Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Squirrel

2000 Kawa Bayou 220, Carb issues?

Recommended Posts

So I bought a Bayou 220 as me 'Black Friday' score, and was informed it has carb issues.. 

A little history from the previous owner: they suspected the carb was bad as it was 'running like crap' so they did a rebuid kit on it. Didn't fix issue so they took it to a shop where the tech installed an aftermarket(?) carb, but had to modify the throttle cable to get it to work. Quad ran great at 1/4 throttle, but anything above that and the throttle would stick and the machine would run like garbage again.

What I know and think: I hear carb issues are common and fairly easy to fix. Also, I think they used the 'universal' rebuild kit that claims '88-'11, but the jets and such were different from '00-'03 (gaskets, etc. appear to be the same) so their original attempt was a good idea, just not good enough.

They did give me the original carburetor with the 4-wheeler, but it has the wrong internals. I'm thinking if I can get the right jets, springs, etc for the rebuild, I should be able to get this thing running right. Of course, I still need to charge the battery back up, change all the fluids, replace fuel lines, plug and wire.. ya know, the basics for a machine that's been sitting for roughly 9 months. lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Nice job on the history of the bike. The original carb is the best bet to get back to.  You can buy the rebuild kit with the jets for that year included with the kit

What modifications were done to the throttle cable ? Maybe a new one is in order if your going back to the original carb. 

Good luck and any questions you have surely can be answered here! 

Be sure to post some pics. 

👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Frank Angerano Thanks. I ordered a new kit w/ jets this morning so it'll be a week before I get into that.  Will have to look into the throttle cable a little more to see what's up there; or may just order a new one. lol

Did give it a good bath earlier and she don't look half bad (will have to get some more pics uploaded). Also did a little electrical chasing cause it's 'No Start/Crank' right now. Think it might be a bad relay, but had to run some errands and haven't made it back out to the garage to mess with it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good.  That’s the first thing I do is wash the filth off! I always pull the plastics as well. 

With regard to wiring any help you may need let me know. I just spent the last few days absorbing the wiring manual for that bike. 

Should be a good machine when you get it all back together! 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I got it cranking over! Went to AutoZone and they were able to cross the OE relay ($40 on amazon) to Duralast part #19829 for $11.99. HOWEVER, turns out it's corroded wiring connections in the starter switch. Gonna go ahead and keep the new relay in it and keep the old one as an emergency backup. 

As far as washing all the grime off, I cleaned the exterior,the tool compartment (still has the factory tools and pouch), the battery compartment, and the entire seat. Lots of dirt, leaves and countless spiders; almost considered burning it over that last one. I also pulled and cleaned the fuel tank cover, front fender cover and handle bar cover. Eventually, I'd like to pull the rest of the body off and clean the undersides of all that, as well as power wash the engine and chassis. But that's later down the road.. when it's warmer. lol

I do plan on going through much of the wiring to check for damage and wear, as well as check, clean and grease as many of the connections as I can. I do plan on putting some brighter lights on it, and possibly converting the existing ones to LED.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


So, an update on the Bayou... carb kit came in (All Balls kit for '00-02') and immediately noticed the needle jet only has one groove but the part # on it matches OEM. I went ahead and used the kit to rebuild the carb (note: found out the float was previously installed upside down), replaced the fuel line and filter (note: fuel  switch is seeping and needs replaced), and installed the carb. I did set the air mix and float to the manual specs, as well as adjust the throttle cable all the way out. 

Unfortunately, the bike runs like crap. It will not stay running without the choke set to 50% or more, and if you throttle too fast, it chokes out and dies. If you ease into the throttle engine runs smooth up to about 50%; after that it either chokes or floods (not sure yet) and dies. I did try adjusting the air/fuel mix a little but it didn't help. Will add I was running it without the air-box so I know it's not restricted there. Anyways, it was getting cold and late so I called it a night and will attempt to trouble shoot in a couple hours when it's light outside and warmed up. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

One last thing - I did flush the tank and am running new fuel. And, after I warmed the engine up, I drained and replaced the oil and filter so at least that's checked off. lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work on the bike!

So the air box should be on the bike when making the adjustment to the air fuel mixture screw.  Did you turn the screw all the way in until snug and then 2-1/4 turns out ? I had the same issue in my 220 last week and finally got it dialed in.  It took me about a half hour to get it perfect. But the air box has to be installed and the lid on the air box. 

The float on the bowl, What do you mean you adjusted to spec? That tab on that float that sends the needle up to close fuel off to the carb may be adjusted to far up. The carb will be starved for gas so make sure you didn’t do that.  

I always take the carb out attach a clean hose on the fuel line and hold the carb up with out the bowl on it. I blow into it and lift the bowl with my finger and when it gets just about all the way up it shuts and I can’t blow through the hose any longer. That’s something I’ve learned over time as to finding a sweet spot and to not overflow. I know they say there’s a spec on where it should be but sometime you have to have a feel for this sort of thing. 

New spark plug ? Have you checked the rubber boot that the carburetor attaches to for any cracks that might be sucking air in?  And check your spark quality while you have the plug out.  

Let me know how you make out please. 

  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, Frank Angerano said:

Nice work on the bike!

So the air box should be on the bike when making the adjustment to the air fuel mixture screw.  Did you turn the screw all the way in until snug and then 2-1/4 turns out ? I had the same issue in my 220 last week and finally got it dialed in.  It took me about a half hour to get it perfect. But the air box has to be installed and the lid on the air box. 

The float on the bowl, What do you mean you adjusted to spec? That tab on that float that sends the needle up to close fuel off to the carb may be adjusted to far up. The carb will be starved for gas so make sure you didn’t do that.  

I always take the carb out attach a clean hose on the fuel line and hold the carb up with out the bowl on it. I blow into it and lift the bowl with my finger and when it gets just about all the way up it shuts and I can’t blow through the hose any longer. That’s something I’ve learned over time as to finding a sweet spot and to not overflow. I know they say there’s a spec on where it should be but sometime you have to have a feel for this sort of thing. 

New spark plug ? Have you checked the rubber boot that the carburetor attaches to for any cracks that might be sucking air in?  And check your spark quality while you have the plug out.  

Let me know how you make out please. 

  

Good to know on the air box. I left it off as the filter needs cleaned and it makes it a little easier to access the carb. But will reinstall before making any adjustments this morning. I did start at 2-1/4 turns but it ran way worse; ended up at 1-1/2. Will reset once the air box is back in though.

As for setting the float level, the float was previously installed upside down and the tab was bent over 45 degrees, so I knew it wasn't right. The service manual calls for initial setting to be at 21.8mm from the housing to the top of the float, and I was going to adjust the level (as per service manual) once I got it running. But, I got too exited over it actually firing up and forgot. And your method sounds a lot easier than the one in the manual.

Also, when I did the compression test, I replaced the spark plug and verified that I did have spark. It was pretty fouled and needed changed. Plus I wanted to increase my odds that it would actually fire up and not have to chase other no-start issues. lol

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Umm yea, so I screwed up. Forgot to check the 00-02 supplement in the manual and so the float is set at the wrong height :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Ok I would reset the tab in the area it was originally and go with my method of the float settings.  

I looked at where my screw is on the bike and 1-3/4 is where I have mine set but all bikes are different but you are 100% in the right range for that bike.   When that float goes at about 95% to the top the pin closes.  

Blow into it to verify that its properly closing just to be safe anyway.  

You have to realize that the bike has to be adjusted as if it were rideable and completely put back together for instance you would not ride the bike without the air box so it has to be in place when making adjustments. 

Your doing great.  Taking a minute and stepping away really helps out. As it can get frustrating.   

Once you get it figured out and dialed in it’s going to run like a champ! 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

UPDATE: Wow it's been forever and a day since I last was on here. lol Anyway, too may things kept pushing the Bayou back on hold but I finally got it going after a little more carb work and replacing the fuel selector switch and fuel lines. Took it out on a day ride with a friend (in case it broke down) and did great! Don't know about fuel mileage, but was out for around 6 hrs of almost non-stop trail riding and used almost half a tank. Had it out again for 4th of July on a camping trip and still ran good. It did have 1 incident when I opened it up on a gravel road; was clipping along in 5th gear and it started sputtering like it was running out of fuel. Lasted about 15 seconds and then cleared up. Other than that (and that it needs tires and shocks) it performs great.

Am looking at doing a 22 mile OHV trail up in the mountains soon as soon but not sure when yet. Oh, and am waiting for my winch kit to show up. May be a little over kill for a 220, but if/when I upgrade, I'll transfer the winch to the new one. For now, this little 220 is working great for everything I need.. the real test comes in Oct when hunting season starts hahaha

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice job on the bayou. I had a bayou 220 years ago, bought it new at the time. Took it riding a lot and held up everywhere. Here's an old pick of me on it about 15 or 16 years ago...I never had a winch by my buddy bought his at the same time and put one one. It was convenient for when we got stuck!

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By KJINTF
      Been slow in starting up, in the recent past it would start up in <1/2 second of the button press with a snap. Now it takes several seconds of cranking to get going. Once going runs as it always did. Replaced the plug no change. Battery is good.
      Before I tear it apart and look things over was hoping others might have had the same experience and have a quick fix for me
      Thanks in advance for any and all suggestions to get this old machine starting quickly again as it has for 20 years.  
    • By Kelby 746
      I have a 1987-89 (not sure on the year) Kawasaki bayou 300 that has electrical issues, I have replaced the entire harness with a proven good/used one, new CDI box, and two brand new coils, problem is that it tests no charge at the pickup coil, so I replaced and tested again with a so called good one that had been salvaged out of a blown up 220/250 (not sure which, the left side cover is smaller than my 300) in Missouri. It has a proven good OEM stator. I am trying to avoid buying a new start and pickup coil because it is so expensive so if anyone has a suggestion please let me know.
    • By lizalee
      i bought a kwasaki bayou 220 and the person i got it from lost the key so they wired it to bypass the key start to use the pull rope but the wires got unhooked some how now i dont have a clue how to wire it back up to pull rope start. does any1 have a pic of the wires or help me im a newby
    • By JCH
      Hi there
      I am in need of a manual for my KLF 300 Bayou 4x2 . I've found others on here for the 4x4 model, but was wondering if I need a separate 4x2 manual. Does anyone know?
    • By Monika Novakov
      1988 Kawasaki 220 Bayou trying to remove generator/ starter 1way clutch cover to be able to replace 1way clutch. All bolts are removed case cover is dripping what oil that remains...but I can't get the cover to come off..what am I missing? Thx in advance.
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By lizalee
      i bought a kwasaki bayou 220 and the person i got it from lost the key so they wired it to bypass the key start to use the pull rope but the wires got unhooked some how now i dont have a clue how to wire it back up to pull rope start. does any1 have a pic of the wires or help me im a newby
    • By Monika Novakov
      1988 Kawasaki 220 Bayou trying to remove generator/ starter 1way clutch cover to be able to replace 1way clutch. All bolts are removed case cover is dripping what oil that remains...but I can't get the cover to come off..what am I missing? Thx in advance.
    • By frostyflammable
      Hello all, wanted to sign up for this site as I am sure I will have lots of questions soon. One of my coworkers has given me a free Bayou 220 that does not run, I was told it needs a new wiring harness, however I cannot confirm any of that yet.

      Next weekend I am going to drive up to the place and pick it up and get some hands on but right now trying to find some service manuals so that I can trace and find out what is going on. My plan is if I can get it to run to do a full restoration and use it to putt around the trails around my house.

      I have some experience with small engines, currently have six mini bikes and a buggy with a GY6 motor that I brought back to life and I am hoping I can do that same with this. Really hoping the Bayou has good compression and it's only a electrical problem.

      In the mean time I am going to be reading this forum to learn as much as I can and hopefully find a service manual. I have attached the only pic I have of it so far.

      Thanks!
      Daniel

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...