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I was given a 93 bayou 400 that has been sitting in a barn since some time in 94, hardly any use. The story behind it is the owner poured some gas out of a can full of trash and stopped the carb up. His meth head son took the carb off to rebuild it and got locked up, carb lost in the wind. The bike has been sitting covered ever since. The front rack and bumper has been misplaced but the rest of the bike is there and after washing off some dust it looks like a brand new bike. Still has the little tits on factory dry rotted tires. The old man is supposed to look for the missing parts but I don't have high hopes of them turning up.
Just ordered a carb for it and now looking for missing front pieces. My main question is how much in common does the 400 share with the 300? Seems locally the 400 bayous are as rare as unicorn tears but I find 300 parts bikes all over for next to nothing. I looked on fleabay and seems most of the racks and bumpers on there look like they have been in a demo derby and cost way more than I'm willing to spend for something all beat to crap. If I knew the 300 stuff would indeed work I can pick up a whole bike minus the engine locally for $50.
Not tying to do a pebbles beach restro but just a nice atv we can work around the farm on while spending as little as possible. Most likely throw some 26's under it and also let dad deer hunt off it.
Just picked up a 2001 Kawasaki KLF300-C13 Bayou 300 4X4, the clutch seems to be slipping then catches. After a few minutes of test driving it, it lost all gears. It sounds and feels like it shifts, but nothing.. It just sits there and can even be pushed in any gear just like it was in neutral.
I was in 2nd gear when it died completely.
Would a slipping clutch cause that or is there something else I should check out first? I pulled the clutch adjustment plate off to give that a try, but the 12mm nut will turn, but the bolt is seized to the washers.
It smokes a bit and was thinking about putting rings in it, but unsure now if something major is wrong.
I got this and a KLF 400 as a package deal and drove this about one mile before this happened. (This one wouldn't start when I picked it up and was bought as is so I was unaware of any clutch slipping issues).
View File 1986-2006 Kawasaki Bayou 300 Service Manual
This service manual is for a 1986-2006 Kawasaki Bayou 300. This is an externally hosted file by url.
This is from post:
Credit goes to @oxidized_black
Adding to downloads library.
Submitter Ajmboy Submitted 05/11/2018 Category Kawasaki ATV
First thanks for any help guys, new to the forums and it's gotten me this far. I bought a 2001 bear tracker 250 for my family to get around the dirt bikes races. It wasn't running right and had a high idle. Previous owner thought it was a carb problem, so he ordered a new Zoom carb and new intake boot, but it still had the same high idle. ( I believe he had the throttle cable adjusted wrong, because it idled fine when I put it back together) So I tore down and cleaned the stock carb, and it started up and idled fine, but needed to have the choke 1/2 out to run. I swapped to the new zoom carb and had the same issue. Choke half out bike ran ok. I played with the needle and the pilot screw with no change. ( bike did seem to be running rich though, but didn't get better when I tightened pilot screw or raised meddle) I Took it to the races and once I started bouncing around in the cattle fields the quad started cutting out real bad. It would barely run. Sometimes it would run with choke off, sometimes choke 1/2, sometime choke full. I cleaned carb again, checked float level, and boots, no change still wouldn't run. Then suddenly it started running ok again. This makes me believe it's an electrical issue rather then carb. I know there's no air leak, it's been checked, both carbs are clean( I've swapped them out a couple times, it starts up immediately and usually idles fine. But then bogs down/ or stutters under throttle. I saw the post on the guy who disconnected his rectifier and reconnected and suddenly it started working again, which lead me to believe it may be electrical and not carb. So any advice on what I should check? Any way to test the CDI or rectifier? Once again, I appreciate your help.
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