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joseph

1990 Suzuki LT 4wd need help running issue

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5 hours ago, joseph said:

thanks i will try that the thing is it never did that before since i bought it i rebuilt the carb at least 5 or 6 times finally bought a different new carb from a place that could get a aftermarket one it ran great for a year and a half  then it would start this i would work the throttle it would straghten out but now it wont . the one thing i noticed was that neddle with the groves is a 1[8 in longer then in a kit ive even tried different kits all have the shorter needle  iam 79 was a heavy equipment mechanic many years figured i could fix about anything but not this ILL TRY WHAT YOU SAID AND THANKS

Don't worry brother , youre doing just fine ...well get it running ....

Are you saying that the Current needle on the bike is Longer than normal ? If that is the case , I would ask if you NEED to ,meaning every cold start ,   start the bike with or without the choke currently?  If you don't use the choke and it starts  and idles , then dies when throttle is applied , then we need to get it to NEED the choke on cold starts. Once you reply ; we can go through dropping or raising the needle in tandem with your idle and/or air/fuel screw . 

Just Fyi , Suzuki chokes are not chokes but Enriching  circuits be it air or fuel. 

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right now and for a year and half the aftermarket carb was and is on machine,,i do need to chock it to start it starts right up i let it run a few minutes try to rev up it quits if i dont rev it up it probabley idle all day i cant rev it up to check voltage it quites a inline spark checker shows spark i do have a new reglator have to take front fender off to change before this happened i would run it a couple times a week for maybe 5 houres mostly to bring out wood it has a xtra low independent suppension front and back did great on this land i have

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Try adding a little choke when you try to rev it up. If it rev's up its fuel starved. The bottom air fuel adjustment is very very touchy.

If you rebuild the carb. use a very small wire or get a welders tip cleaner to check all passages after you blow low pressure air backwards through the passages, spraying a carb cleaner through these ports backwards is also good, be careful not to get any cleaner in your eyes. Backwards means from the carb center back in to the fuel bowl or air inlet areas. Anything in the passage will be blown out and not inwards.

Also try clamping off all the lines going to the carb one at a time. Found mine had been getting a little extra fuel via the vacuum port on the fuel pet cock.  Have also seen a cracked vac line that stayed closed at idle and would open up when more vac was applied (motor rev up a little).

Make sure all your lines going to the carb are in the correct location. Had some line change out and it either didn't run right or not at all. I've taken all the lines off more than one and started from scratch and fixed the problem.

One last thing is most Japanese products don't play well with champion spark plugs. I personally used NGK or Nepondenso plugs. I have had a bunch of problems clear up by just changing the plug out. Even in cars,  Had perfectly good running motor, changed plug/s and ran real bad, put the old plug back in, ran fine. put a new Ngk plug in ran fine, new champ and turd city.

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i want to thank every one for there advice i tried all if i hadnt did that before a member shane meguffie was right on checking voltage it was 17 i put on new one 14.4 volts ran ok except carb needs proper adjusting and i will be glad to take all advice you guys sure helped me out. i never could take to a dealer because of cost suzuki  atv parts ar  way over  priced i ran into that on a wheel cyl. suzuki wanted about %50.00 a suzuki truck same wheel cyl. %10.00 at amazon,and the area i live in the dealers are aragent

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If you know you're getting good fuel I'd go the ignition system route. I've had this happen in 2 strokes. It'll have great spark while cranking slow but when you crank it fast the spark goes away. May have a faulty pickup on the stator or something else.

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We all go to fuel, poor spark etc. This was a good find both as a problem solver and Info going foreword to help others.  I personally would have never thought that problem existed.  

It just shows how valuable a site like Quadcrazy is ! 💪

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it sure was for me i bought a clymer service manual when i first bought this atv first one for me,but there not that good nothing in there about this ptoblem the pictures are so black hard to see i know ive had transmission apart to put in starter clutch drive,thank god for you guys help i think suzuki isnt the best pilot screw under carb cannot adjust unless carb off. i bought it because of suppension and supper low.didnt know suzuki robs you on part prices thanks again every one

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Alright Shane and Kent! Great job everyone . This is the reason for sites like these . Bunch of helpful, like minded individuals all pitching in to get a bike running.

Joseph, you are more than welcome buddy. I can't count how many bikes, trikes , quads , or scooters other gentlemen like Shane or Kent have brought back to life for me . Cheers to my fellow members! I LuV iT!

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i have a honda foreman that was doing the same thing, turned out to be the run jet in the carb. idle jet was fine which allowed it to idle perfect but died as soon as you throttled up. 

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seen air vapor lock on gas tank.  air into tank at gas cap was filled with mud/dirt- it would run 3-10 seconds then quit.  no gas could be sucked out of tank as no air could come in.

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