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By Brian Simmons
I have a 2003 Polaris Predator 500 . I know my valves need adjusted . Here recently I`ve had to bump start it . And i noticed a power differents . Now it won`t bump start . Did i mess anything up ? Or can I still just adjust the valves . By the way does anyone have a video of how to do a valve job on it ? Let me know ASAP !!!??? Thank you
I've never done this before but after reading a few thread I decided to check my valves for the first time and to my surprise it was much easier than I thought.
My bike is a 2005 Sp 500 HO.
I first pulled the seat and the right side panel off, and that's it! It wasn't too bad to get at.
Next I pulled the spark plug out and removed both the head cover ( 8-8mm bolts)
then the side cam cover (5-8mm bolts).
Also remove the plug in the recoil cover (14mm bolt) to see the timming marks.
Next I turned the engine over with the pull cord untill it was at TDC of the compression stroke.
The best was to tell that your at TDC of the compression stroke is to rotate the engine until the
timing marks are parallel to rocker cover gasket surface.
The cam sprocket locating pin will be facing upward directly in line with the crankshaft to camshaft center line.
Now fine adjust by looking into the timing hole in the recoil cover and line up the upside down "T" on
the flywheel into the center of the hole.
Now using a feeler gauge, slide the .006" (.15mm)blade between the top of the valve and the bottom of the adjuster and adjust accordingly
To adjust, Loosen the locknut (10mm) and check clearance with a feeler guage. Clearance should be .006" (.15mm) for both, intake and exhaust valves. Turn the adjuster with a stubby flat blade screwdriver untill the proper clearance is achieved then tighten the locknut (5.8-7.2 ft. lbs) while holding the adjuster in place with the screwdriver. Re-check the clearance with the feeler guage one last time and re-assemble the covers (72 in.lbs) and plugs.
The only thing that i noticed was that I had to clean and silicone the side cam cover other than that I found the whole process rather simple.
I'd give it a 4 out of 10 on the skill level scale.
I hope this helps!
Just picked an '03 Bayou 300 2WD. It runs ok, needs a little help though. Maybe someone can answer some questions for me.
1. The choke "off" position is the lever all the way right, correct?
2. The choke seems mechanically... funky. It has a little valve clamp around the rubber boot where it goes into the carb, seems kind of janky, I don't think there's typically a valve clamp on that part? The engine seems like its running really rich, smoking a bit, so I wonder if I can just completely remove the choke cable to see if that's part of the issue? But I don't fully understand the choke needle setup. Is "choked" when the needle is being pushed in, or pulled out? Like it I chopped the cable just outside the rubber boot by the carb, would I be permanently choking it or permanently unchoking it.
3. I've read that I can tweak the air/fuel screw and maybe fix the rich mix. Where is that even located, and if it's behind a cap that I have to drill out... where is that?
Thanks for any tips
By Steve Howard
Ran find shut down the quad next day would start and idle when you try to accelerate it would start popping through the carb got a rebuild kit soaked it in chem clean after break down for 12 hours on slow vibrate reassembled and adjusted per manual still the same thing any help would be really appreciated thanks and happy ridding
By Frank Angerano
Take a look at this. Curious about everyone’s input.it looks pretty good. We all have this common problem of accessing the air fuel mixture screws.
The reviews look pretty good. I may order one just to see how it works out.
They also have other types that will work on this site.
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