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OEM vs Aftermarket on a 95 kingquad 300


Mudrecon

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The cheaper carbs look, fit, and will work to get the bike running.  The minute you take off and ride  the bike starts to sputter and break down.  You will spend hours trying to dial it in with very frustrating results.  

Not worth the aggravation. 

What’s wrong with the OEM carb? It looks like it’s all there.   Take it apart and rebuild it.  

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if you replace the valve seals, I would recommend new valves as well as the old ones sometimes have a hard time re-setting into the head.  Also, I have had two bikes with aftermarket carbs and am satisfied with how they perform.  I say they are worth a shot at least, but @Frank Angerano and@06kfx440 have much more experience than i do.

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4 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

Good idea by rebuilding.   Nothing like the real deal. If you need any help let us know.  Take a compression reading and see how that goes.   Maybe just valve seals might be in order.   

gotta get the proper adapter for my compression tester - the universals got dry rot :) . Its been over 30 years since I used it.. I got an 'All Balls ' rebuild kit directly from the Suzuki dealer. Now I got to wait to find a manual to get the settings.

6 hours ago, 06kfx440 said:

I would say for your best bet, buy oem. You can't go wrong. Off shore carbs work but you'll never truly dial it in.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

Well I went to the dealer and he suggested the All Balls rebuild kit so I picked one up

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4 hours ago, JacobSlabach said:

if you replace the valve seals, I would recommend new valves as well as the old ones sometimes have a hard time re-setting into the head.  Also, I have had two bikes with aftermarket carbs and am satisfied with how they perform.  I say they are worth a shot at least, but @Frank Angerano and@06kfx440 have much more experience than i do.

oood points Jacob Tx

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used a electricians tri tap to gradually learn it's threads -it's all good. I put it on this morning and the blue smoke is gone but the carbs popping (lean?) and reving too high with the idle adjuster not even touching the cam. This is where I ask for help. Attached a small clip of her purring. Off to town but going to bring back some refreshments and work on it this afternoon. Hopefully one of you fine gentlemen will have a solution for me..Cheers

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Adjusting the carburetor won’t be difficult. It’s just a matter finesse.  What did you set the fuel air mixture screw at ? It should be in the range of 1-3/4 turns out from a snug tight position as a starting point. Then slowly turn the fuel air mixture screw out until the engine starts to rev up. Keep going until the rev starts to break up a bit or reach its best point  then turn the screw back Just a hair. 

If the bike is revving high lower the idle screw to a happy spot and see how it runs. 

 

 

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That's the problem, the idle cam isn't touching the adjustment screw but it's revving to high...

1 hour ago, Frank Angerano said:

Adjusting the carburetor won’t be difficult. It’s just a matter finesse.  What did you set the fuel air mixture screw at ? It should be in the range of 1-3/4 turns out from a snug tight position as a starting point. Then slowly turn the fuel air mixture screw out until the engine starts to rev up. Keep going until the rev starts to break up a bit or reach its best point  then turn the screw back Just a hair. 

If the bike is revving high lower the idle screw to a happy spot and see how it runs. 

 

 

 

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