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JacobSlabach

1997 Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) Runs Bad

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A few ppl posted compression test videos on YouTube saying to open the throttle. It should make no difference.  Ok brother when you are ready to tear into that thing we are here! 

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Another question just for general knowledge:  Does it ever matter what temperature it is when you're working on an engine?  (my shop is not heated)  :S

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Other then the additional pain when you smash your knuckles with wrenches 🤬I would say no!  Maybe when it comes to any silicones or gasket adhesives.... they recommend temps above 50 deg to use but I would think you are good to go! 

Maybe a small heater, they have plug in type and the small desiel salamander type. 

Shit maybe a small pellet stove would be cool ! 

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lol  Yea my shop aint that big (its 8x17)..  I would defiantly try to find warmer days to work on it, but I was just wondering if there's a limit.  Thanks!

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alrighty!  I was mainly concerned about the valves..?  should I take them out or leave them?

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how do i get the chain lose so I can take the head off?  I already took the tensioner out.  Do I take the cam sprocket off?

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nvm I got everything off (head and cylinder)  The cylinder looked like it was in perfect condition (absolutely no scratching anywhere).  The top of the piston was covered in black, crusty, loose soot and likewise in the head and around the valves.  What should I do next?

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You should not need it. Just line the rings up and squeeze them as you slide the cylinder head down into the sleeve.  

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I'm working on getting the cylinder in right now.  I put everything together and realized I forgot the gasket 😰  I might work some more on it today but not sure yet...  Where all should I be using the gasket adhesive?

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It’s not really necessary to use the gasket adhesive. And I was going to remind you to NOT forget the gasket! Sorry. 

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Well I did get it on, just upside down lol

Thanks for all your help on this btw!  I still am not sure what to do with the head- its really dirty with buildup around the valves..  Ig I'll cross that bridge when I get there

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Lol well let’s hope that’s your biggest mistake !  Take some pics of possible. 

Whats yiur plan with the valve seals ?

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As far as the nasty build up goes I like to use carb cleaner or starting fluid.  Put it in a rubber bin or bucket and spray the shit out of it.  The gunk falls right off, I use a small brush as well. 

Wipe It down good with wd-40 when you are done.  

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So I wont need to take the head apart?  (that would be nice)  I'm thinking the rings were going bad and then the buildup just held the valves open?  I do have the top end gasket kit but if I dont need in for the head, I'd rather not take that apart and get into the valves.  I will check the clearance with the valve tool i got when its all back together.  Carb cleaner is exactly what I was going to ask about for the buildup lol  I'll make sure to get everything oiled down before it goes back together.

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I’m not sure about the build up holding the valves open. I don’t think that would be the case.   You can check the clearance but you won’t be able to check the valve seals visually so I would think having the head off would be the most ideal time to change the seals.  It would really suck to find out your seals are bad after all this work. So I would change them.  But that’s up to you.   

 

 

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Ok I have a diagram on kawasaki.com of the valves..  How do I do this without damaging the valves?  

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I could sit here and explain it to you but your better off going to you tube and seeing how it’s done. It’s not hard at all and you won’t damage the valves.   Just make sure that you pot the valve back in the same hole it came from.   I mentioned in my earlier posts about getting a tool that helps you compress the valve.  You can buy one for about $15 on amazon or go to your local auto store and rent one etc.   

Clean  the valve good before you put it back in. 

 

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Sorry I didn't respond before you tore into the motor but I bet your fue/airl mixture screw in bottom of bowl was just off a bit sounded like original poblem was running lean this would explain the burnt metal smell the blue smoke just a lil bit and the impossible cold start problems. I had same prob with my 87 atv of my neighbors he said it hadn't ran without a bogg on top end since he got it 15 yrs ago after cleaning the carb it would start bogging at 3/4 throttle to pinned in last gear like it was running outta fuel if I continued to hold throttle it would die and be hard to start but if I let off it would go back to idle. Turned bottom air screw in to seat then back out to 1 3/4 turns it was previously out 2 1/2 turns immidiately fixed. My neighbor said this is best it's ever ran and he's had it in three different shops trying to fix it. The new carbs you buy today are cheap Chinese version of the real aluminum cast that came on it I would clean original and set properly and stay away from ethenol mixed gas only run 100% this will solve your rusted issues when storing either absolutely full tank of gas with fuel shut off and bowl drained with a lil seafoam placed in bowl and in cylinder or completely empty tank when there is room for moister to get in tank with ethenol mixed gas the ethenol pulls moister in as it seperates from the gas and settles to bottom of tank so like I said all the way filled or all the way empty is storing. I always use seafoam instead of stabil it last all year just but it in the can that you fill toys with each time getting gas and your good

 

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If your valve seals were bad you would've been getting smoke thru every gear when twisting the throttle not just top end 5 the gear. Blue smoke running hotter than should top end is a lean running condition to much air not enough fuel

 

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thanks! I will definitely check to see if adjusting the air screw in helps if its still having issues when its back together.  If that was the problem, then yes that would have been nice to know before I tore it apart and spent 500+labor on it, but thanks for saying something now rather than never!👍

And it was mainly smoking(blue) if I used choke when I started it cold-  no smoke after it warmed up, just that burnt smell.

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And I could peg it as much as I wanted and it didnt choke out or cough--  it just died when stopped after pushing it in 4th and 5th.

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On 11/26/2018 at 6:13 PM, Frank Angerano said:

Sorry for the brief post I was at work. The needle is located in the slide.  Pull the small V shaped clip that holds the needle inside the rubber/plastic slide The needle will come out when you turn it upside down.   

That needle should have a round e clip and small grooves as well.   It’s self explanatory at that point.  Just need to figure out where to set it and remember where it was before you pull the clip off.  

Let me know if you see that.  

As for the top end the symptoms you are having what sounds like the typical dead top end problems.  

This is caused by either beating the shit out of the bike by over reving or pushing the bike to hard in the wrong gear. For instance going up a hill in a higher gearing.  Over time these things will hurt the engine. That’s my guess as to what’s going on. 

Have you ordered the parts ? 

 

after thinking about it, I did run it pretty hard- I thought these things were bulletproof... lol  when I visited my friend in AL, he clocked me going 45mph on it behind his truck-  I thought that was slow, because he could get his stock sportsman with a jacked up carb to 70mph (no joke).......untill one of my friends told me that a manual quad wasn't supposed to be able to go that fast.😎

Edited by slabach

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