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pokerl0w

1993 Kawasaki Bayou 300c 4x4 Tie Rod and Shifting Issues

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man I wish. I know it is hard to tell from most of the images, this one shows it best I think and I confirmed re-looking, pretty certain it's the knuckle : 
20190118_182019.jpg

 

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If it’s just an over sized part for a bigger bike pull the wheel off and get a grinder take a quarter inch if it’s on the knuckle only.  If it’s the tie rod also then your screwed and will have to swap it to the right one.  And that’s a two piece part it’s possable that the whole part does not have to be changed. Just the upper control arm where the tie rod lands.  Just a guess but would be a lot less labor.   

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oh boy... so I put 1/16" washers which seemed too thick, but I could get the nut on 100% and I get clearance.

I drag it out and try to start it, doesn't start. I put batt charger on .. still no start. Grab my jump pack.. still no go! WTF. Oh, engine stop switch lmfao 🤣 

I even put new cotter pins in where the wrong knuckle (too large) was missing from it's bolts.

Let it idle for a bit and as I started out it seemed wobbly. I went up a tiny hill and man it seemed strange. Crossed over to this spot I wanted to try that is "grey area" in terms of can/can't ride and I start hearing a squeak. Similar to the sound when the knuckle was rubbing on the tire. I hop off and look at both tires.. Now the left one was rubbing!? wth!!? well, this allstar mech <- not only had not tightened the left front tire lugs, I only had 2 on!! heheh 😱

Finally got it put together (in the field heh) and something is still off. I think it's tranny. I took more video/pics, now this thing is leaking good from a couple spots. I know the oil plug, but that's on me and we can skip.

Images/video coming.

Now, leaks and slipping aside, I was able to climb some small banks and do some small hillsides that were very fun and enjoyable and quite easily too - even though it is certainly not 100% bike

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does this look like tranny fluid?

would make sense, it is def slipping going into gear (1st) and sometimes back out.  the first time I noticed this, I put it into High gearing and it seemed to respond better.. I bet that means something

 

first image is bottom/front of the engine zoomed in tight, I will attach video but damn I hold it what seems like forever and still need more time. Imma have to start counting by alligators!

 

oil.front-20190126_135401.thumb.jpg.c3d9d6eb0d7f60d16f57b2206d17fa91.jpg

here it is not zoomed:

oil.front-orig-20190126_135401.thumb.jpg.52317fd6b8cbcae02ee294b565fa2b7e.jpg

I can not believe this much is coming out in the other 2 places:

plug-plus-20190126_135349.thumb.jpg.d911e34f8b3966e90fab1fc774bc2573.jpg

video link:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/r2CKd3TwTH9PJhhX6

 

oh! and the gas cap has the nipple damaged/cut. I need to fabricate something to help air it out.

until then, however, it is normal to have it splash out a touch if you do not have a tube from the cap?  never really ran down the tank, pooled up around the nipple (sorry no image!)

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I say get your drain plug fixed and because if you're riding around, the oil can run all over the bottom of the engine and make it look like its leaking from several places..  As for trans fluid, there is none on those bikes if its like mine and from the look of it, it is.  On bayous, the engine and tranny are one piece and everything is oil-lubbed.  If you continue to have oil leaking issues from the bottom end after you get the drain plug fixed, you might have to consider a bottom end gasket set..  should be cheap, but I would have no clue how hard to replace..never gotten into the bottom of an engine much less a engine/trans.  As for the gas cap, yea mine did it too before I added a vent hose.  Bad setup as it still loses gas out the vent hose if im hitting rough terrain fast (always what I do) and the gas is sloshing around..

lol at one point come to think of it, I acually got gas squirted into my eye one time before I added the vent hose....:twitsy:

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but yea with the lug nuts, make sure to torque them down because you wouldn't really notice a lose wheel unless you're going fast and that could definitely cause rubbing.  And the stop switch...I done it too- tried to start it with the stop switch off..  after that, I never used the stop switch to turn it off- just the key..maybe that would help to prevent it from happening again....haha

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well 💩 I found out why it was still leaking oil even with the tap plug. Not sure if I did this tapping or at the start when I stripped.

 

image.png.b7ee7a7eb6a6abca317d26cecde204d1.png

 

guess I am done, yeah? I can not go larger tap, it will most likely crumble the rest. I'm going to try to re-use the same plug with loctite and new crush washer... but this means it will not hold and can it even be repaired?

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maybe something like this is possible?

 

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Ugh thats bad.   Jb weld will work great though.  Use the tap plug.  Drain the oil lay the bike on the side so no oil is in the area of the threads when installing the plug back in. Clean it a little with a carb cleaner and dry It good so no oil is in the area.   That’s why you have to lay it on the side and let it sit like that for a few min.  

The only other thing to do it bring it to a weld shop and have a guy that’s know heli arc alum welding and weld the tap plug in place.   

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and remember to have the battery disconnected before welding or you'll be replacing the electrical on your bike too...

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I may not have explained how I would apply the jb weld but I would putt a little around the threads and send it in and ASAP once it’s in I would add some in the area where the chunk is missing and a small bead around the entire  plug where it meets the engine to be safe. It has to be clean though and even if you want rough the area up with a little sand paper. 

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well I just used loctite, rubber crush and wanted to show ya'll the gears slipping first. I am about done with this bike.

I need to move the gopro to the front, clearly!! but I was in a rush....

 

 

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guess I'll try the jb weld first.. and then turn focus on the gears. hopefully it just needs adjustment, but my concern is that drip from the bottom/back of the motor where I think the clutches are. I was thinking, if anyone knew what to test to know if I am in deeper and I would wait to weld since I probably have to pull the engine. Maybe it is just a clutch adjustment and needs a new gasket. maybe i'll get lucky

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@pokerl0w received your report and changed the topic title per your request to 1993 Kawasaki Bayou 300c 4x4 Tie Rod and Shifting Issues 😁

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You would not have to pull the motor to deal with the clutch of its slipping.   Which it most likely is.   Unless you feel the gears grinding or a hard shift anyway.  But if it’s a slip it’s going to be more of a cluch thing then anything.   

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On 1/28/2019 at 2:20 PM, Frank Angerano said:

Ugh thats bad.   Jb weld will work great though.  Use the tap plug.  Drain the oil lay the bike on the side so no oil is in the area of the threads when installing the plug back in. Clean it a little with a carb cleaner and dry It good so no oil is in the area.   That’s why you have to lay it on the side and let it sit like that for a few min.  

The only other thing to do it bring it to a weld shop and have a guy that’s know heli arc alum welding and weld the tap plug in place.   

 

to be clear, both are "tap plugs"? one was self-threading the other had the piggyback. if I use the one with piggyback, it is 14mm x 2.00 and the self-tap is 12mm x 1.75 - I am very much concerned that the larger piggyback will split more. When I look close there is also a tiny crack (on the outside) at the end of where the chunk cracked off..

and for laying down.. guess that means also need to siphon the gas before I tip. anything else might leak? fuel left in hoses? never tipped one. maybe I can use a tree branch and pulley to lift it straight back/front? would I gain anything? 

I also think I should remove plastic before I tip. lots of cracks in this gem. however if I pulley, I could leave them on. leave it dangling all night and scare neighbors that have smaller atvs

Edited by pokerl0w
forgot tap n crack stuff

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The piggy back will allow you to drain the oil later using the small plug.   But you could go back to the original one of its a snug fit.   And clean the crack good and sand it up sand it up good so the jb weld has some grooves to get into.   I would prob drain the gas out but you don't have to flip it over just tip it sideways and block up the side of the bike so it the remaining oil goes elsewhere and not in the area of the drain plug during the repair.   If that holds you can always buy a small hand pump and pump most of the oil out of the engine through the oil fill plug. It’s a little unorthodox but  It’s a solution to a big problem. 

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On 1/28/2019 at 7:30 PM, pokerl0w said:

well I just used loctite, rubber crush and wanted to show ya'll the gears slipping first. I am about done with this bike.

I need to move the gopro to the front, clearly!! but I was in a rush....

 

 

btw, was jw, is your bike manual or semi manual?  Mine is foot shift but no clutch to pull.  Easier in some ways and harder in others to drive...

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5 hours ago, JacobSlabach said:

btw, was jw, is your bike manual or semi manual?  Mine is foot shift but no clutch to pull.  Easier in some ways and harder in others to drive...

semi auto. last bikes I rode, I do not think they had auto's. I am used to the left handlebar clutch.

But, I really do not think it is my foot. because it will also slip out of 1st gear into neutral and it wasn't me, I swear! :)

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I did not think this was going to work...

image.png.d726709dae7f9b88bf601eeb95d90d10.png

I was too concerned about making things worse with the larger tap in terms of losing more metal. I ordered a smaller piggyback that I hope fits better.

 

image.png.d2e8a4b8c0fc096efea7a34f2ed2682d.png

 

but it's holding!! I "rode" for a while in 3' of snow to test it out.

 

 

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and about the shifting issue...  have you adjusted the clutch?  I adjusted mine out and it started slipping under load untill I adjusted it back in.  best way to learn how to do that is to go to 👇 , enter you model, and look at the owner's (not service- you spend a week looking for it) manual and and you should find directions to adjusting the clutch

My Kawasaki | Save Favorite Vehicle Info, Quick Links, Dealer & More

 

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1 hour ago, JacobSlabach said:

did you use the akaso to film that video you took?

yes but not of the rubber oil plug install heh

1 hour ago, JacobSlabach said:

and about the shifting issue...  have you adjusted the clutch?  I adjusted mine out and it started slipping under load untill I adjusted it back in.  best way to learn how to do that is to go to 👇 , enter you model, and look at the owner's (not service- you spend a week looking for it) manual and and you should find directions to adjusting the clutch

My Kawasaki | Save Favorite Vehicle Info, Quick Links, Dealer & More

 

ty for this. I will get to it soon. right now I'm riggin' a plow to see if I can move more vs with front frame heh

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yeaaa its easy to just jump at it and forget to film... (i wouldnt know 😎)

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