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By Jeff Comstock
Ok, so I had no spark issues and foundy coil was bad. Bought a caltric coil, put it on and fired right up...for bout 20 minutes then it backfired once and again, no spark. I put it on my buddies 300 and it runs. Checked my cdi the same thing, but still no spark. Now I got my old coil and was ohming it and got reading of .01 on primary and 11.89 from POS to plug ( meter set on 20k ) new coil reads same primary but 12.83. what gives? It tests bad but runs my buddies 300, helllllllpppp
I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
Introducing the Dash Frame system for the Kawasaki Teryx from Black Rhino Performance. The Dash Frame fits nicely into the middle of your dash, and is designed to closely follow the shape of the Kawasaki Teryx dash. This frame puts your gauges and switches at the same angle as the upper dash for easy viewing of the gauges and convenient placement of switches. The panel provides mounting for 3 2"
By Resurgence Small Engine Inc.
In this video, Jonathan diagnoses & repairs the decompression system on a Yamaha 2003 Grizzly 660.
Some symptoms include: Pulling recoil right out of your hand, starter turning really slowly, constant dead batteries.
Thanks for watching!
By Jacob Dellinger
Pressure testing a Polaris 250 trailblazer with motion pro tester. Atv leaks down from 6 psi to 3 and hold there and I can’t kind a leak with water and dawn soap. . New to pressure testing a atv but have done 100s of saws etc. was going to order clutch puller and flywheel puller andCheck seals. Also notice that there is a clutch alignment tool, do I need this if i pull clutch?
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Got two 3 wheelers. One a 85; 250es the other around 83 (not sure the year) 200es. Neither of them are getting any fire. The manual says to test across the two terminal going into the coil to measure the resistance. I checked and both read 0.0. No resistance. The 200 came with two other coils which Ive never used. Tested them and got 0.0. Ordered one off Ebay for the 250. Came from a cycle shop. High tension wire doesn't look to good. Tested its terminal and it reads 0.0. I also have a 400 Kawasaki 4 wheeler that ran when parked (water cooled with a cracked head or sleeve. So it hasn't been used in awhile) I tested its coil. Got 0.0. Im pretty sure that coil is good. I then tested a round can coil on my old tractor just for fun. It did show some resistance.
So where do I go from here? I need to find out if that coil from Ebay is bad so I can send it back. The high tension wire on it is just about enough to make me want to send it back any way. Any help on how to test these coils would be appreciated. Then I could move onto the other parts of the firing system.
I just launched a new site that deals with all and any problems with the 4wd system on Yamahas. I have how to videos for testing the servo, disassembling the servo, replacing and purchasing the servo (motor only), testing relays, and testing the push button switch.
I also have a link to download the 4wd testing portion of the service manual.
Check it out at 501parts.com - Yahama Servo Motors
Let me know if I can help.
Heres a few of the videos and pics
For those techno folks out there!!!! How does one test the starter relay on a quad??? I am told that you can not test it unless it is on the unit??? @ the highest level one could say if the quad does not start the relay is shot BUT how does one test it electronically??? with a meter???
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