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By Shawn Hurt
I have a 2013 KQ I bought it new but rolled it a few years ago. I have replaced the left lower A-arm and left tie rod, the steering is still a little sketchy as I just eye balled the alignment. But the major issue is the left front tire cambers out at the top and has wore the tire bald. Tires have about 2000 miles on them but other 3 are half tread and left front is a slick.. I can not see anything else bent and don't know what to do..
Sadly this may be the last post I make on the old '11 Crown Vic (320k). So yesterday I heard a quiet hiss coming from the front which turned out to be a very small radiator leak...in the middle of a fin somewhere. Doing errands around town today I kept extra coolant with me and added it as it needed. After filling it up I make a 60 mph trip to a nearby city about 20 miles away. When I get to a stop at the bottom of the off ramp, I hit the gas it it doesn't move. No extra lights on the dash except for the check engine light which was already on for something else. I put it in park and back in drive, tried all the gears but got nothing, not even in reverse. Thinking it might have something to do with my coolant situation I checked it and ended up putting in like 1.5 gal of coolant which is much more than it's taken before. Only thing I can imagine is that the leak got worse on the interstate and I didn't notice it. Did the no coolant issue cause the transmission to overheat somehow? There was a slight burning smell in the cabin so something definitely overheated. The overheat light on the dash never came on (I think I have one?) and the engine ran fine the whole time. I was traveling at 60 mph though so I wonder if that would be enough to cool the engine off while the transmission still overheated?
What in the heck happened and what do I do, besides sell the damn thing.
By Dave Ayoub
Ok i am not quick to jump on a forum and post a question without doing my own part and trying to research and solve the problem myself but I cannot find any definitive information anywhere about my problem. I have a Big Bear 350 that I picked up very cheap which had been sitting in a field for years. I am not new to building wheelers but this one has me beat. After rebuilding top end and replacing the carb it fires right up. The vin has some number worn off from being next to the shifter but from the parts in the clutch i assume it is early since 87 parts seem to be the only ones that match. Thats when the plot thickened.
Reverse works fine but when in the forward gears it would not go past 1st and was hard to get into neutral. ie. a it took a million clicks up to thump into 1 and as many down to find neutral. still never getting past 1st. within minutes i could hear metal screeching and whirling around in the clutch side of the motor. I took the cover off to find that 3 out of the 4 springs on the centrifugal clutch had broken and were shredded. Also the black mechanism that the pawl on shift shaft grabs moves was loose so it wasnt always grab to change the gear on the transmission. I tightened that mech, and replaced the springs assuming it would solve the problem since the gears were not actually changing from the lever and the carrier should obviously not only have 1 spring left.
After putting everything back together it did go into 1st fairly easy but then i again couldnt get it back to N without a million clicks down and couldnt get it to go past 1st. I did one time get it into a higher gear who knows what one but i gained some speed and dropped rpm.
If i jack both the front and the back wheels off the ground and run the motor it becomes much easier to shift and i can get it to run through the gears pretty well. Usually going into N without a huge fight. not perfect but it does hit neutral and roar while spinning the wheels instead of gain rpm and with the power.
I have tried every possible position on the clutch adjustment screw without any noticeable result. I think this could potentially be where my problem lies at this point.
does anyone know if the case is supposed to be threaded? because mine is not. obviously it seems as though it should be since every other bike ive touched has been. i even took the cover off my quadrunner to make sure it wasnt crazy.
when the screw is adjusted and the jam nut tightened the screw will just slide back out since there is no threading in the case. accomplishing nothing.
Does anyone have any insight on any of this? Are my plates stuck, Centrif clutch worn out, case stripped or something else crazy im over looking?
By Chase Cook
I have a 2001 yamaha yfm350x and it has a brand new top end, new carburetor (stopped the leaking problem and is now getting gas to it), new CDI box, new stator, handlebar switches work, off-and-on switch works, new starter solenoid (works), new neutral relay (works), ordered a new Rectifier on its way, good strong blue spark. Has compression, valves are right. Timings is right and is TDC. When I try to start it it just makes a loud popping noise like its backfiring but it's not because its not running when I push the throttle all the way and when i barly push the throttle it try to start but won't, so I'm trying to figure out what could be the problem not starting now, Getting very fustrated with this thing and put some work and money into it and it's not still not working. This is the only atv I ever had that I can not figure out the problem to get running. Need help please..
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I was riding my 400ex one day and when i shut it off to put it in the garage i tried to start it put again to drive it into the garge and it wouldnt start.I put a compression tester on it and its like 30 psi with out throttle and 0 psi WITH THROTTLE.
when i put my finger over the hole it fell likes its pulling my finger in more then its pushing it out
Has good spark.When i took it into the shop the said it had 1oz of oil in it and a tiny pit of metal shaving(TINY BIT LIKE 30 flakes)
When i try to pull start (push start/roll start) it made a not normal sound and wouldnt stay running.
If my bottom end is blow why would it still turn over fine,
Are my valves siezed or not working properly
or is my timing off causeing valves to not open in correct order with fire
PLEASE HELP all help is appreciated
Hello. I am a new member as of today. I had a quick question to ask. I recently was driving mt HONDA RANCHER 2004 GPSscape 400 and my display stopped working. I was driving the atv and all of a sudden the speedometer and the service lights went out. Also the lights stopped working. I am still able to shift gears, change from 2wd to 4wd, and can still select if I want EPS or Auto. I have checked my fuse box and have changed a few of them around. It did not change anything. I was wondering if anyone had any idea of what had happend. Thank you for your time- Trenton
I have brought an 84 TRX 200 back to life and unfortunately whomever dug into it first removed the two trim pieces that go around the gas tank. I was thinking someone on the site may have an old parts bike with these pieces lying around..... If so, drop me a message and we can make a deal. I just want to complete the bike!
By Connor Tuftin
I have a 1988 300 Honda FourTrax, All wheel drive.
My brother and I were fixing up this quad. We put a brand new battery and fuses in and it was running fine until we put the quad into reverse. As soon as it was put into reverse all of the electrical cut out and power wasn't making it to the head unit anymore and both of the brand new fuses popped. We figured there might have been a short from the starter or solenoids, but they are all working properly. At this point we don't know where to start looking for where the short could be. I'm just wondering if anybody has had the same issue or knows of similar issues that could cause these electrical shorts?
New to me xpress i believe shuts down when put into reverse, but if i hold the override button it will remain running.
This is not normal operation based on my scramblers i've owned before. She also grinds when i attempt to select high gear and wont engage. lastly she runs great in low gear . I dont know how to fix this or where to begin my troubleshooting. 1994 polaris 300 2x4 thanks in advance for any suggestions/solutions
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