1993 Kawasaki Bayou 300c 4x4 Tie Rod and Shifting Issues

[pokerl0w]

this bike! did this guy sucker me or what.. ok, looks like this means something is bent that I do not see or one rod is longer vs the other?

how long do you think this would last before it ripped into the tire? this is the right side, left side tire clears no problem

 

 

I can not find them on www.kawasakipartshouse.com
 

[pokerl0w]

perhaps this is not the rod, looks like the piece it connects to. I need to pull the wheel. this thing is missing pins and such 😕 heh well, look at all my improvements I'll have in no time! 💪

[Frank Angerano]

That part you think is bent is not really likely to bent.  It’s more likely to snap or break i should say since it’s a casted metal piece.  I would def pull the wheel to see if something is  missing like a spacer or a blown/collapsed bearing or the wrong rim maybe? 

[JacobSlabach]

yea some folks are like that... just out to scam people..  I got screwed on the bayou 300 I bought too.

[pokerl0w]

1 hour ago, JacobSlabach said:

yea some folks are like that... just out to scam people..  I got screwed on the bayou 300 I bought too.

i don't mind someone painting over a dent or using non-oem screws and parts, etc. but this guy said he rebuilt things - I bet he bought a chinese carb, new tires and that's it. claims he bought it from auction. I can not find any vin 😕 heh yeah.. well I'm learning tons, which is fun since it's not forced schoolwork heh

 

5 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

That part you think is bent is not really likely to bent.  It’s more likely to snap or break i should say since it’s a casted metal piece.  I would def pull the wheel to see if something is  missing like a spacer or a blown/collapsed bearing or the wrong rim maybe? 

I'm hoping wrong rim. You are right, that steering knuckle is thick metal and lined by 2 bolts, I do not think that can be adjusted. Must be wrong rims or tires (probably both).

 

[pokerl0w]

tire off..

about to switch left/right to see if I see any difference. right now, I can't tell other than that rod end looks like it should be replaced and if you want to clean and keep rust off cast metal, rub a tire on it for about 2-3 hours

 

while I'm rotating, can anyone tell me more about this steering knuckle/plate setup (again this is right front wheel)?:

 

Edited January 19, 2019 by pokerl0w
forgot polite words

[Frank Angerano]

Does there look like any welding was done on any of the parts ? 

You are going to have to turn the wheel in both directions. And while doing so take a few seconds and try to wiggle the parts on that front end for movement. Also look behind the rotor and compare one rotor to the other sidde. Also clearance between the back plate. Compare both sides take some pics and post.  Maybe we will see something that stands out.   

[pokerl0w]

yeah I def see differences. looks like different hubs. I have not measured the mounting bolts

 

[Frank Angerano]

Ok so take some measurements and see what’s didfent.  Feel around a bit see what’s wrong.   You will find it. 

[pokerl0w]

yes perhaps it is not the color/nut there, but the compression of the hub. I recall doing something like this with brakes/calipers. 

I measured and left side appears to be compressed in a bit more.. might take photos and upload to confirm what I am seeing.

[Frank Angerano]

Yep maybe a collapsed bearing.  Only thing that gets me is the rotor would have some play in and out.  

[pokerl0w]

 this steering knuckle is not the same as the other. I would think they should be same height. The right is about 1/4" or so taller and further back.

I do not have an image with tape, here's best I have right now without correct angles.. when I measured, however, that is 1 thing. Another is the distance from the rotor to end of wheel bolt is also about 1/8" or maybe 3/16 difference between the two. i do not see how compression could play into those measurements. it's all metal 😕 I need a either a larger right wheel n tire that'd look sweet heh or I have to find a correct right buckle which most seem to sell as complete  housing

 

left side:

right (rubbing) side:

[pokerl0w]

15 minutes ago, pokerl0w said:

... I need a either a larger right wheel n tire that'd look sweet heh or I have to find a correct right buckle which most seem to sell as complete  housing

 

[Frank Angerano]

So most likely it was wrecked and another year knuckle was put on you think ?

You can’t do a larger  front wheel.   They all have to be the same size or you will destroy the transmission.  

Edited January 20, 2019 by Frank Angerano

[pokerl0w]

well now I'm confused. ebay shows me left/right knuckles and they appear to be different shapes/sizes.
I can not see it on partzilla/others (yet). still searching.

and yea wrecked/salvaged bike I'm thinking.. with the damage being mostly on that side (it seems) and maybe he did not know the year and bought 95 and it's 93? (I'm assuming it as well). although I thought those years almost everything was identical for the  bayou 300 4x4. 

[Frank Angerano]

Unless it was a 400 Bayou part that was put on? Any other damage that you can see on the frame ?

[pokerl0w]

in terms of damage. there is damage in various places. I would think the right side has something but I have not spotted a bend in the actual frame on that front/right side. however, if there is - it should be helping in this situation? or not at all. I have to figure out the wheel size or try my luck with other parts as I can not seem to order just the knuckle and gl with size specs from ebay parts.

 

here's some more photos if you see anything. my best guess is I bought a salvaged unit. the guy chopped the vin and welded in where it used to be (or maybe the person before, who knows). they guy I got from claims he bought off auction and flips toys. this stated as to give some perspective to my struggle in finding details that can help us.

 

 

there's no snow on my yard, I am bummed.  I can not sticker this and take to a trail and play (legally anyway) where there is snow. either I buy one that I can register and get a "green sticker" .. or I buy a frame and swap everything. I really feel like doing so as then I have zero question as to what I am working with. assuming the engine can mount into a range of years, which, I would get a 1994 frame based on my research and parts available. 

I read it takes a pro shop about 1.5 days to complete the job of swapping frames (bent frame and minor bolt on part damage also replaced). front and rear look pretty easy.. the center is where I fear I'll get lost in weeks of trouble.

[pokerl0w]

be cool if each part had a no. on it to reference 👍

well... either I buy 2 larger front wheels n tires.. and that is $220 at least 

or a new used right side and hope it's the correct size, no way to know based on 2d photos

https://www.ebay.com/itm/371492357629 <- this looks almost larger than what I have now. and seems expensive to me 😕 no returns, bah

this should be new? very expensive but have return option: 

Edited January 20, 2019 by pokerl0w

[Frank Angerano]

Quick question.  Have you put the wheel back on whole or in the air and see if the rim or axle is bent ? 

[pokerl0w]

if so, very little and it would have to be on both wheels the same I think as I tried the other tire (left) and same result. seems unlikely both wheels would have same bends 😕, right?
however ... axle. hmm how do I test (I'll have to start searching).

I think the brake or something is rubbing on the rotor, that's about all the sound there is when rotating manually. and they do spin

[Frank Angerano]

Rims not likely both bent but you never know if that thing was slammed down on the front wheels.  Is the wheel marked all the way around on the inside ? That would be a good indicator if the axle is bent or if it’s a constant rub then it would be more likely a wrong part or bearing issue axle in to far etc. 

[pokerl0w]

I hear you. esp with my 1st pick

re: wear .. looks like it is 100% but hard to tell. maybe not. about to take more pics...
while messing with it, it does appear that only 1 side might be off/bent. I could get clearance with 3 of the lugs semi tight, the 4th I had to leave loose.. hope to soon nail this root cause!

[Frank Angerano]

Put a few washers on to give you some clearance for now until you figure this out.

mean time you may find a new assembly on ebay depends on how much more you want to go for on this bike.   

[pokerl0w]

I'm not planning to flip bikes unless I have some hidden talent that surfaces once I get deep into the metal, and so far, no hammers have lit up or sang to me so .. 

I have day dreams to re-frame it, do a full amazing rebuild. saving money on parts that work , etc etc. I could also see me building this out pretty (make it look like you did it!!) and buy another that is ready to go. I'm not buying another unless it's 95% running and clean or ~$500 and have fun fixing.

guess a 3rd option is keep it for parts and look for another. I need to make room in my garage before I get too carried away anyway. I was thinking washers as well to see if I pick up on any other running issues. rear brakes appear to not work I just discovered. front works

[Frank Angerano]

Quick question I want to dumb this down a bit.  Are you sure it’s not just a tie rod thats bad ? Is the tire just hitting the tie rod ball or the knuckle as well ? 

[pokerl0w]

man I wish. I know it is hard to tell from most of the images, this one shows it best I think and I confirmed re-looking, pretty certain it's the knuckle : 

 

[Frank Angerano]

If it’s just an over sized part for a bigger bike pull the wheel off and get a grinder take a quarter inch if it’s on the knuckle only.  If it’s the tie rod also then your screwed and will have to swap it to the right one.  And that’s a two piece part it’s possable that the whole part does not have to be changed. Just the upper control arm where the tie rod lands.  Just a guess but would be a lot less labor.   

[pokerl0w]

oh boy... so I put 1/16" washers which seemed too thick, but I could get the nut on 100% and I get clearance.

I drag it out and try to start it, doesn't start. I put batt charger on .. still no start. Grab my jump pack.. still no go! WTF. Oh, engine stop switch lmfao 🤣 

I even put new cotter pins in where the wrong knuckle (too large) was missing from it's bolts.

Let it idle for a bit and as I started out it seemed wobbly. I went up a tiny hill and man it seemed strange. Crossed over to this spot I wanted to try that is "grey area" in terms of can/can't ride and I start hearing a squeak. Similar to the sound when the knuckle was rubbing on the tire. I hop off and look at both tires.. Now the left one was rubbing!? wth!!? well, this allstar mech <- not only had not tightened the left front tire lugs, I only had 2 on!! heheh 😱

Finally got it put together (in the field heh) and something is still off. I think it's tranny. I took more video/pics, now this thing is leaking good from a couple spots. I know the oil plug, but that's on me and we can skip.

Images/video coming.

Now, leaks and slipping aside, I was able to climb some small banks and do some small hillsides that were very fun and enjoyable and quite easily too - even though it is certainly not 100% bike

[pokerl0w]

does this look like tranny fluid?

would make sense, it is def slipping going into gear (1st) and sometimes back out.  the first time I noticed this, I put it into High gearing and it seemed to respond better.. I bet that means something

 

first image is bottom/front of the engine zoomed in tight, I will attach video but damn I hold it what seems like forever and still need more time. Imma have to start counting by alligators!

 

here it is not zoomed:

I can not believe this much is coming out in the other 2 places:

video link:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/r2CKd3TwTH9PJhhX6

 

oh! and the gas cap has the nipple damaged/cut. I need to fabricate something to help air it out.

until then, however, it is normal to have it splash out a touch if you do not have a tube from the cap?  never really ran down the tank, pooled up around the nipple (sorry no image!)

[JacobSlabach]

I say get your drain plug fixed and because if you're riding around, the oil can run all over the bottom of the engine and make it look like its leaking from several places..  As for trans fluid, there is none on those bikes if its like mine and from the look of it, it is.  On bayous, the engine and tranny are one piece and everything is oil-lubbed.  If you continue to have oil leaking issues from the bottom end after you get the drain plug fixed, you might have to consider a bottom end gasket set..  should be cheap, but I would have no clue how hard to replace..never gotten into the bottom of an engine much less a engine/trans.  As for the gas cap, yea mine did it too before I added a vent hose.  Bad setup as it still loses gas out the vent hose if im hitting rough terrain fast (always what I do) and the gas is sloshing around..

lol at one point come to think of it, I acually got gas squirted into my eye one time before I added the vent hose....