Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

JacobSlabach

1997 Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) Runs Bad

Recommended Posts

A few ppl posted compression test videos on YouTube saying to open the throttle. It should make no difference.  Ok brother when you are ready to tear into that thing we are here! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Another question just for general knowledge:  Does it ever matter what temperature it is when you're working on an engine?  (my shop is not heated)  :S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Other then the additional pain when you smash your knuckles with wrenches 🤬I would say no!  Maybe when it comes to any silicones or gasket adhesives.... they recommend temps above 50 deg to use but I would think you are good to go! 

Maybe a small heater, they have plug in type and the small desiel salamander type. 

Shit maybe a small pellet stove would be cool ! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lol  Yea my shop aint that big (its 8x17)..  I would defiantly try to find warmer days to work on it, but I was just wondering if there's a limit.  Thanks!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


how do i get the chain lose so I can take the head off?  I already took the tensioner out.  Do I take the cam sprocket off?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

nvm I got everything off (head and cylinder)  The cylinder looked like it was in perfect condition (absolutely no scratching anywhere).  The top of the piston was covered in black, crusty, loose soot and likewise in the head and around the valves.  What should I do next?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I'm working on getting the cylinder in right now.  I put everything together and realized I forgot the gasket 😰  I might work some more on it today but not sure yet...  Where all should I be using the gasket adhesive?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I did get it on, just upside down lol

Thanks for all your help on this btw!  I still am not sure what to do with the head- its really dirty with buildup around the valves..  Ig I'll cross that bridge when I get there

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


As far as the nasty build up goes I like to use carb cleaner or starting fluid.  Put it in a rubber bin or bucket and spray the shit out of it.  The gunk falls right off, I use a small brush as well. 

Wipe It down good with wd-40 when you are done.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I wont need to take the head apart?  (that would be nice)  I'm thinking the rings were going bad and then the buildup just held the valves open?  I do have the top end gasket kit but if I dont need in for the head, I'd rather not take that apart and get into the valves.  I will check the clearance with the valve tool i got when its all back together.  Carb cleaner is exactly what I was going to ask about for the buildup lol  I'll make sure to get everything oiled down before it goes back together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m not sure about the build up holding the valves open. I don’t think that would be the case.   You can check the clearance but you won’t be able to check the valve seals visually so I would think having the head off would be the most ideal time to change the seals.  It would really suck to find out your seals are bad after all this work. So I would change them.  But that’s up to you.   

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I could sit here and explain it to you but your better off going to you tube and seeing how it’s done. It’s not hard at all and you won’t damage the valves.   Just make sure that you pot the valve back in the same hole it came from.   I mentioned in my earlier posts about getting a tool that helps you compress the valve.  You can buy one for about $15 on amazon or go to your local auto store and rent one etc.   

Clean  the valve good before you put it back in. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Sorry I didn't respond before you tore into the motor but I bet your fue/airl mixture screw in bottom of bowl was just off a bit sounded like original poblem was running lean this would explain the burnt metal smell the blue smoke just a lil bit and the impossible cold start problems. I had same prob with my 87 atv of my neighbors he said it hadn't ran without a bogg on top end since he got it 15 yrs ago after cleaning the carb it would start bogging at 3/4 throttle to pinned in last gear like it was running outta fuel if I continued to hold throttle it would die and be hard to start but if I let off it would go back to idle. Turned bottom air screw in to seat then back out to 1 3/4 turns it was previously out 2 1/2 turns immidiately fixed. My neighbor said this is best it's ever ran and he's had it in three different shops trying to fix it. The new carbs you buy today are cheap Chinese version of the real aluminum cast that came on it I would clean original and set properly and stay away from ethenol mixed gas only run 100% this will solve your rusted issues when storing either absolutely full tank of gas with fuel shut off and bowl drained with a lil seafoam placed in bowl and in cylinder or completely empty tank when there is room for moister to get in tank with ethenol mixed gas the ethenol pulls moister in as it seperates from the gas and settles to bottom of tank so like I said all the way filled or all the way empty is storing. I always use seafoam instead of stabil it last all year just but it in the can that you fill toys with each time getting gas and your good

 

  • Like 1
  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your valve seals were bad you would've been getting smoke thru every gear when twisting the throttle not just top end 5 the gear. Blue smoke running hotter than should top end is a lean running condition to much air not enough fuel

 

  • Like 1
  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks! I will definitely check to see if adjusting the air screw in helps if its still having issues when its back together.  If that was the problem, then yes that would have been nice to know before I tore it apart and spent 500+labor on it, but thanks for saying something now rather than never!👍

And it was mainly smoking(blue) if I used choke when I started it cold-  no smoke after it warmed up, just that burnt smell.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And I could peg it as much as I wanted and it didnt choke out or cough--  it just died when stopped after pushing it in 4th and 5th.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/26/2018 at 6:13 PM, Frank Angerano said:

Sorry for the brief post I was at work. The needle is located in the slide.  Pull the small V shaped clip that holds the needle inside the rubber/plastic slide The needle will come out when you turn it upside down.   

That needle should have a round e clip and small grooves as well.   It’s self explanatory at that point.  Just need to figure out where to set it and remember where it was before you pull the clip off.  

Let me know if you see that.  

As for the top end the symptoms you are having what sounds like the typical dead top end problems.  

This is caused by either beating the shit out of the bike by over reving or pushing the bike to hard in the wrong gear. For instance going up a hill in a higher gearing.  Over time these things will hurt the engine. That’s my guess as to what’s going on. 

Have you ordered the parts ? 

 

after thinking about it, I did run it pretty hard- I thought these things were bulletproof... lol  when I visited my friend in AL, he clocked me going 45mph on it behind his truck-  I thought that was slow, because he could get his stock sportsman with a jacked up carb to 70mph (no joke).......untill one of my friends told me that a manual quad wasn't supposed to be able to go that fast.😎

Edited by slabach

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Forum Topics

    • By 4tracker
      I'll keep looking/asking until I find someone that's in same boat, or atv as I'm in lol Well maybe not the exact same atv, any atv would be ok lol
      Riding skills from slow poke to flat WOT is fine with me, as long as were out there in Gods country!! Get in touch before the season starts to get acquainted before hand! Thanks, Steve


    • By Quadtriumph
      Was looking for people to tell me some of the better trails around provo? Maybe meet up and ride. Thanks
    • By verve
      Does anybody know of some great experienced rider trails in SW Idaho? I ride all the places everbody knows about, but I am looking for a new awesome trail to ride.
    • By pokerl0w
      this bike! did this guy sucker me or what.. ok, looks like this means something is bent that I do not see or one rod is longer vs the other?
      how long do you think this would last before it ripped into the tire? this is the right side, left side tire clears no problem

       
       
      I can not find them on www.kawasakipartshouse.com
       
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Wolds Alpacas
      I have a Kawasak i KLF185 Bayou which is in bits - bought as such and never managed to get going.  I have not had a spark and tried two OEM CDI's on it.  I have replaced the coil and plug and checked the wiring to CDI.  I have also tried to use other CDI's (DC ones) run from the battery.  Nothing, still no spark, so I have managed to find a new pickup coil and hope that resolves things - any input on this would be appreciated.
    • By pokerl0w
      this bike! did this guy sucker me or what.. ok, looks like this means something is bent that I do not see or one rod is longer vs the other?
      how long do you think this would last before it ripped into the tire? this is the right side, left side tire clears no problem

       
       
      I can not find them on www.kawasakipartshouse.com
       
    • By pokerl0w
      Bought this 2 weeks ago.. Starts up fine, seems to run fine. But I am clueless. I tried to pull something small in high gear mode, unknowingly <- n00b
      There' s a small oil leak from the back/bottom end. maybe 1-2 tablespoons/day after riding it some, otherwise maybe 1tsp/day. I was trying to start it at least every other day (not garaged, gets below freezing)
       
      The main issue (aside from full rebuild *see below) is I am seeing smoke from the top of the engine and there is that oil leak in the back. I am hearing something as well, not quite sure what, hope someone else with trained ears can tell me it's just the sweet-uniq'saki
      If I can get through the winter plowing around, then I can start on my rebuild. Looking to use OEM where possible, aftermarket when makes most sense - I do not care about speed, I like torque .. hauling and crawling.
       
      I am also sharing pictures of the oil. And yes, there is some metal in that oil.. which is just magic fairy dust from tinker fairies say my girls, and I can keep beating without issue 😬
      Metaloil:

      (image taken with flash:)
       
      Here's the smoke:
      20190113_105012
      Here's engine (left) and back/muffler:
      20190113_104854.mp4
       
      TLDR;
      sad disclaimer: bought this beast from a local seller. this is my first and after having it 2-weeks, riding maybe 1 hour... I got took. I'll tell ya'll how much I paid after we chat about'er for a bit so I do not get crushed.  I am not a mech but I have wrenched many'o'things from sparks, water pumps, swapping clutches .. but not bikes or small engines all v6+ just saying I know something, but lots more of nothing!  I do like the bayou series and (think?) need 4x4 for the snow and trials here in the Sierras. I want to swap the frame in the spring, as this one is not only bent but has some suspect welding
       
    • By tomlad
      hi all first post  just found forum and the manuals / wiring diagram BIG THANK YOU
      im struggling to find the vin number on my frame? I m told left side of frame , lower, nr. in front of the gear pedal ?? haven't found it yet , is it numbers stamped on the frame or a commission plate ??
      main prob. no spark no power to coil , off to study the wiring info I've just found
      thanks again. tom
    • By 220Bayou
      Hi everyone,  I'm about to get my first ATV, 02 bayou 220.
      Neighbor said I could have it if I fix it, Carburetor problems, and needs a new ignition switch. last ran 2 years ago, said he changed the oil in it twice a year and never ride it hard.
      Hope I got me a good ride.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×