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So just as a general FYI, it might be good to check replacement parts before installing. If possible, check clearances with a micrometer before going through the trouble of assembly. I say this as I bought a new driveshaft yoke for a Kodiak because the ujoint dropped a cap and got the yoke in a bind...blowing the yoke and middle drive gear to shreds. So I replaced the middle drive gear and bought a new yoke and ujoint kit from Caltric. Caltric is usually pretty solid replacement parts. The new yoke however was a good 4mm too narrow for inside lock ujoint caps. Disappointing since it came as a kit from Caltric.
Ended up taking an angle grinder to the new yoke and thinning material off to get it to the needed 41.25mm opening size. Sucks having to disassemble everything again and start over but my fault for trusting replacement parts. Nearly 40 years of turning wrenches and I made a rookie mistake.
I recently read an article about restoring or at least improving the looks of faded and discolored plastic body parts. In the article it suggested using a 50/50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and paint thinner. You mix it up and apply it with a brush or rag to rub it in and remove the oxidation. I curious to find out if anyone has had experience with doing this and what was their short/long term results of doing so. I would hate to try it and find out that a few weeks/months down the road my plastic body parts self destruct.
Damn, it took 30 years of driving to cause my first accident, and on Friday the damn 13th. Did a low speed rear end into the back of a lifted truck and got into it's trailer receiver. The only place it made contact with was at the very front center of the hood close to where it latches. Unfortunately the impact was enough that there's a longitudinal hump in the middle of the hood now, bowed 6 inches on each side above the quarter panels, which weren't involved at all thank God. Both my headlights are cracked at the top, but not because they got hit; I think it was because the hood and it's latch was pushed back during the collision possibly deforming the support structure, causing the to separate. The hood is lifted up about 3 inches above each headlight and when looking in at the support material just behind each headlight, one side shows cracks and the other cracks and about a 1/2 gap in the material. Can't tell but it may resemble fiberglass, not really sure? My best guess is that the whole front bumper is gonna have to come off and that entire front support piece be replaced. Any advice on how hard this can be? I do a lot of my own work but I really don't want to be getting into this especially with the weather getting so bad now.
When I go junkyard shopping for parts, what year Tauruses are compatible with my '02?
By My kiwi shed
Currently have a 2004 King quad 300 4wd.
There's a few parts I need to get 4wd working again and also have a crack in the engine crankcase(big trucking rock).
Replacement engines are horribly expensive so looking for a half decent site to buy parts /kits that also have detailed diagrams and part numbers.
Going to disassemble weld crack and give the engine a freshen up.
Any recommendations please
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Howdy y'all. Just bought myself a 2004? Yamaha 400 with electrical Gremlins aplenty. Runs good (after jumping the starter solenoid relay terminals with the helpfully included with the sale pliers) but no fan when my wife's 03 Kodiak 400 had fan and the starter button makes it to the starter solenoid but the ECU side isn't happy. This seems to be a lively forum with manual downloads being supported so hi.
Oh yah, and you can get two Kodiak 400s on a 5x8 trailer... I bought a nice 14' trailer as soon as possible after this.
By Nate Hanson
I am a new atv owner...I bought a used atv this summer (pretty sure it is a wolverine but reg card from last owner didnt actually say that so idk for sure). It ran great for most the summer and early fall but one day I tried starting it and it turned over a while without starting and then suddenly it quit turning over at all. No click or anything.
I charged battery and light turns on showing neutral and heatlight can go on.
A few other things that may be pertinent: The pull start is missing, I have a fluke multimeter but not many other advanced tools (or relevant experience), there is an extra aftermarket led light attached to front but it doesnt work either... never looked into why since I didnt need it.
I looked for a fuse box and didnt find one.
Please recommend some easier things to try first as I really want to avoid taking it in if I can (having one income and 4 kids can keep out extra cash, plus I want to learn). Pictures would be awesome if possible. Thanks!
By Kanyon Pershing
I have recently rebuilt my Yamaha warrior 350 engine and when I got it all back together with no “spare parts” i went to start it and realized it’s in reverse. I went to put it in drive and the shifter won’t budge, I took the linkage off and tried to use vise grips but it won’t budge at all. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m hoping it’s not something internal!
these are what i have in my collection ... always looking for more
1985 - 1990 Suzuki LT230 & LT250 Service Manual
1987 - 1998 Suzuki Quad Runner 250 & King Quad 280 Service Manual
1987 - 2006 Suzuki LT80 Service Manual
1987 Suzuki LT500R Quadzilla Service Manual
1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Porting Instruction
1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Quadracer Service Manual
1988 - 1992 Suzuki LT250R Tuning Guide Instruction
1999 - 2004 Suzuki King Quad 300 Service Manual
2002 - 2007 Suzuki 500LTA Service Manual
2002 - 2009 Suzuki LTF250 Ozark Service Manual
2003 Suzuki LTZ400 Service Manual
2006 Suzuki 50LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
2004 Suzuki 250LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
2005 Suzuki LTA700 King Quad Service Manual
2007 Suzuki 90LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
2008 Suzuki 400FLTF King Quad Service Manual
2008 Suzuki 750 King Quad Service Manual
2009 Suzuki 400LTZ Quad Sport Service Manual
ALSO CHECK SUZUKI ATV SERVICE MANUAL DOWNLOADS
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