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I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
The thing sat since Christmas 2018 and while I decided whether to replace the starter (which I finally did today). I am not sure if I added fuel stabilizer or not but chances are good I did. I kept the one year-old battery well charged during the winter. It turns over well but won't start. I have a blue spark on a brand new plug. When I pour a bit of fuel down the cylinder, the engine starts and runs for a few seconds (once for as long as about 8 sections) and then dies. Even before adding fuel to the cylinder I noticed that the spark plug was wet with fuel.
The air filter looks a bit dirty so I removed it just to see if the engine would start better but it made no difference.
If the fuel did not contain stabilizer then the carb may be gummed up. I don't really want to remove the carb to do a thorough cleaning. Is there a product I can spray into the carb while the engine turns over that will clean the carb?
Any other suggestions?
By Resurgence Small Engine Inc.
Recently, Jonathan has been repairing & reassembling a client's 1983 Big Red Honda ATC200E. In this video, he gives an overview of how he approached diagnosing the ATC and creating a plan for the project.
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Hi guys. First post, hope you can help. As above 1991 Honda fourtrax. Starting, running fine until a few weeks ago. Used primarily to put my ski boat in the garage (put 2" ball on front). Any way, had just backed boat into garage, turned off to crank trailer wheel down, when I went to restart got nothing.
No neutral light, no headlights, no reverse light, would not turn over when start button pushed. It would crank and run when I jumped the contacts on the start relay. While running the neutral light will come on, although it is dim and flickers. Reverse light on when running and in reverse.
What I have done to this point:
1. Used jumper cable to ground battery (-) terminal to engine block thinking ground wire from battery to engine may be bad. No neutral light, no start.
2. Applied 12 volts to start relay. Got a loud click like it was making contact. I didn't have the battery/starter cables connected to the relay, but I am assuming it would have cranked at that time.
3. Disconnected neutral switch wire. Grounded neutral switch wire with jumper wire. No neutral light, no electric start.
At this point I am thinking ignition switch vs broken wire in the harness going to the neutral switch (due to dimness and flickering when running).
Any and all suggestions to help track down this issue are appreciated.
By Adrian Ciotinga
The title pretty much explains it all. When using the starter I can hear it spinning but not engaging the engine. The wheels also do not engage with the wheels when the clutch is out. The motor has compression if that helps.
I am new to engine work and repair and I bought this quad with the idea of fixing it up (not knowing the full extent of the damage). The previous owner said it ran but sat for a year (I don’t believe that for a second after opening it up) and had bought a few new plugs and a starter motor, none of which fixed the issue.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have attached a few pics of what I think could be wrong.
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