Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

mitch1960

King Quad 300 LTF Fuel Issues - Help?

Recommended Posts

I have a 2002 King Quad 300 that has been a fantastic product until now.  Starts well, idles well, upon acceleration, begins to run rough and won't to very high in RPM.  I assumed fuel starvation or bad plug as the issue.  New plug - no change.  Have checked petcock valve which seems ok.  Also checked pump, and thought that might be the issue.  Called around looking for the replacement pump part, and local store suggested they were pretty reliable, and doubted that was the issue.  Suggested a carb cleaning.  Took the easy way out, and opened up the top of the carb, removed the diaphragm, and put some Seafoam in...and let it sit for an hour.  Upon turning over, it wouldn't fire at all.  After a couple of tries, seemed to get a hydraulic lock.  So, pulled plug and turned over, spitting out a lot of fluid.  Re-installed plug, same response.  Now, getting gas leakage on to floor but haven't been able to trace it down exactly (suspect from carb but not from top where I re-installed the diaphragm).  Any ideas?  Thanks.   

Suzuke Carb.PNG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I agree that it sounds like a fuel starvation issue. Was the quad sitting at all for a while? Does it rev up ok?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It gets used regularly - a couple of weekends each month.  Prior to my work reviewed above, it started easily, would get going to 10-15mph, but then begin to sputter.  If I backed off the accelerator, it would stop missing and run as regular, but at the lower RPM.  thanks very much for you time on this.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check your choke operation, air filter (make sure it's not clogged). It could be fuel not filling the bowl, carb jet issues, or even a coil issue on high rev. Can you reach the carb bowl and take that off and then check your float operation? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Finally gave up and took it to a dealer.  They rebuilt the carb and all is well.  Not sure what they found - cracked diaphragm?  Inside of carb was clean as a whistle, not problems with jets being clogged....$175 and all set.  Thanks for the advice, we will get it next time.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By JustRandy
      After looking at the wire diagram I saw the blue w/black stripe wire is coming from the neutral and reverse lights looking for ground thru the neutral and reverse switches. If it finds ground, the lights come on. The same wire also comes from the neutral relay looking for ground at the same neutral and reverse switches. So it was easy to trick the relay into thinking the engine is in neutral all the time without having the light on all the time. Just cut the blue w/black wire at the relay and ground it. Easy
      Sorry the pics aren't better




      Now it starts in any gear and indicator lights work as they should.
    • By Randel1
      Product warning:  Lighting products manufactured by Larson Electronics LLC  9419 E US HWY 175, Kemp Tx. 75143
      Hi, I’m G. Randel and I have a small business that does boat and motor service and repair and rigging. I also service and repair off road 4 wheelers, lawn equipment and small engines. I have been doing this type of work for over 40 years, so I have accumulated some knowledge about the accessories and products needed to support those things. 
      I recently installed two high intensity LED lights on the T-top of one of my customers boats. He bought the lights after he had done considerable research and consultation with manufacturers. He wanted to make sure he was getting something that would serve his needs which was to see where he was going at night while underway on the water.  He decided on lights manufactured by Larson Electronics out of Kemp, Texas. They were reported to be rugged, weatherproof, waterproof to 3 meters and were warrantied against workmanship or component failure under normal use for 3 years. One light quit working within 10 months, the other is still working after about 16 months.  I removed the defective light and sent it back to Larson Electronics for warranty repair or replacement and they denied the warranty claim. Their reason was “failure was due to environmental damage”.
      At the time of purchase these lights sold for over #365.00 each and the representative that my customer talked to at Larson Electronics assured him that these lights were well suited for the purpose in which they were going to be used. 
      So, if you are looking for electronics, as in lighting, for your ATV, SUV. Boat, or any other outdoor application you might want to keep in mind that Larson Electronics LLC
      9419 E US HWY 175, Kemp, TX 75143 might not fulfill their warranty claims if you have a problem with their products.
       
    • By oxidized_black
      View File 1988-2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Service Manual
      1988-2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Service Manual
      The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is one of the most common all-terrain vehicles on off-road trails that is geared toward novice riders and families. It’s also one of the smallest and most inexpensive ATVs on the market, with a retail price under $3,500, as of 2010. The Bayou 220 is Kawasaki’s only ATV of its size. The 220’s sibling is the larger Bayou 250 equipped with a 228cc engine.
      Engine
      The Bayou 220’s engine is a 215cc, four-stroke, shaft-driven, air-cooled model. Its bore measures 2.6 inches and the stroke is 2.4 inches. It features a relatively high 9.3:1 compression ratio with fuel delivered through a Mikuni VM24SS carburetor. The electronic ignition is Kawasaki’s DC-CDI. It also features a recoil backup as a starting system. The clutch is an automatic wet multidisc model with power delivered to the wheels via a five-speed transmission, according to ATV Source.
      Chassis
      The steel frame supports a front suspension with single A-arms and twin shock absorbers, with the rear suspension a Quad-Link system with two shocks. Front wheel travel is 4.5 inches, while the rear wheel travel measures at 4.9 inches. Front and rear brakes are drums.
      Size
      The front tire size is AT21X8-9 with the rear tires measuring AT22X10-10. The ATV’s wheelbase is 43.9 inches, with an overall length of 68.7 inches. Ground clearance is 6.1 inches with the seat height measuring 28.7 inches. It weighs 403 lbs. and can tow up to 450 lbs. Its fuel tank can carry 2.6 gallons.
      Basics
      The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is not the fastest ATV on the market, but one reason the Bayou 220 has kept its price low is the lack of amenities. It features a brake light and dual headlamps with high/low beam. There is an auxiliary lighting terminal inside the front cover of the ATV and electrical accessory terminals under the seat. The instrument cluster atop the fuel tank features a fuel gauge, but not much else. There are no speedometer, odometer, hourmeter, tripmeter, high-beam indication or high-temperature light. It does have a reverse/neutral indicator light. The Bayou comes in two colors: hunter green and firecracker red.
      Features
      The front A-arm, twin shock and rear Quad-Link twin-shock suspension system is not a true fully independent system, but it allows for a comfortable ride over rough terrain without employing a complex and expensive, fully independent suspension system. The ATV features front and rear steel cargo racks. The ATV is rider-friendly with a limited adjustable throttle to help novices practice their riding skills without twisting the throttle too far and losing control of the vehicle.
      Submitter oxidized_black Submitted 12/14/2016 Category Kawasaki ATV  
    • By Lellwyn Griffin
      I think my rear brakes are stuck.  Is these parts in the right position?  Any idea how I repair?  I have to give it more gas to go and I can't push it when it's in neutral.  


       
    • By nix377
      Friend of mine picked up an LT80 that needs some work. The manufacture date is 11/1986
      The fuel and vacuum lines for the carb were all disconnected. I picked up a new card and was hoping someone on here has a photo or knows how the lines are hooked up
      Thanks in advance
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Cory Macleod
      Hi looking for help. My 700 fuel pump won’t cycle when I turn key on also my digital dash is not displaying anything it does light up yellowish but nothing else. If I pour fuel in the intake it will start for second
    • By Steve h
      Looking for the fuel pump location I have no fuel to the carb.  Thanks 
       
    • By Resurgence Small Engine Inc.
      This past spring, Jonathan worked on a 1991 QuadRunner 250 that came with the fuel pump removed. We didn't find good information about connecting it online, so we made a video.
      Below is the link to watch Jonathan describe the connections on the Suzuki fuel pump. This applies to both the Quadrunner and King Quad ATV models.
       
      Hope you find it informative!
      Resurgence Small Engine Inc.
    • By dhallftworth
      Hi everyone, I received a 98 Yamaha Timberwolf from my brother for free, and I'm working on getting it going. 
      I am having the following problem: 
      The engine is backfiring through the carb. 
      I have done the following to try and get the four wheeler running: 
      Rebuilt the carb and set the air screw to 1-1/4 turn out and the circlip at middle position 3
      Replaced the coil, because the cable was loose at the coil end
      Repaired the main ground, coming from the battery
      Replaced the ignition switch, because my brother couldn't find the key. New switch tested good
      Tested the kill switch and it tested good
      New coil tested goodfor both primary and secondary coils
      Pickup coil resistance is at 195, which is correct
      My source coil, is where I believe the issue is. The resistance is 310ohms, and it should be between 428-523ohms
      When I opened the stator housing, there was significant oil, which I have read is normal. Does it sound like I'm on the right track replacing the source coil? Could this be causing my backfiring issue? It looks like the source coil is part of the stator assembly, is this correct? 4BD-85510-20-00 STATOR ASSY
    • By mailman1
      I have a 96 Yamaha Big Bear 350 2x4 which up till yesterday was running ok. However out of the blue as I was going through the field it started missing if you tried to go over half throttle. It will start and run up to about half throttle and then it starts to miss. I changed to a new spark plug thinking it maybe had some carbon buildup but that didn't help. I put a new filter on it this spring as I do each spring but it seems more like something electrical in nature. Anny ideas? Thanks
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...