Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Do you own an ATV? Join our Forum!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

pokerl0w

1993 Kawasaki Bayou 300c 4x4 Tie Rod and Shifting Issues

Recommended Posts

this bike! did this guy sucker me or what.. ok, looks like this means something is bent that I do not see or one rod is longer vs the other?

how long do you think this would last before it ripped into the tire? this is the right side, left side tire clears no problem

20190118_182000.thumb.jpg.f316167ced1027cc6af8a8ac62473a90.jpg20190118_182019.thumb.jpg.d5625d228dbea3e587f670596362a5be.jpg20190118_182025.thumb.jpg.6cef4b5bab8ede330271a0f980360985.jpg

 

 

I can not find them on www.kawasakipartshouse.com
 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


perhaps this is not the rod, looks like the piece it connects to. I need to pull the wheel. this thing is missing pins and such 😕 heh well, look at all my improvements I'll have in no time! 💪

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That part you think is bent is not really likely to bent.  It’s more likely to snap or break i should say since it’s a casted metal piece.  I would def pull the wheel to see if something is  missing like a spacer or a blown/collapsed bearing or the wrong rim maybe? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, JacobSlabach said:

yea some folks are like that... just out to scam people..  I got screwed on the bayou 300 I bought too.

i don't mind someone painting over a dent or using non-oem screws and parts, etc. but this guy said he rebuilt things - I bet he bought a chinese carb, new tires and that's it. claims he bought it from auction. I can not find any vin 😕 heh yeah.. well I'm learning tons, which is fun since it's not forced schoolwork heh

 

5 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

That part you think is bent is not really likely to bent.  It’s more likely to snap or break i should say since it’s a casted metal piece.  I would def pull the wheel to see if something is  missing like a spacer or a blown/collapsed bearing or the wrong rim maybe? 

I'm hoping wrong rim. You are right, that steering knuckle is thick metal and lined by 2 bolts, I do not think that can be adjusted. Must be wrong rims or tires (probably both).

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


tire off..

about to switch left/right to see if I see any difference. right now, I can't tell other than that rod end looks like it should be replaced and if you want to clean and keep rust off cast metal, rub a tire on it for about 2-3 hours

 


while I'm rotating, can anyone tell me more about this steering knuckle/plate setup (again this is right front wheel)?:

 

20190119_122036.thumb.jpg.999860924e3f5896c0603be4a545bc16.jpg20190119_122051.thumb.jpg.3e97eeb6e80dbd36ede98fd8ddd6f2cb.jpg20190119_122105.thumb.jpg.01eff69c0e4f34a917feb2ec1f208209.jpg20190119_122121.thumb.jpg.9807d645e973742d377a2d025426d12b.jpg20190119_122226.thumb.jpg.60a105f81a7951974d7caf535fd47ea6.jpg

Edited by pokerl0w
forgot polite words

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does there look like any welding was done on any of the parts ? 

You are going to have to turn the wheel in both directions. And while doing so take a few seconds and try to wiggle the parts on that front end for movement. Also look behind the rotor and compare one rotor to the other sidde. Also clearance between the back plate. Compare both sides take some pics and post.  Maybe we will see something that stands out.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah I def see differences. looks like different hubs. I have not measured the mounting bolts

 

20190119_143537.thumb.jpg.2d11a7bb2eddc191acf45e4be4bbc52f.jpg20190119_143546.thumb.jpg.23338df6d218ec4fd5ec5af09673b70a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes perhaps it is not the color/nut there, but the compression of the hub. I recall doing something like this with brakes/calipers. 

I measured and left side appears to be compressed in a bit more.. might take photos and upload to confirm what I am seeing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


 this steering knuckle is not the same as the other. I would think they should be same height. The right is about 1/4" or so taller and further back.

I do not have an image with tape, here's best I have right now without correct angles.. when I measured, however, that is 1 thing. Another is the distance from the rotor to end of wheel bolt is also about 1/8" or maybe 3/16 difference between the two. i do not see how compression could play into those measurements. it's all metal 😕 I need a either a larger right wheel n tire that'd look sweet heh or I have to find a correct right buckle which most seem to sell as complete  housing

 

left side:
image.png.42c6c67a4a6615c2611eabb6bc765723.png

right (rubbing) side:

image.png.2f0a62e8d1b6f89f97119ac328d3b219.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 minutes ago, pokerl0w said:

... I need a either a larger right wheel n tire that'd look sweet heh or I have to find a correct right buckle which most seem to sell as complete  housing

 

giphy-tumblr.gif?cid=6104955e5c43da77614

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So most likely it was wrecked and another year knuckle was put on you think ?

You can’t do a larger  front wheel.   They all have to be the same size or you will destroy the transmission.  

Edited by Frank Angerano

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well now I'm confused. ebay shows me left/right knuckles and they appear to be different shapes/sizes.
I can not see it on partzilla/others (yet). still searching.

and yea wrecked/salvaged bike I'm thinking.. with the damage being mostly on that side (it seems) and maybe he did not know the year and bought 95 and it's 93? (I'm assuming it as well). although I thought those years almost everything was identical for the  bayou 300 4x4. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


in terms of damage. there is damage in various places. I would think the right side has something but I have not spotted a bend in the actual frame on that front/right side. however, if there is - it should be helping in this situation? or not at all. I have to figure out the wheel size or try my luck with other parts as I can not seem to order just the knuckle and gl with size specs from ebay parts.

 

here's some more photos if you see anything. my best guess is I bought a salvaged unit. the guy chopped the vin and welded in where it used to be (or maybe the person before, who knows). they guy I got from claims he bought off auction and flips toys. this stated as to give some perspective to my struggle in finding details that can help us.

20190119_204858.thumb.jpg.9c064aa678f86ae6827d9e566e5190ab.jpg20190119_204908.thumb.jpg.db90b36986a00b8bcb240012c17c57bb.jpg20190119_204938.thumb.jpg.2514a99240a026a9ed448f22ed100349.jpg20190119_204954.thumb.jpg.7a19b282bfbc339ad434b1183a2c4608.jpg20190119_205655.thumb.jpg.9962e0277f6f9fe4d148f3c8bbf2acae.jpg20190119_205711.thumb.jpg.d97fd56f0a34577858c355e74accda1b.jpg

 

 

there's no snow on my yard, I am bummed.  I can not sticker this and take to a trail and play (legally anyway) where there is snow. either I buy one that I can register and get a "green sticker" .. or I buy a frame and swap everything. I really feel like doing so as then I have zero question as to what I am working with. assuming the engine can mount into a range of years, which, I would get a 1994 frame based on my research and parts available. 


I read it takes a pro shop about 1.5 days to complete the job of swapping frames (bent frame and minor bolt on part damage also replaced). front and rear look pretty easy.. the center is where I fear I'll get lost in weeks of trouble.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

be cool if each part had a no. on it to reference 👍

well... either I buy 2 larger front wheels n tires.. and that is $220 at least 

or a new used right side and hope it's the correct size, no way to know based on 2d photos

https://www.ebay.com/itm/371492357629 <- this looks almost larger than what I have now. and seems expensive to me 😕 no returns, bah

this should be new? very expensive but have return option: 

image.png

Edited by pokerl0w

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

if so, very little and it would have to be on both wheels the same I think as I tried the other tire (left) and same result. seems unlikely both wheels would have same bends 😕, right?
however ... axle. hmm how do I test (I'll have to start searching).

I think the brake or something is rubbing on the rotor, that's about all the sound there is when rotating manually. and they do spin

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Rims not likely both bent but you never know if that thing was slammed down on the front wheels.  Is the wheel marked all the way around on the inside ? That would be a good indicator if the axle is bent or if it’s a constant rub then it would be more likely a wrong part or bearing issue axle in to far etc. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hear you. esp with my 1st pick :D

re: wear .. looks like it is 100% but hard to tell. maybe not. about to take more pics...
while messing with it, it does appear that only 1 side might be off/bent. I could get clearance with 3 of the lugs semi tight, the 4th I had to leave loose.. hope to soon nail this root cause!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Put a few washers on to give you some clearance for now until you figure this out.

mean time you may find a new assembly on ebay depends on how much more you want to go for on this bike.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm not planning to flip bikes unless I have some hidden talent that surfaces once I get deep into the metal, and so far, no hammers have lit up or sang to me so .. 

I have day dreams to re-frame it, do a full amazing rebuild. saving money on parts that work , etc etc. I could also see me building this out pretty (make it look like you did it!!) and buy another that is ready to go. I'm not buying another unless it's 95% running and clean or ~$500 and have fun fixing.

guess a 3rd option is keep it for parts and look for another. I need to make room in my garage before I get too carried away anyway. I was thinking washers as well to see if I pick up on any other running issues. rear brakes appear to not work I just discovered. front works

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Quick question I want to dumb this down a bit.  Are you sure it’s not just a tie rod thats bad ? Is the tire just hitting the tie rod ball or the knuckle as well ? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Cody Smith
      Does anyone know the exact name of this part? Bottom of tire is tilting in Under the bike and top or tire is tilting out away from the bike. Not terrible but it’s a little 90 for kids want to make it safe. Just need to know exactly what the part is called. 



    • By Buell
      I have a 05 sportsman 700 carb and I also have tires and rims from an 19 Polaris General. Bolt pattern is the same. Do I need to change out the studs to be bigger?
    • By Karen McDowell
      Went to change oil and get my sons  2000 Suzuki King Quad 300 ready for spring and found the left front wheel wont move at all but the right does. Doesn't matter if it's 2 or 4 wheel drive same issue. Nothing looks bent, tie rod ends and ball joints in place jacked it up and shook wheel and bearing seems tight. Any ideas before I tear the dang thing apart?  Of course my son has no idea what happened.  
    • By Gilbey
      Does everyone run the tire pressure as stated on tires or perhaps a couple # below to soften the ride a little?
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By oxidized_black
      1988-2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Service Manual
      The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is one of the most common all-terrain vehicles on off-road trails that is geared toward novice riders and families. It’s also one of the smallest and most inexpensive ATVs on the market, with a retail price under $3,500, as of 2010. The Bayou 220 is Kawasaki’s only ATV of its size. The 220’s sibling is the larger Bayou 250 equipped with a 228cc engine.
      Engine
      The Bayou 220’s engine is a 215cc, four-stroke, shaft-driven, air-cooled model. Its bore measures 2.6 inches and the stroke is 2.4 inches. It features a relatively high 9.3:1 compression ratio with fuel delivered through a Mikuni VM24SS carburetor. The electronic ignition is Kawasaki’s DC-CDI. It also features a recoil backup as a starting system. The clutch is an automatic wet multidisc model with power delivered to the wheels via a five-speed transmission, according to ATV Source.
      Chassis
      The steel frame supports a front suspension with single A-arms and twin shock absorbers, with the rear suspension a Quad-Link system with two shocks. Front wheel travel is 4.5 inches, while the rear wheel travel measures at 4.9 inches. Front and rear brakes are drums.
      Size
      The front tire size is AT21X8-9 with the rear tires measuring AT22X10-10. The ATV’s wheelbase is 43.9 inches, with an overall length of 68.7 inches. Ground clearance is 6.1 inches with the seat height measuring 28.7 inches. It weighs 403 lbs. and can tow up to 450 lbs. Its fuel tank can carry 2.6 gallons.
      Basics
      The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is not the fastest ATV on the market, but one reason the Bayou 220 has kept its price low is the lack of amenities. It features a brake light and dual headlamps with high/low beam. There is an auxiliary lighting terminal inside the front cover of the ATV and electrical accessory terminals under the seat. The instrument cluster atop the fuel tank features a fuel gauge, but not much else. There are no speedometer, odometer, hourmeter, tripmeter, high-beam indication or high-temperature light. It does have a reverse/neutral indicator light. The Bayou comes in two colors: hunter green and firecracker red.
      Features
      The front A-arm, twin shock and rear Quad-Link twin-shock suspension system is not a true fully independent system, but it allows for a comfortable ride over rough terrain without employing a complex and expensive, fully independent suspension system. The ATV features front and rear steel cargo racks. The ATV is rider-friendly with a limited adjustable throttle to help novices practice their riding skills without twisting the throttle too far and losing control of the vehicle.
    • By oxidized_black
      View File 1988-2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Service Manual
      1988-2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 Service Manual
      The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is one of the most common all-terrain vehicles on off-road trails that is geared toward novice riders and families. It’s also one of the smallest and most inexpensive ATVs on the market, with a retail price under $3,500, as of 2010. The Bayou 220 is Kawasaki’s only ATV of its size. The 220’s sibling is the larger Bayou 250 equipped with a 228cc engine.
      Engine
      The Bayou 220’s engine is a 215cc, four-stroke, shaft-driven, air-cooled model. Its bore measures 2.6 inches and the stroke is 2.4 inches. It features a relatively high 9.3:1 compression ratio with fuel delivered through a Mikuni VM24SS carburetor. The electronic ignition is Kawasaki’s DC-CDI. It also features a recoil backup as a starting system. The clutch is an automatic wet multidisc model with power delivered to the wheels via a five-speed transmission, according to ATV Source.
      Chassis
      The steel frame supports a front suspension with single A-arms and twin shock absorbers, with the rear suspension a Quad-Link system with two shocks. Front wheel travel is 4.5 inches, while the rear wheel travel measures at 4.9 inches. Front and rear brakes are drums.
      Size
      The front tire size is AT21X8-9 with the rear tires measuring AT22X10-10. The ATV’s wheelbase is 43.9 inches, with an overall length of 68.7 inches. Ground clearance is 6.1 inches with the seat height measuring 28.7 inches. It weighs 403 lbs. and can tow up to 450 lbs. Its fuel tank can carry 2.6 gallons.
      Basics
      The Kawasaki Bayou 220 is not the fastest ATV on the market, but one reason the Bayou 220 has kept its price low is the lack of amenities. It features a brake light and dual headlamps with high/low beam. There is an auxiliary lighting terminal inside the front cover of the ATV and electrical accessory terminals under the seat. The instrument cluster atop the fuel tank features a fuel gauge, but not much else. There are no speedometer, odometer, hourmeter, tripmeter, high-beam indication or high-temperature light. It does have a reverse/neutral indicator light. The Bayou comes in two colors: hunter green and firecracker red.
      Features
      The front A-arm, twin shock and rear Quad-Link twin-shock suspension system is not a true fully independent system, but it allows for a comfortable ride over rough terrain without employing a complex and expensive, fully independent suspension system. The ATV features front and rear steel cargo racks. The ATV is rider-friendly with a limited adjustable throttle to help novices practice their riding skills without twisting the throttle too far and losing control of the vehicle.
      Submitter oxidized_black Submitted 12/14/2016 Category Kawasaki ATV  
    • By Christine Kiffer-Meany
      Hey everyone...does anyone know if tie rod sets for a Honda 250 will fit a 125? My son just snapped the tie rod end clear off. We have a 1987 Honda fourtrax 125. Just want to make sure before I order the set off eBay. Thanks
    • By bradleyheathhays
      Have an '02 Ford Taurus that's been grandma driven for all of it's 95k miles. After doing some very easy driving in town for a couple hours today I accelerated up to about 50 and noticed the car didn't seem to be responding to the gas pedal anymore. Looked down and the engine was doing 4k rpm so I let off the gas. Pumped the gas a couple times to see if the car responded and got nothing. Coasted to a stop in a safe lane and tested it in all the gears...nothing. The car stays put if you put it in park but you can roll it back when in any other gear position. The gear leaver on the tree does still give resistance when you move between gears. No music was playing and there was no noticeable sound whenever the breakage occurred.

      Called a friend and was advised to check the gear shift linkage at the top of the transmission. I'm not familiar with what the arm's full range of motion is supposed to be but I noted it's position while in park and low 1 and it seems to be moving well. Felt the connections and they seemed solid.

      Without the benefit of being able to do a proper run-up to a transmission fluid check I wiped and re-dipped the stick and it read fairly high although I hadn't added any fluid for at least 10k miles. The fluid was just a shade darker than light pink and although I didn't check specifically it didn't seem to have a burnt smell.

      There's no way low engine oil could cause something like this is there?

      Any ideas?
    • By Mike Johnson
      Does anyone know what the 3rd item is behind the battery on this ATV ? I know 1 is the,  solenoid1 is the CDI box, what is the 3rd.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...