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By Steve Howard
Ran find shut down the quad next day would start and idle when you try to accelerate it would start popping through the carb got a rebuild kit soaked it in chem clean after break down for 12 hours on slow vibrate reassembled and adjusted per manual still the same thing any help would be really appreciated thanks and happy ridding
recently picked up some project bikes off CL for cheap. got a honda fourtrax (the ancient 4x4 kind with the straight axle in the front as well as the rear and a back-up kick-start) plastics are crap, but my goal is to get running like a champ and patch the plastics up and sell to one of my many friends that want a reliable 4x4 for dirt cheap and doesnt care what it looks like.
so the former owner says it needs carb rebuilt, but its sat for 3+ years since so who knows. things I see: carb is missing (he gave me a box of parts along with the bike), engine turns over and feels good with kick-start, brakes need work, battery missing (That always puts me off, cause then I know most likely someone's been tampering with the electrical.
Can anyone point me to a good set of instructions for changing front diff oil on a 1987 Suzuki LT4WD? I can almost guess which bolts are drain & fill... but I've been wrong before... 😆
I found some partial posts on other forums and they linked out to dead images and whatnot. Any help appreciated.
This thing is running pretty good, got the front brakes back to life, electric start works fine, seat cover fixed up, plastics stitched back together...
BEFORE (last week):
By Ed Zeppeli
I have some wobble in my right rear wheel. Too much wobble.
So I've torn into it and will need two bearings and two (different) seals. I'd like to get them locally if possible but need to know the number on the sides of the bearings and seals as I don't know that my bearing shop can source them by vehicle model. I'm told they're very common bearings.
Any idea what the numbers are if mine end up being illegible?
Fixing up a 1998 King Quad 300. The rear brake was locked up, and the owner tried to force it free and snapped the axle.
I disconnected the brake cable, and tapped on the backing plate with a soft mallet to get the brake freed up. When I pulled off the brake drum a bunch of nasty rust water came out.
Once I had the axle out, I popped the boot off so I could see the inner u joint so I could phase/synchronize it with the outer. There was a flat steel disc floating around in the boot, looks like it used to be pressed into the end of the axle. Glad I got that out of there before it munched up the joint.
The book says the yokes should be aligned, I couldn't get mine aligned. They were always 7 degrees off from each other. A bit frustrating, maybe that's within the tolerance limits?
But I got it all back together and it runs great.
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By Robert Ochoa
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I have a problem here, she starts and only runs for about a minute on her own fuel. her idle is high then boggs down. Then she seems to have
a light backfire then dies. Any ideas what to look for are appreciated. Ive already gone through the carbs.
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