIGHT ME.
      or debate...whichever is easier.
    • By Dra O
      posted a while back - it was running at one point - I have all the plastic shroud off - it's down to frame and engine now
      -fuel pump: when line from petcock is attached, no fuel comes out other side to carb; the line to the carb is open (can blow through it); I thought when I cranked engine that the pump would spit out fuel on other side but it does not; I removed fuel pump and opened it up - diaphragm looks good - but internal areas had lotsa calcification build up - I cleaned this out and dried it good - the clear plastic pieces (?diaphragms) aren't broken - the spring w/ steel ball on end moves freely; am putting it back on tomorrow; but can anyone answer about the pump? isn't it supposed to pump fuel through it... to other side... to carb? puzzling
      -along with fuel pump: I replaced petcock 3 weeks ago (gas tank had rusty fuel in bottom - cleaned it out prior to new petcock); when I turn petcock arrow NOT to on or reserve, fuel comes out of line; when I turn it to on or reserve, fuel doesn't come out; puzzling
      -I don't know what's on back of fuel pump - it's a valve that has a hose coming out of it - looks like it goes to engine/carb - I haven't traced this out yet - what is it?
      -can squirt gas on air filter and engine will run for 2-3 seconds then stop - fuel in top of carb (under diaphragm) does same
      -it likely needs carb rebuild - will get to this - but something isn't allowing fuel to get from fuel pump to carb
      -I THINK it has a mikuni model x carb - diaphragm is ID 26mm  OD 68mm - hard to find inexpensive diaphragm, I guess because it's a model x
      -last thing - I replaced solenoid due to old one clicking; I HAVE to be charging the battery or it won't start/turn over - battery just goes dead; but if charging, it'll turn over nicely; i'm guessing it's a bad battery
      -any help appreciated - I've never owned an ATV before - inherited this beast from grandparent in-law
    • By raybob
      I have it all but can find where the vacuum line on the carb goes its a 2000 suzuki 500 quadmaster I know where the two vent lines go but not the bigger vacuum line goes it has vacuum on this line. need help. Ray
       
    • By StolenATV
      1987 Suzuki LT 80 and 2007 Honda CRF 50 dirt bike stolen out of my driveway on July 4th. Anyone with info that recovers them will get $400 no questions asked.
      Thanks
      The post Suzuki LT 80 Quad And Honda Dirt Bike appeared first on STOLEN 911.
      View the full article
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Ryann Racho
      So Id say about 2 years back I bought a 2013 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. off of my uncle. It ran perfectly, nothing wrong at all. I usually go mudding with it or just ride trails with buddies. So as you would assume, the quad is quite dirty from sitting for a few weeks.
       
      STUTTERING PROBLEM: I noticed one day out of nowhere that in high gear at 15-20 MPH, I was already maxed out at 4500-5000 RPM  It would get to 15-20 mph, max out on rpms and start sputtering. It sounded like it was basically acting like it couldn’t go any faster than this.
       
      IDLING PROBLEM: I was fucking with the carberator the other day maybe thinking that is causing my sputtering, and now my idle will shoot up to 2600 on start usually, then I will turn the throttle adjustment down to the normal 1400. The rpms with then fluctuate 10-30 rpms back and forth repeatedly, it will then run for about another 30-60 seconds and the RPMs will slowly drop to about 900-1000 RPM and stall out. I replaced the carburetor and everything seems to be working perfect on that, no leaks and what not but it’s still acting strange. Also, I’ve noticed that when looking into the Electronic Throttle Control that two plates that aren’t supposed to touch have to be WAY past touching to even try to fire up. Even when set at a wide open throttle like that, I still have to give it some throttle to get it to fire up.
       
      Here is what I have done so far: 
      Checked the belt and clutch
      Changed out spark plug (Last one was covered in carbon)
      Cleaned the intake and air box
      Replaced the carburetor
      Replaced the inline fuel filter
      Checked that all lines on carburetor are connected into the right spots
      Checked If intake boot was cracked (Not from what I can see)
      Unhooked and reattached new carburetor (About 4-5 times)
      Cleaned battery terminals and battery off
      Shut on and off Gas Line Cutoff Valve
       
       
       
      My next thoughts are that maybe the TPS is fucked up or maybe the Spark Arrestor is plugged with mud. I was thinking tomorrow to purge the exhaust and also check the ohms output on the TPS.
       
      ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. I HAVE BEEN BATTLING THIS FOR WEEK AND REALLY WANT TO GO RIDING. THANK YOU!
    • By Wali
      I was riding my 400ex one day and when i shut it off to put it in the garage i tried to start it put again to drive it into the garge and it wouldnt start.I put a compression tester on it and its like 30 psi with out throttle and 0 psi WITH THROTTLE.
      when i put my finger over the hole it fell likes its pulling my finger in more then its pushing it out 
       
      Has good spark.When i took it into the shop the said it had 1oz of oil in it and a tiny pit of metal shaving(TINY BIT LIKE 30 flakes)
      When i try to pull start (push start/roll start) it made a not normal sound  and wouldnt stay running.
      If my bottom end is blow why would it still turn over fine,
      Are my valves siezed or not working properly 
      or is my timing off causeing valves to not open in correct order with fire 
      PLEASE HELP all help is appreciated 
    • By Trenton
      Hello. I am a new member as of today. I had a quick question to ask. I recently was driving mt HONDA RANCHER 2004 GPSscape 400 and my display stopped working. I was driving the atv and all of a sudden the speedometer and the service lights went out. Also the lights stopped working. I am still able to shift gears, change from 2wd to 4wd, and can still select if I want EPS or Auto. I have checked my fuse box and have changed a few of them around. It did not change anything. I was wondering if anyone had any idea of what had happend. Thank you for your time- Trenton 
    • By Ineedabrew
      Hello all,
      I have brought an 84 TRX 200 back to life and unfortunately whomever dug into it first removed the two trim pieces that go around the gas tank.  I was thinking someone on the site may have an old parts bike with these pieces lying around.....  If so, drop me a message and we can make a deal.  I just want to complete the bike!
      Thanks,
      Jason


    • By Connor Tuftin
      I have a 1988 300 Honda FourTrax, All wheel drive.
      My brother and I were fixing up this quad. We put a brand new battery and fuses in and it was running fine until we put the quad into reverse. As soon as it was put into reverse all of the electrical cut out and power wasn't making it to the head unit anymore and both of the brand new fuses popped. We figured there might have been a short from the starter or solenoids, but they are all working properly. At this point we don't know where to start looking for where the short could be. I'm just wondering if anybody has had the same issue or knows of similar issues that could cause these electrical shorts?
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...