Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Spartacus Stroppel

00 kawasaki prairie 300 carb

Recommended Posts

has anyone tried these cheap carbs from china? the original carburetor has been rebuilt by a shop right before i bought this quad and i think the float is shot the work done was way sub par... the price of the seal kit was as much as the whole carb... i have used the china 150cc engines with no problems... and have used the harbor freight 212cc engines on mini bikes.. so im hoping to hear so one has used them on this model with ease.... if no one replies i will update in a day or 2 i got the carb it looks very well made. has the carb sencer and warmer all ready installed..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Hey @Spartacus Stroppel Welcome to Quadcrazy. I’ve tried the China carbs. Here’s my take.  They look great, exact same as far as appearance, have all the sensors and choke set ups.   But they don’t work 100%.  There are flat spots in the throttle when you ride, any time I’ve tried them (twice) it’s been where I would say 80% good.   

How can the seal kit be so expensive for the oem carb ? Have you checked eBay and Amazon?  Also eBay for a used oem carb? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes seal kit with needle and seat is $15 and i need a float which is another $20. the slide is scratched looks like someone cleaned it with 80 grit sand paper... so i found (ebay) carb for this exact model 4 wheeler with sencer,warmer ect ect. for $42.. if i only get 80% performance out of it i will be ok with that as long as it dont leak gas everywhere and light me up like a roman candle...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well got the carb in the mail today. man this thing looks nice...only thing i dont like is the slide being plastic but everything is going that way. pics of what i ordered... bolting it on here in a couple hours.. :) crossing fingers 80% and no fuel leaks i will be happy...lol

20181229_175005.jpg

20181229_174833.jpg

20181229_174855.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


so got it on.. like you said flat spot in throttle... needle leaked to top.it off.. so i pulled it and pulled it apart. adjusted float level. notice it was running lean up 1/2 throttle... so i pulled the jets out they are way to small.. so i am waiting on the proper jets i had to order... i contacted the seller of this carb and aaid qhat do you want to do.. they refunded me the purchase price of the carb...as it was not even close and specifically listed for this quad and engine size... so more to come...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

Sorry about your troubles. Unfortunately this is usually the case with the cheap carbs and many other parts you find on the big internet sites. Your best bet is to clean and rebuild the original OEM carburetor.  Average price on a complete kit is $25 or so. As long as the float and carburetor body are ok, its worth spending a few extra bucks. In my shop a fair price for cleaning, rebuild and install on that model is about$100. Carburetors need to be tuned and that involves jetting and adjustments. Jets for the cheap carbs usually don't match OEM specs. Creating even more headaches.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ya i got the oem back on now. i used the fuel warmer and harness off the new carb on oem carb. i adjusted float to stop leak on oem carb... but now i have a dead spot right off throttle... i think the idle mixture screw not adjusted right...  so im going to.make a adapter using a harley idle screw and a speedo cable so i adjust it like you can adjust the idle on the butterfly... and not rip the whole thing apart to get to the idle mixture screw..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest

Don't adjust the float so the fuel level is to low. This will cause a lean 1/4 to mid throttle hesitation. The lower the fuel is in the bowl the farther it has to travel to get into the intake tract when you throttle up. If the fuel level is to high it can cause a rich condition in the same spot because the fuel is much closer to the intake tract. Sounds like the needle vale should be replaced. I can't recall the float height off the top of my head but make sure it's adjusted to that spec. Also make sure the air box and lid are installed and fit together like they should. It all works together. Even the clamps that hold the air box lid on can cause hesitations if one or more are missing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yep did all that.. the fuel was leaking out of the float bowel for being to full.. (missed adjusted from previous owner) it all so had a worn spot on float where needle hit so i polished it smooth. the float adjustment by manual is dum.. i adjusted like i have before with my rm250c Mikuni carb. its only a bog spot right of idle after that is runs real good. and to adjust idle mix.. you have to remove carb on this model as it is located bottem center after butterfly and is recessed into the carburetor.. making it all most impossibleto adjust... 

o ya this carb was supposedly cleaned and adjust at a atv shop... but leaked fuel, had dead spot and had the harness to warmer and temp sender laying on trans not hooked up before i started fixing it...

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Guest

Carburetor tuning isn't for everyone. I think it's becoming a lost art to be honest........Just trying to help. Best of luck to you!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

and thank you for the pionters kent... and everyone... i have been known to miss things ;) either by not knowing or just in a hurry. i would have to agree tuning of carbs is dieing. even with me. i been doing more efi building on stuff then carb anymore (mostly in car stuff)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Reece Bowen
      x   just bought this expedition 425 and the Speedo needle does not work. The lights work for the shift indcator. So is this an electronic Speedo or cable? Is there a way to fix it or will I have to replace the unit? Thanks for any help you can provide.
    • By DUBLT
      Looking to purchase a windshield for my ATV, suggestions of what to buy with quality in mind and will fit without doing any modifications. 
    • By Mark Hill
      Hi everyone bought my son a project wheeler and got it up and running but it won’t go in reverse.  It’s a 2002 2003 bombardier rally 200. I have been searching for causes on line had have a couple ideas what it may be but still looking  for advice and help
    • By Ted Aregi
      I've got a king quad 750cc has anyone converted the fuel pump relay to a stronger fuel pump relay on there king quad?
    • By josephnbl91
      My four wheeler when i first got it seemed like it was very slow when i first got it and it had no throttle response so i replaced the belt and cleaned all of the rollers thinking that would solve the problem from what i read on the forums. well it turned out that it wasnt. so i went to the next thing i took out the injector to check it out and i seen that there was a tiny bit of debree in it so i cleaned it and it seemed to improve a little bit. but still did not solve the problem. i later found out how to find the trouble codes out from the lcd screen using a paper clip on the diagnostic port and it showed the code which stood for no codes C00. i also forgot to mention that the throttle position censor is working perfect. before i started all of this the four wheeler ran just not to its potential. after my friend and i did the trouble code test the bike wouldnt even start anymore and the injector would spray for a few seconds for the start up then it stops and the fuel injection light comes on and blinks. the four wheeler wouldnt start anymore. i took it over to the local shop and they hooked it up to the computer to see if there was any codes and it still showed it was free of codes. they hooked it up to the fuel pressure gauge and we found that it was making 22 pounds and it should be making around 43. i then bought a new fuel pump and put it in. it now starts and runs for a few seconds and then it stalls out and the fuel injection light comes on again. which then leads me to think it is the ecu now but i want to be sure before i invest around $500 more into it. any opinions on whether or not anyone thinks this is the problem or if they have had a similar problem before would be really appreciated. sorry for writing a novel and not spelling very well. also i forgot to put the year in the title it is a 2007
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...