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JacobSlabach

1997 Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) Runs Bad

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It's really not that hard. We will walk you thru. Take pics and watch YouTube.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

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ok thanks!  I am still waiting on the compression test kit- got the carb in but I wont have time to work on it till next week because of thxgiving.

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You were about to swamp the thing last week! 

This would be a great bike to learn on.  It’s not that deep. Are you mechanically inclines at all ? 

I think you can do it! 

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I did get stuck (2wd)😕 and I had to get pulled out with a truck lol.  I can figure stuff out but I dont have much to any experience with engines.

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also, I fouled my sp on it at my friends house.  It started as usual when I put it on the trailer but when I pushed the starter button to unload it, it turned over fine but it didn't fire.  The sp was maybe 2 or 3 months old.  Happens my friend rides a Honda Recon and got a new sp in the mail that day so i tried his old one in my bayou and it fired up but still ran as usual.

compression tester came in this evening:  it holds at 60psi (4bar).  Anyone know where its supposed to be at?  its a 97 bayou 300  (klf300b)

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And it never got past 60 psi ? 

So that’s a bit of a problem.  It was prob ran hard.   I would think a new set of valve seals, piston and rings are required to bring that compression back to where it belongs. 

So try one more thing.  Spray some windex around the head gasket areas and around the top part of the engine and crank it. See if bubbles show up if so the head gasket may be leaking.

Some time people beat the crap out of the bikes and kill the piston and rings.  

I guess at this point you have to make a decision on how much you want to spend time wise and money wise.  Is the bike completely in tact and worth fixing etc.  

It’s a good experience to learn on but that’s up to you. 

Me I would do it because the bike will run forever after that. But it also has to be a compete bike not bastardized!  

 

 

If the bike is all together and all parts are there I would go for it if you have a few extra bucks to do it and some knowledge of motors.   

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Yes.  I'm gonna keep this bike and fix it I think.  I got the stock carb that u suggested and the top end seals.  I will order a piston, rings and a cylinder ($140 so not tooo bad ig)  I want it to run and dont care about the time put into it.  What tools should I get?  

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Good socket set metric with a swivel joint, Allen keys, open end wrench set, rubber mallet, razor blade and holder the kind that scrapes, feeler gauges for valves. 

I like a wire wheel that goes in a drill to help clean up parts. I use a soft bristle wire wheel.

A few small bins for all the parts and painters tape and sharpie to mark what’s what.  

Also a piece of tie wire to hold the timing chain from falling into the engine.

gasket adhesive, latex gloves and some fresh oil.   

Take a few pics before for reference when reassembling. 

 

 

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You can.  I don’t don’t use one only bc I have done it so many times.  If your not fimillar then maybe so.   It’s just a matter of squeezing the rings as they slide into the cylinder head.  The bottom of the cylinder head is tapered for the rings to slide in. 

There is a tool that goes on the drill that hones the cylinder. Just to clean it up. Maybe take a look at that.  

Spray the exhaust bolts now with penetration oil so they have time to soak.  

Just be patient with the work. Don’t push to hard.  Things break and you can get frustrated and drink a lot of beer. 

Oh and music helps too! 

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ok so this thing has me confused now:  I was out riding a couple days ago and I turned it off briefly to do something and when I tried to start it again, it would turn over fine, but wouldn't fire at all.  I assumed that it blew a sp since it had done it before-  new sp in it and no difference.  I just checked compression agian and it is reading 80psi since it stopped running..   :frown:  It was 60psi when it was running

I assume I just go ahead with the plan of replacing the top end seals, piston, rings, and cylinder?

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So yes I would proceed with the top end work. There is def something going on as well as low compression.

As for the needle in the carb. The blown up detail may not show the clip adjustment.  Pull the vacuum slide out and the needle.  There should be an “E” clip and a few grooves. 

 

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Sorry for the brief post I was at work. The needle is located in the slide.  Pull the small V shaped clip that holds the needle inside the rubber/plastic slide The needle will come out when you turn it upside down.   

That needle should have a round e clip and small grooves as well.   It’s self explanatory at that point.  Just need to figure out where to set it and remember where it was before you pull the clip off.  

Let me know if you see that.  

As for the top end the symptoms you are having what sounds like the typical dead top end problems.  

This is caused by either beating the shit out of the bike by over reving or pushing the bike to hard in the wrong gear. For instance going up a hill in a higher gearing.  Over time these things will hurt the engine. That’s my guess as to what’s going on. 

Have you ordered the parts ? 

 

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I might be wrong, but  when testing compression aren't you suppose to have the throttle wide open?

I do that when testing compression.

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I’ve tested both ways and got the same readings. Not sure why it’s said that it makes a difference.  But I’ve done it all my life with the throttle open or closed. No difference in the reading.  

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I have ordered them and some have come, some haven't yet...  I have the oem carb in so I'll start rebuilding that soon.  Right now I'm waiting on another project in my shop to start on the bayou.  As to the compression testing, I have never heard anything about where the throttle is supposed to be.  The directions that came with the test kit didn't mention throttle at all.

16 hours ago, Maggie Hall said:

I bet your having a Vacuum line issue too 

Explanation??

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