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I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that i purchased a while back with around 300 hours on it. It has never ran right from the beginning. Initially i thought it was just a carburetor issue because it was all clogged up from sitting for months. It has been cleaned, rebuilt, and taken off probably about 10 times troubleshooting this problem. I have quadruple checked everything including float height ect and it is set correctly, the jets are also brand new, needle and seat have been pressure tested as well. So after all of that I am convinced that the carburetor is not the culprit. I have an issue where the idle is very choppy, almost as if it is misfiring with a rich condition on top of that. I can use a brand new plug and run the machine for just a few minutes and it will be a dry and and coated in black carbon build up. The exhaust also has a strong smell at idle. I had trouble restarting it when hot for a while, but i adjusted the valves and it seemed to solve that issue. They were both way out of tolerance (tight). The weird thing is, outside of idle it seems to run pretty well.
So with all that being said I have ruled out the carb/valves/compression and moved on to the ignition and this is where i have a few questions about factory specifications. I guess the main question I have is, how strict are these tolerances? And could them being off by this amount cause the issue I am having? Do all three of these parts really need to be replaced? I would like to know before I spend the money on these new parts, and it not fix my problem. Below I will list what the specs were in the service manual along with the reading i got. This is my first experience testing ignition components. I just found it odd that all 3 are out of spec according to the service manual.
Spark plug cap resistance: 10 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: 8.90 kΩ
Primary coil resistance: 0.18 ~ 0.28 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My Reading: Fluctuated between 0.4 - 0.5 Ω
Secondary coil resistance: 6.32 ~ 9.48 kΩ at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within the specified range.
Pickup coil resistance: 459 ~ 561 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
Reading was within specified range.
Rotor rotation direction sensing coil resistance: 0.085 ~ 0.105 Ω at 20 °C (68 °F)
My reading was 0.3 Ω
The rear brakes on this are hydraulic and manual. The hydraulic part is all messed up so I disconnected it all and want to go just manual on the rear. I got it all put back together but doesn't seem to work to well, like not enough pressure. The manual says I should mark the casing before taking it apart which I didn't read until to late. Any ideas? I put new brake pads on.
I thought I would make a quick "How-to" on setting wheel alignment since I was flipping my tie rod ends and I was going to have to re-align the wheels anyways.
Here's some of the tools you will need...
1.) Start with the ATV on a smooth and level surface, like a cement garage floor or driveway.
2.)Center up (Eyeball It) the handle bars and lock them into place with 2 ratchet straps, one on each side of handle bars. This of course prevents them from moving when your adjusting the tie-rods.
3.) Place two Jack Stands approximately 2 feet in front of the atv even with the outside edge of the two front wheels.
4.) Wrap a length of string all the way around the ATV and Jack Stands, Start and end at the rear hitch. Make sure the string is the same height from the ground on all 4 wheels. I like to attach a few elastic bands to both ends of the string before attaching the string to the hitch. This makes it easier to adjust the strings when moving the Jack Stands.
4.) Break lose the inner and outer tie-rod nuts. NOTE! Make sure you use 2 wrenches, one on the nut and one on the ball joint. Damage can occur by only using one wrench.
5.) Adjust the string by moving the Jack Stands in or out untill the string just touches both of the side surfaces of the rear tires on each side of the ATV. This will take some time to get it right but it needs to be done!
Check manufacturers wheel alignment specifications on your specific make and model before you adjust any components.
For this wheel alignment I'm using the Polaris Specs which seems to be a common setting.
Polaris - The recommended toe alignment is 1/8″ to 1/4″ toe out. This is a total amount, not per wheel.
6.) On the front rim, measure the distance from the string to the rim at the front and rear edges of the rim. The rear measurement should be 1/16″ - 1/8″ (.2 to .3 cm) more than the front measurement.
7.) If an adjustment is necessary, Turn the tie rod itself with a wrench or your hand in small increments. It doesn't take much to move the tire a long way, so go slow. Keep re-checking your measurement's until you have a 1/16″ - 1/8″ differance to the string.
6.) Once your satisfied that you have the correct "Toe Out" measurements you can tighten up the inner and outter tie-rod nuts on both sides. AGAIN...make sure to use 2 wrenches.
7.) Now take your ATV for a test drive to test your adjustments. If it still pulls one way or the other, just repeat the above steps to tweek the adjustments again utill your happy.
The whole process only takes about 15-20 min.
Hey guys. New guy here with my first Yamaha quad. Traded for an 01' Kodiak 400 that needs some tlc. It was running but idle is off, missing some hardware here and there, none of the lights work on instrument panel and front brakes didn't work were the main things that jumped out at me. I drug it home and have started tearing into it. Started with fresh oil change and flushed the dirty brown coolant and replaced with fresh coolant. The carburetor is missing the side cover for the throttle cable and I don't see where I can buy just that cover without buying a complete carb, so went ahead and ordered a new one (hasn't arrived yet). the Starter relay solenoid was crap and had to mess with it to get it to start half the time so replaced it. I have a few questions as I'm going through this quad that I'll list below.
1. It has a cut plug on wiring harness under the instrument panel. Can anyone tell me what this plug goes to? There currently is not a plug running to the 4wd indicator light on instrument cluster so I'm wondering if 2 of the wires are for that possibly??
2. Also in the front, there is a air duct under the rack and black plastic panel that runs down to the engine case. Is there supposed to be some sort of cover or anything over it? I looked online at parts diagrams and couldn't even find this duct or the duct that runs up by taillight in any of the diagrams.
3. this fuel line on top left side of carburetor; is this what goes to the gas tank cap or is it just a vent line for carb? Follow up question, where does the line that comes off of the gas tank cap go to?
I'm sure I'll have many more questions as I work through this thing. Thanks in advance for any replies.
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Looking to get some tires for my old quad, but the tires are getting rarer. Paying near 100 for tires seems a lot when that is what I just paid for tires for my car and i only ride four or five times a year
Anyone have any leads on good used or closeouts in 23x10/12 and 23x8/12?
Additionally, what other sizes can I run that might be easier to find and not muck with the 4x4?
My village has now made golf carts and atv's legal on the street and now that the wife and i can go cruise around i'm considering putting on street tires to save my knobbies. Thinking on the route of saving costs and using car rims i'm sure i will have to get adapters but has anyone had experiences doing this? Down falls? We dont mud or anything and they would be used for summer only.
Hello first time posting here. I have just brought a KVF 300 and the tyres need replacing. i was wondering about the sizes do you have to use the same as what are on it or can you change them a bit. the sixes are 25 x 8 - 12 front and 25 x 11 - 10
i am having trouble finding the 25 x 11 - 10 could i go to 25 x 10 or 25 x 12 having trouble to get the 11 for a good price
or can i even get bigger back rims
what are the options there
I just purchased a set (4) of these for $349.00 on Amazon. They are going on my Cforce 400.
The guys on the CFMoto forum suggest I tune my clutch to make up for the increased weight, Tire Lug depth, etc.
I've been doing a ton of searching on CVTech clutches and I think I've found how to do it.
I've been told to add about 10g weight to my primary clutch and change the secondary to A1. If I don't do the weights I should atleast change the secondary to C1.
Does anyone here have experience with CVTech clutches and have any recommendations for me?
Anyone used SunF tires? 25-8-12/25-10-12
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