Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!
As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery. Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.
By Frank Angerano
I’ve decided to post a thread on the process of cleaning a carburetor and what’s needed in order to do it properly. There are some members that are new to this and are not very versed in doing so. I want to help and feel this might explain things better. I would hope this helps you along. We all have our own little tricks of the trade so I’m sharing my process on how i break a carburetor down, clean, reassemble and adjust it to peak performance. I welcome any other members input on this topic. List of things I use: Safety glasses !!! Rags. I like to use old white Tee shirts or I buy and always have a few white pillow cases from the dollar store on hand. The cheap ones. I like to use a frisbee turned upside down like a bowl to keep the liquids to a minimum on spillage to the work bench. A set of cleaning picks and brushes or a piece of bicycle break cable, I separate the strands and use them to clean out the tiny holes in the jets. (Pic attached) A can of gum out carburetor cleaner with the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip. (Pic attached) A can of compressed air, the kind used to clean out keyboards on computers. It also has the small red tube that attaches to the spray tip. Or a compressor if you have one with a blow out tip. (Pic attached) A piece of clean hose that I can connect to the fuel line port on the carburetor to test the float operation. About 10 inches long. A few Q tips. The process: I like to put the pillow case down on the work bench and spread it out flat. This really helps in being able to keep track of parts. Especially because it’s white. I use the frisbee because it’s small enough to keep parts contained and durable enough to deal with the chemicals and any gas that will come out of the carburetor while opening it up. It’s important to make sure you keep track of where everything came off and where the screws and parts all go back. I like to start at the bottom and pull the bowl off. I immediately spray the inside of the bowl down with carb cleaner until its about half way full and set it aside. Then I take the float out and check it for any fluid inside. If it’s a white color float you can hold a flashlight under it and see through it for any fluid inside. If it black just shake it up and listen for fluid inside. No fluid inside is a good thing ! When the float comes out the fill valve needle will come with it. I take that needle and put it in the carburetor bowl that I filled with carburetor cleaner. This way it soaks for a bit. I do the same thing with the jets also once they are unscrewed and out toss them into the bowl to soak. Take the air/fuel mixture screw out and soak that as well. Side note: the air/fuel screw should have a screw, spring, washer and o ring. After all the jets and parts are out and soaking I like to take the carburetor cleaner, use the small red tube and stick it in all the little holes/ports on the carburetor and spray. I do this while it’s in the frisbee. This way there is no mess. I look to see where the spray pressure comes out on the other side of that port. Once this is all done I start running my brushes and cleaning tips gently through all of the holes/ports and spraying it again with the carb cleaner. After I feel I’ve seen a clear flow of fluid through all the openings I spray them with the can of air the exact way I did with the carburetor cleaner. This will blow out any left over junk that’s still in the carburetor. Check the choke operation is working properly and spray it clean. Most choke devices are easily cleaned up so hit it and move on since they are mechanical and it’s just a matter of freeing them up, spraying with cleaner and lube. There are multiple types of chokes but many of them for the most part are mechanically operated. Once this is completed I wipe the entire carburetor down good and blow it clean and set aside. I then start working on the jets one by one. Start by running the cleaning tips and brushes through all the tiny holes making sure they are all clean. Hit it with the carburetor cleaner and then air. I hold a flashlight to it when it’s done so I can make sure all of the holes are clear. I set all the jets aside on the work area. Do the same thing for the float needle and air/fuel screw. Now once this is all complete you can set the frisbee aside and start to reassemble the carburetor on the clean white surface. I start by running a Q tip in where the fill needle sits into the carburetor. Some carbs have a small o ring that needs to be clean for proper seating of the fill needle. Carefully reinstall the jets where they came from and do not strip or over tighten the jets and use the proper size screwdrivers when removing and reinstalling the jets. Reinstall the air/fuel mixture screw and set it to what’s called out in the manual for that bike. Install the float and fill needle assembly. Now in order to test that float I like to take that piece of hose I mentioned and connect it to where the fuel line gets connected to the carburetor. I then turn the carburetor over to the upright position and blow into the hose. You should hear air coming out of the bottom of the carburetor. While blowing, lift the float up and the air should stop. Let it go and the float should fall down opening the fill valve and you should hear air again. The air should stop about 3/4 way up when raising that float while your blowing air into it. If so then your good to go. If not make an adjustment Set the carburetor down, take the bowl and empty it. Clean it out and scrape/wipe any old junk inside and blow it out good. There is a screw on the outside of the bottom of the bowl. Remove it and clean it out and reinstall. Turn the carburetor over and reinstall the bowl. Tighten the screws in a crisscross pattern so the bowl seats evenly. I like to put the hose on one more time and do a float test to make sure it’s opening and closing properly. All you have to do is blow into the hose and run the carburetor upside down to see if the air stops. Reinstall the carb and you should be good to go! All pics of the items I use are attached below. If you understand this great. If not ask away! Don’t be shy and don’t cut corners. You will only wind up pulling the carburetor off of the bike for the third and forth time before you get it right. The last thing to be discussed is dialing in the air/fuel screw when your finally put back together and running. This is a relatively easy task. Again I hope this helps! Frank.
i have a older honda 350 cc quad that seems to start and other days will not.spark seems to be gone and there when it does run.I checked newer coil odd a older yet Honda but no help and idea I going to find the serial number as forget the year but believe around 1995 to 1997 year besides that great quad but cant run it so great this way and need it for chores around the acreage. Any help would be great. Ive check all fuses as well as the fusable ling which was fine until I screwed with it now need to buy another as have it wired not so safe.I handy but now have copd which takes away the brain power some.Any help would sure be appreciated
these are what i have in my collection ... always looking for more
1981 Honda Odyssey FL250 Service Manual
1984 Honda TRX200 Service Manual
1985 - 1986 Honda TRX125 Service Manual
1985 - 1987 Honda TRX250 Service Manual
1985 Honda Odyssey FL350R Service Manual
1986 - 1987 Honda TRX70 Service Manual
1986 - 1988 Honda TRX200 Service Manual
1986 - 1989 TRX250r Service Manual
1986 - 1989 TRX350 Foreman Sevice Manual
1987 - 1988 Honda TRX250 Service Manual
1988 - 1994 Honda TRX300 TRX300FW Service Manual
1989 Honda Pilot FL400R Service Manual
1993 - 2000 Honda TRX300ex Service Manual
1995 - 2000 Honda TRX300 Service Manual
1995 - 2003 Honda Foreman TRX400 Service Manual
1997 - 2004 Honda Recon TRX250 Service Manual
1998 - 2004 Honda Foreman TRX450 Service Manual
1999 - 2002 Honda TRX400ex Service Manual
2000 - 2003 Honda TRX350 Service Manual
2000 - 2003 Honda TRX350 Service Manual
2001 - 2003 Honda Rubicon TRX500 Service Manual
2001 - 2005 Honda TRX250ex Service Manual
2001 - 2006 Honda TRX300ex Service Manual
2003 Honda Rincon TRX650 Service Manual
2004 - 2005 Honda TRX450r Service Manual
2004 - 2006 Honda Rancher TRX350 Service Manual
2004 - 2007 Honda Rancher TRX400 Service Manual
2004 - 2009 Honda TRX450r Service Manual
2005 - 2006 Honda Foreman TRX500 Service Manual
2005 - 2008 Honda Rubicon TRX500 Service Manual
2005 - 2009 Honda TRX400ex Service Manual
2005 - 2011 Honda Foreman TRX500 Service Manual
2005 - 2011 Honda Recon TRX250 Service Manual
2006 - 2011 Honda Rincon TRX680 Service Manual
2006 - 2011 Honda TRX250ex Service Manual
2006 Honda Rincon TRX680 Service Manual
2006 Honda Rincon TRX680 Service Manual
2007 - 2009 Honda TRX300ex Service Manual
2007 - 2010 Honda Rancher TRX420 Service Manual
2008 - 2009 Honda TRX700XX Service Manual
2009 - 2011 Honda Rancher 420 Service Manual
Similar Tagged Content
By Mark Walters
Hi guys. First post, hope you can help. As above 1991 Honda fourtrax. Starting, running fine until a few weeks ago. Used primarily to put my ski boat in the garage (put 2" ball on front). Any way, had just backed boat into garage, turned off to crank trailer wheel down, when I went to restart got nothing.
No neutral light, no headlights, no reverse light, would not turn over when start button pushed. It would crank and run when I jumped the contacts on the start relay. While running the neutral light will come on, although it is dim and flickers. Reverse light on when running and in reverse.
What I have done to this point:
1. Used jumper cable to ground battery (-) terminal to engine block thinking ground wire from battery to engine may be bad. No neutral light, no start.
2. Applied 12 volts to start relay. Got a loud click like it was making contact. I didn't have the battery/starter cables connected to the relay, but I am assuming it would have cranked at that time.
3. Disconnected neutral switch wire. Grounded neutral switch wire with jumper wire. No neutral light, no electric start.
At this point I am thinking ignition switch vs broken wire in the harness going to the neutral switch (due to dimness and flickering when running).
Any and all suggestions to help track down this issue are appreciated.
I have brought an 84 TRX 200 back to life and unfortunately whomever dug into it first removed the two trim pieces that go around the gas tank. I was thinking someone on the site may have an old parts bike with these pieces lying around..... If so, drop me a message and we can make a deal. I just want to complete the bike!
By Connor Tuftin
I have a 1988 300 Honda FourTrax, All wheel drive.
My brother and I were fixing up this quad. We put a brand new battery and fuses in and it was running fine until we put the quad into reverse. As soon as it was put into reverse all of the electrical cut out and power wasn't making it to the head unit anymore and both of the brand new fuses popped. We figured there might have been a short from the starter or solenoids, but they are all working properly. At this point we don't know where to start looking for where the short could be. I'm just wondering if anybody has had the same issue or knows of similar issues that could cause these electrical shorts?
By Steven Workman
So I have a Honda Fourtrax 300 year 1988. The ignition doesn’t start it with no sound. The headlights won’t turn on. It has a brand new charged battery, fuses are good, oil is good, gas is good, reverse is rusted, it shifts good, won’t jumpstart but when you try it will turn over, it will start if you jump the solenoid give it gas and spray starter fluid on the breather but it won’t stay on long but will stay on for the little time it does by itself. I don’t know what’s wrong and I need help!
Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.