Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
By Ed Zeppeli
I picked up this quad after the previous owner couldn't get it going.
The issue is that I can't get it to fire at idle or at all.
- replaced plug. Decent blue spark. Also tested with spark tester inline.
- rebuilt the carb. PO had already bypassed vacuum lines from petcock. There's fuel at the cylinder
- Checked compression with new gauge. reads 190 psi
- cleaned all contacts I could access.
- am currently jumping with car battery. Solenoid jumpered.
- checked cam timing at TDC and adjusted valve lash
- put gas directly into cylinder to see if it will fire at least momentarily
Motor turns over well. Plug gets wet.
Motor may fire once or twice but smokes through exhaust a bit as if it's trying to fire or combusting.
This leads me to suspect timing. As mentioned I checked the flywheel mark versus cam marks. Perhaps someone has been in there before because I can't find a 'T' on the flywheel but there is a very visible paint mark which aligns with TDC position on piston. Possibly a slipped flywheel/woodruff?
Is it possible that if it had seen previous repairs, that the timing could still be off? I'm reluctant to dig into the flywheel/stator area if there's something else I could have missed but all signs point me to that area. Would a bad CDI cause spark timing to be off?
Anywhere else to diagnose incorrect spark timing?
I've scoured these forums and elsewhere but I'm posting just in case there's something I've overlooked up until now.
Thanks very much for reading!
Fixing up a 1998 King Quad 300. The rear brake was locked up, and the owner tried to force it free and snapped the axle.
I disconnected the brake cable, and tapped on the backing plate with a soft mallet to get the brake freed up. When I pulled off the brake drum a bunch of nasty rust water came out.
Once I had the axle out, I popped the boot off so I could see the inner u joint so I could phase/synchronize it with the outer. There was a flat steel disc floating around in the boot, looks like it used to be pressed into the end of the axle. Glad I got that out of there before it munched up the joint.
The book says the yokes should be aligned, I couldn't get mine aligned. They were always 7 degrees off from each other. A bit frustrating, maybe that's within the tolerance limits?
But I got it all back together and it runs great.
By Locke DoBay
Hello I'm new here and not sure on where this should be posted but here goes. I have a 2007 Kawasaki 360 4x4, it started to make a small knocking sound and few weeks ago. I checked all the normal things and didn't find anything. I just used it around the house as my yard machine, no real heavy loads or stress on it. And it ran fine with no problems. Well one day I went to roll my yard with my roller that i filled with sand. It put the 4wheeler under a load for the first time, well it ran fine for about 20 mins then i stopped to do something and it started but there was nothing there. It would not rev up enough to engage the belt drive and the knock got a lot louder. Sounds like the knock is coming from the top end. And ideas in where to start. I have worked on some stuff and mechanically inclined just never tore into an engine before.
Similar Tagged Content
By Kelby 746
I have a 1987-89 (not sure on the year) Kawasaki bayou 300 that has electrical issues, I have replaced the entire harness with a proven good/used one, new CDI box, and two brand new coils, problem is that it tests no charge at the pickup coil, so I replaced and tested again with a so called good one that had been salvaged out of a blown up 220/250 (not sure which, the left side cover is smaller than my 300) in Missouri. It has a proven good OEM stator. I am trying to avoid buying a new start and pickup coil because it is so expensive so if anyone has a suggestion please let me know.
A friend of mine has this Bayou 220 that started running bad and parked it a few years ago. I foolishly volunteered to take a look at it. I noticed right away the choke plunger on the carb was broken and probably the reason it was running bad but now the old gas was evaporated and like turpentine. Before i even tried to start it, i drained/ thoroughly washed the tank out, new fuel filter, new fuel lines. Blew air through the petcock etc. Changed the oil and filter and air filter and new choke plunger and cable. I disassembled the carb and rebuilt it with a kit. I cleaned the main jet with solvent and poked a wire through it to make sure it is clean.. the engine now fires right up with the choke on and dies when i take the choke off. I adjusted the air/fuel screw to about 1.5 turns out and the idle screw about 2.5 turns out. The rubber boot between the carb and head does not have any cracks in it so I don't think it is leaking air. I originally had the clip on the needle on the second from the top ring... when i moved it all the way to the bottom it starts, runs and idles really fast and will idle eeally high with the choke off but if i adjust the throttle cable and/or idle screw to a slower idle it will sometimes stall but the idle will go up and down every few seconds and when you give it gas there is a hesitation... i tried moving the clip down to rhe second from bottom and same problem... i replaced all the parts in the pic to the top right. However, there appears to be a small o ring, washer and spring left over from the kit... i did not see these get removed..... a) any idea if where these extra parts go and if i need them and b) any other ideas on why i cant get it to idle right or carb adjustment ideas?
By Samuel Myers
So, I've been having issues with my Bayou 220. It's gotten to the point where it was parked for 4 years just because of the issues.
Issue 1, Grabby clutch: The clutch is adjusted incorrectly and grabs when shifting from neutral to 1st. It grabs before the engine has a chance to rev, which stalls it.
Issue 2, Starter clutch blown out: The starter clutch is busted and spins free both directions.
Issue 3, bad shocks: The springs or shocks are bad and the quad leans hard when getting on.
I recently acquired an old Bayou from a neighbor that I cleaned up a got running, then from nowhere a problem crops up where it refuses to start........ I pull the plug and it has no spark, pulled the plug cap off and laid the bare wire on the exhaust header and still nothing......once in a while though when I push the starter button but as I let off the button it might spark once. Now it did begin sparking normally just once and I plugged everything back in and it ran normally again until I turned the engine off. Next time I tried starting it we were back to no spark or the one spark deal.
I have tested the stator wires at 140 ohm, the pick up at 130 ohm (I can't seem to find a reliable number for these values online), I bought a new ignition coil and ignition switch on chance those may have been the problem but were not, not sure where to look from here......... does the starter relay switch have anything to do with the ignition on these? I know these older Bayou's are magneto type ignitions and do not need battery power to operate but I wonder if there are safety switches involved I may not be aware of. Also, can someone point me to a good wiring schematic for the magneto 220's? Pre 95 I believe.
thanks for any help!
By Summer Warren
Hey I just recently bought a 2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 when you shift it jumps a lot and while it’s riding it it’s jumping as well but won’t stay started when you let off the gas Could somebody tell me what could possibly be the problem? Thank you
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.