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JacobSlabach

1997 Kawasaki Bayou 300 2x4 (klf300b) Runs Bad

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You can.  I don’t don’t use one only bc I have done it so many times.  If your not fimillar then maybe so.   It’s just a matter of squeezing the rings as they slide into the cylinder head.  The bottom of the cylinder head is tapered for the rings to slide in. 

There is a tool that goes on the drill that hones the cylinder. Just to clean it up. Maybe take a look at that.  

Spray the exhaust bolts now with penetration oil so they have time to soak.  

Just be patient with the work. Don’t push to hard.  Things break and you can get frustrated and drink a lot of beer. 

Oh and music helps too! 

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ok so this thing has me confused now:  I was out riding a couple days ago and I turned it off briefly to do something and when I tried to start it again, it would turn over fine, but wouldn't fire at all.  I assumed that it blew a sp since it had done it before-  new sp in it and no difference.  I just checked compression agian and it is reading 80psi since it stopped running..   :frown:  It was 60psi when it was running

I assume I just go ahead with the plan of replacing the top end seals, piston, rings, and cylinder?

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So yes I would proceed with the top end work. There is def something going on as well as low compression.

As for the needle in the carb. The blown up detail may not show the clip adjustment.  Pull the vacuum slide out and the needle.  There should be an “E” clip and a few grooves. 

 

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Sorry for the brief post I was at work. The needle is located in the slide.  Pull the small V shaped clip that holds the needle inside the rubber/plastic slide The needle will come out when you turn it upside down.   

That needle should have a round e clip and small grooves as well.   It’s self explanatory at that point.  Just need to figure out where to set it and remember where it was before you pull the clip off.  

Let me know if you see that.  

As for the top end the symptoms you are having what sounds like the typical dead top end problems.  

This is caused by either beating the shit out of the bike by over reving or pushing the bike to hard in the wrong gear. For instance going up a hill in a higher gearing.  Over time these things will hurt the engine. That’s my guess as to what’s going on. 

Have you ordered the parts ? 

 

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I might be wrong, but  when testing compression aren't you suppose to have the throttle wide open?

I do that when testing compression.

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I’ve tested both ways and got the same readings. Not sure why it’s said that it makes a difference.  But I’ve done it all my life with the throttle open or closed. No difference in the reading.  

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I have ordered them and some have come, some haven't yet...  I have the oem carb in so I'll start rebuilding that soon.  Right now I'm waiting on another project in my shop to start on the bayou.  As to the compression testing, I have never heard anything about where the throttle is supposed to be.  The directions that came with the test kit didn't mention throttle at all.

16 hours ago, Maggie Hall said:

I bet your having a Vacuum line issue too 

Explanation??

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A few ppl posted compression test videos on YouTube saying to open the throttle. It should make no difference.  Ok brother when you are ready to tear into that thing we are here! 

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Another question just for general knowledge:  Does it ever matter what temperature it is when you're working on an engine?  (my shop is not heated)  :S

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Other then the additional pain when you smash your knuckles with wrenches 🤬I would say no!  Maybe when it comes to any silicones or gasket adhesives.... they recommend temps above 50 deg to use but I would think you are good to go! 

Maybe a small heater, they have plug in type and the small desiel salamander type. 

Shit maybe a small pellet stove would be cool ! 

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lol  Yea my shop aint that big (its 8x17)..  I would defiantly try to find warmer days to work on it, but I was just wondering if there's a limit.  Thanks!

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how do i get the chain lose so I can take the head off?  I already took the tensioner out.  Do I take the cam sprocket off?

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nvm I got everything off (head and cylinder)  The cylinder looked like it was in perfect condition (absolutely no scratching anywhere).  The top of the piston was covered in black, crusty, loose soot and likewise in the head and around the valves.  What should I do next?

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