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Mike Foreman

New to Quads and lovin it!

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Been a motorsport guy for a long time and moved to the country a few months ago...got two quads- 2018 Yamaha 700 4x4 and Polaris 110 Outlaw for the kiddos.  Been great but that polaris has been a maintenance suck.  Brakes suck, electrical system suck.  Currently it is dead - I will say my son rides it just about every day and LOVES it.  Fuses are good and Key switch is ok, battery ok,

Going to start to dive into wiring but need a manual to start tracing wires... so this is one of n threads to start here...  

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Welcome to Quadcrazy mike! You will find what you need here to get your bike/bikes squared away and running again.  As a new member you are required to have at least 10 posts on the site before you can download a manual.   Which I’m sure if your into the quads like you say then it won’t  be a problem as this site/forum has a ton to offer in technical support as well as member support. Some of which  have had the same type or similar problems and can really help. 

 

 

 

 

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sounds good, I've seen the wiring has been a problem and ignition switch- looking for some direction on components that go south - kids been in a ton of mud lately... 

 

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So what’s going on as far as the wiring? Dead, crank but no spark, spark but not cranking with the starter ? 

What year is the bike ?

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2016 and no lights/no power but battery, fuses and ignition switch are good... seems to be wiring but not sure of any other safety switches on these little ATV's... last time it was a fuse, but checked them all and all blocks have power. 

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So here’s  a stupid question. That bike should have a tether switch on the back ? Have you checked that by any chance ? 

1 to see if the switch is swamped and soaked

2 the wires going to it are not burnt up or corroded? 

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Your ignition switch should have a red wire going to it ? If so is there 12v+ on that wire?The red wire when the ignition turns on should send 12 v + to the brown wire which goes to a splice of about 10 brown wires and that should distribute power to the rest of the bike. 

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ground is fine, checked that- power to the ignition switch but then it goes back into the wire bundle from there... kind of where I need a schematic... will look at the teather switch - it's a 2016 and kept pretty clean except for this past week it was raining a ton and he got it really muddy... 

teather switch is ok as well. that is by the ignition on the 110 outlaw. 

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There are two I think.  One by handle bars and one in the rear I think?   

On the ignition what color wires have power? Should only be the red coming in and the brown going  out when key is on.   

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so is there a main relay/switch for the power distribution? I have power at the switch, safety teather is fine, fuses are fine and power there... checked power at a relay on the front and it has power but didn't check the relay - anyone know the resistance between connections? other ideas? 

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would the starter relay cause the lights on the dash not to come on? I have a small amout of resistance on the secondary pins of the starter relay but infinate on the two large terminals.  I think it may be fried... 

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Off you can snap a few pics of the relay and any other connections ignition switch etc and post them.  What color wires are you looking at ? 

My feeling is It’s a power failure someplace in a safety maybe ? Neutral safety switch or a soaked relay.  

Yes the relay would stop the dash lights from coming on.

That relay has four wires on it ? Colors ? 

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 looks like it.  4 pin battery hot on one side but not the other - .08 Ohms on the smaller pin between them.  Open on the larger (switch open) 

 

I should be able to check across the L/W / G/Y when I press the starter switch right? 

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Yes you can jump the two with the key on for a second and see if the dash lights come on 

The brake handle has to be in and locked also as a safety I think ? 

The two outer larger pins on that relay plug 

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So this relay. If you were to put 12 volts on these two tabs the relay should make a click sound.  Then with a tester the two smaller tabs should have continuity across them. 

Power comes off the continuity will be lost.  

391B2AED-4691-4E26-B928-8E13C4E2E193.jpeg

I want you to be sure what your jumping out so you don’t blow any fuses.  

When power is applied to that relay it closes the instrument/starting circuit so you have dash lights and a start circuit. The two smaller tabs that have continuity are the two wires you would jump to see if the bike fires. 

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