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1997 Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) Runs Bad


JacobSlabach

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Ok so let’s review a few things. 

1 is the timing correct and not 180 out ? 

2 the carb is definitely having an issue. I know you rebuilt it but there is  a problem. It could be the tab on the float that’s not set right allowing the bike to keep filling. Do you know the tab I’m talking about ? 

3 how does the motor sound when you crank it ? 

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  1. when I took the cam sprocket off, I took a pic which I'll upload.  If you look at the pic, there is an indent in the sprocket just right of the center.  I made sure that was to the right again when I put it back together, with the 'T' mark centered on the flywheel
  2. Yes I do know the tad and I had adjusted it to keep the gas valve in farther (I was thinking that might help with flooding)  The float was not sticking when I took the carb apart....  the only thing I can thing of is I put the clean jets off the aftermarket carb in the oem carb (they all looked the same)  maybe that caused a problem?
  3. The engine turns over easier than it did when I took it apart, It had a clicking noise when I would turn it over with the rope that sounded like valves, but I also hadn't put the back end of the muffler on yet.
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Def need a game plan smart move. Did you download the manual ? I looked on the manual and it’s telling me otherwise.  

There is a mark as per the picture I posted. 

You have to double check against that pic I sent.  

You have to pull that cover off the sprocket with the 8mm bolts and look to see if there is a mark there like the pic I sent.  

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18 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

If you are looking at that sprocket housing I’m going to say around 11 o’clock there should be a mark.   That mark should be lined up with the tab on the cam.  There are marks on each side. One says 220 not yours.  The other is for your bike. 

749F4D3D-ABBE-4D09-A81B-2FAA732D4AE1.jpeg

didint see ur pic at first, this is what I have! ☝️  the two marks (what he's pointing to) are in line with the cylinder.

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This is what I have:  The red dot is the center of the cam, the blue dot is the indent I was talking about (it faces toward the rear of the bike)  the green marks are what you're talking about that are lined up with the cylinder.  the pink circles the cap on the flywheel to view the 'T'mark

InkedPicture1209180939951_LI.jpg

I can take the cam cover off next time I work on it to check the mark on the head (A)

9 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Def need a game plan smart move. Did you download the manual ? I looked on the manual and it’s telling me otherwise.  

There is a mark as per the picture I posted. 

You have to double check against that pic I sent.  

You have to pull that cover off the sprocket with the 8mm bolts and look to see if there is a mark there like the pic I sent.  

yes I have the manual, and I will check the mark next time I am working on the bike.

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I would take it off the bike and open the bowl up to expose the float.  Hook up a clean hose to the gas line on the carb and blow into it and manually raise the float up until the air flow stops.  If it travels to far up before the air stops then adjust the tab on the float up a bit.   If it does not close off at all  then that’s a float needle and seat issue that may be no longer good as there is a small rubber tip on the float needle or may have been caused by using the other jet kit from the Chinese carb.  Try and put the old one back or order an oem jet and seal kit from amazon for $20 bucks. 

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ok thanks!  we have over 20 inches of snow here (from yesterday) so I am going to try to get this thing running today.  So I hear you saying this: 

  1. check the timing carefully and make sure the marks on the cam sprocket line up with the mark on the head
  2. swap the jets in the carbs to get the stock jets in the stock carb to make sure the needle is seating correctly to shut off the fuel.
  3. anything else?
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Dam! That’s a lot of snow! 

Nope that’s about it. Just double check the timing as per the bike manual to be sure. 

Carb: I would proceed as I mentioned with the testing of the float shut off.  

Put the air fuel screw at 1-1/2 to 1-3/4 out from a snug position to get it running  and final adjustment after the air box is on the bike.  

Hopefully you will have it running to enjoy the snow.   

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Ok so I put the Chinese carb back on it cause I knew that would at least make it idle and I had a feeling that the oem carb might be blocked somewhere....  but it wont run period.  I took the Chinese carb back off and felt the entrance to the head and it was completely dry--  no gas to engine.  checked my gas flow from the tank and theres plenty of gas there...  what could be wrong with it?  It is no longer flooding out the bottom of the carb.  I'm gonna try the oem carb while I'm waiting for a response.

Edited by slabach
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ok so the spark plug wasnt tight lol  the oem carb is still flooding out the bottom and the chinese carb is getting gas in there now but nothing happens...  the oem carb did fire up with choke and ran REALLY bad and shut off when I took the choke off, and backfired out the carb.  cant get the chinese carb to work at all..

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