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JacobSlabach

Yamaha Warrior clutch/carb/exhaust issues

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main crank had side to side play- I think thats supposed to be like that.  dunno for sure till I crack the crank case and pull everything apart  what side of the crank case should I be pulling?

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I wouldn’t be so quick to do that. Side to side is ok.  

If that bearing is tight and no play up and down just flush it out with some oil and put it back together.

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so you're saying the engine could be ok even though it had crap in it and everything is rusted?mood GIF

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If the head has been removed previous times and the person or persons that have done it in the past have scraped the old gaskets away, shavings do fall into the crank case if the mechanic was not careful along with any gasket adhesive that was squeezed into the head when the head was tightened down.

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ok.  The thing that worries me is it seemed as though the rear wheels locked up after I drained the oil but before I pulled the engine.  (in other words, the tranny seemed to have locked up while it was in neutral..)  not positive about it, but the cog would turn about a 16th of a turn and stop, then if I switched it from forward to reverse, it will turn some more and stop, then if I put it back in forward, it turns some more.  My concern with that is that maybe something is stuck/caught in the tranny...but I guess at this point there is nothing to lose..  can I use some used oil to flush the engine and then put some good oil in after?  

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How I flush the motor.  

1. Buy a few quarts of oil.

2. Buy a paint strainer (pic attached). 

3. Fill the engine and swish around and pull the oil plug. 

4. Drain the oil through the strainer and re use. 

5. Repeat a few times. 

53B75416-A919-433B-9F8C-0D454F58CCCD.png

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okay.  is it OK to use cheap engine oil or should I buy that Valvoline oil just for flushing it?

should I try using a honer on this cylinder as well?  (there is a rust ring from where the piston partially locked up)

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Cheapest shit you can find and a thin oil like a 20 weight.   

Keep in mind you can use kerosene as well for the initial few flushes and then the oil for the last few flushes. 

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dont have kerosene on hand, would gas do ok or is that gonna encourage more rust?  I found out that the engines are the same between the big bear 350 and the warrior 350 (other than the drive train of course).  So I did get an extra pair of cylinder and head gaskets.  so should I get the top end back together before I flush the engine or after?  The piston rings look good (they still have the tapered edges) and the cylinder isn't scratched but I'm still going to hone it cause its got the rust ring from the rings in it.  Also, can I just use gasket material on the clutch cover since I've already removed that?  And anything I should do with the clutch before I put it back together?

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Definitely flush the crank case out with cheap oil like we spoke about and open the clutch up and clean it good slap it back together with an adjustment.  Reassemble it and see what it does. What do you have to loose other then gaskets and time.  

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haha ok.  Can I do the clutch work now since I already have it exposed?

and should I put the top end together before or after I flush the crank case?  

btw, I checked the rod for play and its tighter(like it should be- its not locked up or hard to turn or anything) than the rod on the big bear haha And the timing chain is a little rusted on a couple links, but none of them are locked up.

My only concern is that the drive sprocket still wont move even though the motor is in neutral

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That’s a big concern to me.  You may need to split that engine if you can free it up.  Put a little pressure on spinning it in both directions to see if she moves as well as the gear shifter. 

Also does the crank turn freely as if the piston was stroking ? 

Don't  put the head on until after you flush the motor because  you can flip motor over to get the oil out and any big stuff will com out. Just use a big enough pan to turn the motor over so no big spillage happens.  

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Yes the crankshaft spins freely right now and always did.  ok.  should I flush and then split the case or just split it now and see what kinda crap is going on in there?  Also I noticed that the sprocket will turn about 1/8 turn if I switch the directional lever (from reverse to drive and vise versa)

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It may be something caught in between the gears jamming it  but that piece jamming and  it most likely is a broken gear tooth! 😢

 

If you can’t get it to spin then you might have to split it but be prepared with the gears and seals it’s not a simple task.   

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found out the motor isnt locked up- shifter was slipping because the side cover was off and not holding the linkage in place.  The clutch hasnt changed, just seems like theres nothing there when you pull the handle.  I'm in AL and brought it with me to get my friend to weld the muffler back together (it broke somehow)  and it needs a battery.  So i cleaned the carb, and put the engine back together (honed the cylinder and put the piston and rings form that big bear (same engine) in it and jumped it, makes 70psi compression!  :yes:

so my main issue now it the clutch seems like theres nothing behind it.  not sure whats wrong.  the arm is good, the cable it good, the inside (actual clutch itself) didnt look to be jammed, worn, or stuck...not sure whats wrong with it.

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