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I have a 2004 Yamaha Bear Tracker in the shop for repair. I have the service manual but it doesn't have all the information I need to fix the problem. I need to know the voltage output of the stator charge coil and pulse or trigger coil at cranking speed. The wiring diagram color code doesn't seem to match and that is compounded by the fact that the wiring harness CDI connector is missing so I have 7 wires that need to be connected to the CDI. I can not find a circuit diagram of the CDI which tells me where the pulse/trigger coil connects or the charge coil connects. The other 3 wires (black ground, orange ignition coil, and r/b ignition kill sw) also need to be connected. The CDI has a single 8 pin connector and has a P/N 4XE-00 F8T19871 -1122 number on it and I believe it to be OEM. However I think the Stator and pulse coil are aftermarket items. I have resistance tested everything and it all seems to be in spec. but I don't want to miss wire anything and cause damage. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I started this project a while ago.. I have decided to make one thread I can continuously update..
So , here we go. I got this Raptor 80 in really bad condition.. Rear end frozen, Engine toast, tires dry rotted, tons of rust..etc.. They admitted they beat on it very hard.
Since they do not make these with a drive shaft anymore I decided to restore it from top to bottom..
These are photos of when I got it home.
Next up, the tear down..
First, I needed to tear it down and determine if the rear end was still good... As we all know... That is where it would be cost prohibitive to restore if it is trashed..
Got it completely stripped down and I lucked out... The rear Drum brake was caked solid inside with dried mud. That was causing the rear end to lock up. Took off the rear brakes and the rear end spun perfectly smooth.
Once I got it all stripped apart I needed to take the finish off all the parts. I am going to be powder coating the frame and many parts.. Once the finish is off each part it will need to be sandblasted to white metal .. The guy I use for powder coating gives me a hefty discount if I bring the parts to him ready to go.
You could just sand blast, but that would take a long time to get the finish off. First I used Aircraft Paint Remover.. That stuff is pretty toxic Goggles and Resperator are required. That quickly gets you down to the metal... Then you can sand blast to white metal pretty quickly...
I had another thread I had started about a problem with the tear down... It has some great info .... here is the link... It is about removing the frame bushings. ....
By Bruce Sawyer
1987 YFM350FWTB 350 4x4 Big Bear when going uphill will sometimes act like the clutch realeases then re-engauge all at once.
Seems to maybe be little more often if the engine is at about 1/2 throttle instead of at lower rpms.
I have the Factory Service manual and checked the external clutch adjustment screw as ok and the H/L/reverse shifter lever linkage as adjusted correctly. It appears to be maybe a internal (inside the case) clutch issue or ??
This is the type Big Bear that has the manual shift lever on the left front fender and has the manual foot shifter lever with 5 speeds forward.
Can someone tell me how the primary and secondary clutch operates?
I assume one is mechanical and one is centrifugal. (what I'm asking is one clutch for the higher rpms and one for the lower rpms or ???. (the clutch appears to only momentarily release at the higher rpms is why I ask. The cycle has about 3000 miles of low speed through the brush hunting and has been well maintained, oil changed, etc and no deep water or mud useage.
Anyone been into a similar issue with the big Bear ATV????
got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price. one of which is a yamaha warrior. anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike? Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet. The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work. he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears. things I see: clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box. I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first. also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts. Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last). any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like. lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris
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I was given a 2008 Yamaha Timberwolf by my in laws a few weeks back. Of course my FIL said it hasn’t run in 8 years but all it needs is gas and oil!
That hasn’t been the case...so far I’ve replaced the spark plug, changed air filter, replaced battery, replaced fuel and oil filters, fresh oil and gas. I tried starting her up and no luck, it turns over but won’t get going.
Now I’ve moved on to cleaning the carburetor which I’ve heard is a common problem area. I can’t figure out how to remove the bowl at the bottom, any suggestions? I removed the four screws that I thought were holding it in place but the bowl won’t budge
Thanks and looking forward to getting her running!
Some photos of what I’ve got going on , this has taken over the garage
By Sharon van den Berg
We bought an old atv from friends to bum around on the farm with. VIN number is rusted off. Is there a way to determine the year model from the engine number? We only need the info to buy parts. Please help
Just picked this up at a yard sale, runs and drives..color coded wires for battery were backwards, Meaning a red wire was used for negative and a black for positive....
Upon bringing it home decided to boost the battery and walked away giving it a small charge prior to starting it..came back to find battery slightly smoking and my Green light for power (neutral) was no longer lit up...Still starts when i pull start it with key on.
Turn key on and no starter spin up, no lights
Id like to get my Electric start working, What could be the problem, Where does one start.
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