Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Sonders

new to me 01' Kodiak 400

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.  New guy here with my first Yamaha quad.  Traded for an 01' Kodiak 400 that needs some tlc.  It was running but idle is off, missing some hardware here and there, none of the lights work on instrument panel and front brakes didn't work were the main things that jumped out at me.  I drug it home and have started tearing into it.  Started with fresh oil change and flushed the dirty brown coolant and replaced with fresh coolant.  The carburetor is missing the side cover for the throttle cable and I don't see where I can buy just that cover without buying a complete carb, so went ahead and ordered a new one (hasn't arrived yet).  the Starter relay solenoid was crap and had to mess with it to get it to start half the time so replaced it.  I have a few questions as I'm going through this quad that I'll list below.

 

1. It has a cut plug on wiring harness under the instrument panel.  Can anyone tell me what this plug goes to?  There currently is not a plug running to the 4wd indicator light on instrument cluster so I'm wondering if 2 of the wires are for that possibly??

 

2.  Also in the front, there is a air duct under the rack and black plastic panel that runs down to the engine case.  Is there supposed to be some sort of cover or anything over it?  I looked online at parts diagrams and couldn't even find this duct or the duct that runs up by taillight in any of the diagrams.

 

3. this fuel line on top left side of carburetor; is this what goes to the gas tank cap or is it just a vent line for carb?  Follow up question, where does the line that comes off of the gas tank cap go to?

 

I'm sure I'll have many more questions as I work through this thing.  Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

wire plug.jpg

front duct.jpg

carb top.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


did some digging and found out the harness that was cut is actually the dash indicator lights for temperature and 4wd.  Got new plug ordered so should take care of 2 questions I was asking about.  Previous owner had the light plug for the speedometer plugged into the temp indicator.  I couldn't find the cover I was needing for the side of the carburetor so had to order new carb.  Looking through service manual it looks like the gas vent line I was asking about on the side of carb is in fact just a vent tube.  Still wondering about the air duct that comes up in the front between radiator and handlebars; but I can't seem to find any details about it in service manual or parts diagrams.  Been plugging away at this thing, stripping it down and cleaning it up.  About time to start putting it back together and get it on the road.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work so far.  That vent line coming off the carb is just that, a vent line.  It usually wraps right up by the gas tank under the plastics.  There should be another one coming off the bottom of the carburetor bowl and that one is routed down the frame to the bottom of the bike. 

The vent hose on the gas cap is usually stuck in a hole on the dash board and does not connect to anything other then the cap.  

The air duct your referring to is probably an aftermarket snorkel that should have extended up in front of the handle bars.   It’s for riding in deep water that allows air to continually flow into the air box.  That’s my guess anyway.  Post some pics and we will let you know for sure. 

That plug your adding back to the dash I see you figured out, nice work.  Hopefully the new plug will wires right up and your good to go.  

Do you have the wire diagram for that bike ?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey Frank, thanks for the reply.  Yes, I located wiring diagram online; that's how I figured out what the plug that is cut is for.  The air duct is the round pipe that is in 2nd picture I posted above.  it runs down to the transmission case.  There is also one that runs from just under the taillight and into the backside of the transmission case as well.  Looks to me like the one in front should have some sort of screen over it or something.  Attached is how the bike currently sits.  I'm waiting on a few parts to arrive before I start putting it back together.  You can kind of see the rear air duct tube that runs behind the taillight down to the backside of transmission case.

kodiak stripped down.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I also need to figure out how to adjust the rear brake.  I'm wondering if I can just bleed it like I did the fronts as the foot pedal is close to bottomed out currently.  I'm a little confused though as I found the service manual for it on this site and as I looked through it, it shows it having a rear drum brake.  Mine however has rear disc brake. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Could have been a conversation kit added or a change over year where the manufacturer added disc brakes.   But yes the premise is the same with regard to bleeding.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's what I was thinking Frank.  Going to give bleeding the rear a try sometime this week.  It was missing the engine guard/skid plate when I got it.   A new oem one was about $60.  I found a few used ones on ebay for $15 but are for 03' and up models and are a full 1 piece plate.  I went ahead and got one and am going to try cutting it down to just the middle piece that I need.  Or remove the front plate that is still on mine and see if I can get the full 1 piece plate to mount up on it.  We'll see what happens when it arrives later this week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What the heck might as well do a little custom work.  That’s one of the best things about working on these older bikes.  You can modify, customize etc and not worry if it gets screwed up.

 eBay has a ton of stuff which is great. Now the wait starts for shipping!!! Hate that part! 

Good luck with the work.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

got bottom engine guard cut down to fit and installed this weekend.  About ready to fire this thing back up.  I do have a question.  Speedometer doesn't work so I ordered a new speedo cable.  Does anybody know the correct process of disconnecting it from the engine housing and installing the new one?  I see there are a few gears in the speedo housing and I don't want to risk tearing anything up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

have this thing mostly back together and had it running this weekend.  I ran it up and down the driveway a few times and noticed it's cutting out which leads me to believe the carb will need to be adjusted.  I just need to figure out correct way to do that.  All the issues I had from original post have been taken care of, except for speedometer cable.  I had one on order at local dealer but it is backordered.  Looks like that fix will be waiting awhile.  It was having issue with going into Low and High range when I first got it as well, but that ended up being because the idle was too high.  I've got it idled down lower and it shifts into gear no problem.  I also need to get a fuel gauge for the tank sometime and install as it's missing and just has a homemade plug where the gauge goes.  I thought I got a good deal on this thing with the issues it had, but boy are the parts receipts adding up.......

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Considering the work you’ve done and the money you spent where are you currently at? 

Adjusting the carburetor is not hard at all. But make sure you are able to get to the air fuel mixture  screw first and that it can be adjusted with the air box on and covered. All you should have to do is set the idle high enough so the bike stays running during this process.  

Then while the engine is running you turn the air/fuel screw in either direction.  One way or the other the engine will start to rev higher. That’s the right direction.  Keep turning the screw until the rev reaches its maximum and starts to decline. Stop there and go back a hair.  Lower the idle to a good setting and you should be good to go.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

on top of what I originally paid for it, if I have all my receipts all added up I'm currently at $1,600.  So not terrible,  It will need a few more items eventually, but once I get the carb adjusted correctly I'm going to run it as is for awhile.  I'll have to take a closer look, when I get home, but do you know where exactly the air fuel mixture screw is on the carb on these quads? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not too bad. I would say if you’ve kept it under $1800 your fine.  

That screw is located on the bottom of the carburetor in a very difficult spot. Some of the time they are covered by a brass plug that has to be drilled out.   Your going to have to get a small/short screwdriver to get up in there to make adjustments.   

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks, I'll take a look when I get home this evening.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Located fuel/air mixture screw on carb last night, but not sure how the heck I'm going to get to it to adjust.  I had a pocket screwdriver, but still couldn't get to it well enough to turn the screw any.  Going to have to regroup and try again tonight if I can find a shorter screwdriver.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If your able to, what I do is find an old cheap screwdriver and cut the shaft from the flat tip down about an inch. Then reconnect them with a tight fitting piece of rubber hose. This makes the screwdriver flexible and can make a nice turn.  If not they sell a small right angle flat tip screwdriver. 

I-MART 3 Pcs Offset Screwdriver Set Right Angle Phillips Screw Driver/Flat Head https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HDJGV92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ahOeDbAQAZV07

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ok, had some time to mess with this last night but didn't have much luck.   Warning, long read to follow:

 I found a small right angle screwdriver in tool kit I keep in my car to use on fuel/air mix screw on carb.  I felt around for the screw to get the screwdriver on it but couldn't find the head of it.  I got frustrated and ended up removing the carb to get a better look.  The screw is a weird one, or it has cap over it like you mentioned earlier in the thread Frank.  Keep in mind this is a new aftermarket carb (pic of what I was seeing below).  I didn't know what to do with that, so I robbed a few parts off of the new carb and put on the oem carb and stuck the oem carb on the quad.  Once oem carb was installed I tried firing it up and it just cranked but wouldn't fire.  After a few tries the starter stayed engaged and kept cranking over so I had to disconnect the battery.  This was a new problem I've not encountered before.  I installed the original starter relay solenoid to see if that made a difference and it did as the starter only cycled when I hit the starter button like it was supposed to (weird).  I tried starting a few more times and still no luck getting it to fire.  Next I checked for spark by removing spark plug and touching it to the cylinder head and boy did it have plenty of spark as it shocked the crap out of me.  I removed the oem carb and swapped the few parts back to new aftermarket carb and installed it back on the quad and wouldn't you know it, it fired right up and idled as smooth as can be.  I rode it up and down the driveway a few times to see how it ran and still same issue with it cutting out as I got on the throttle.  So basically back to square one where I started.  Any thoughts on what I'm looking at on the aftermarket carb air/fuel mixture?  Also attached is a pic of the quad put back together minus the tank and engine side covers.

fuel air mixture.jpg

Kodiak almost assembled.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I laughed my ass off on the spark testing process.  Well at least spark is good! 

So that small brass plug with the two small button holes in it. That’s a tamper proof cap. You can buy the right tip at any hardware store or make one up by grinding the middle of a screw driver out to look like a two prong screw driver that fits with adjusting as your grinding.  Or a small very pointed needle nose pliers.  Unscrew that and the air/fuel screw should be underneath it.  If you unscrew it all the way and it has the needle attached then it’s the actual air fuel screw itself.   That would suck because it’s going to be a bitch to adjust while the bike is running but your going to have to modify that angle screwdriver with a grinder to fit the holes and go that route. 

The air/fuel screw should be set right around 2-1/4 turns out from a snug tight position.  So try that first and run the bike and see how it goes.  

Also double check the float level. While the carburetor is off the bike take the bowl/float cover off. Hook a clean hose up to the fuel connection on the carburetor. Hold the carburetor straight as if it were on the engine and blow into the hose. Air should come out of the bottom of the carb where the float pin is.  As your blowing air raise the float up and see how far up the float goes before the air stops.  It should be about 3/4 way up.  If it’s closing sooner then it needs to be adjusted. 

See how that works out and get back.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I checked what the oem carb was set on and it was 2 -1/4 turns.  I wonder if I can get a replacement fuel/air mixture screw needle that has the turn screw sticking out bottom that is easier to adjust.  Busy the next few evening, so will be the weekend before I get a chance to mess with it anymore.  Man I just want to get this darn thing on the road.  I also started to disassemble the oem carb lastnight to check it over but 2 of the damn screws on bowl had stripped heads so couldn't get them off.  Was just an overall frustrating evening; I finally had to just call it a night.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Use a pair of needle nose vice grips and grab the sides of the screws on the carburetor. I’ve done that and had great success. 

And keep in mind that this may not be a air fuel issue and just a starved fuel condition caused by the float not filling the bowl, the needle jet E clip may not be set in the right groove. An air starvation at the intake as well. 

Heck it  could be electrical for all we know.  

So process of elimination is going to be key here and keeping your cool Bc this can be a frustrating thing. So walking away for a few days is not a bad thing.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yea ive shoked myself before-  those darn little ignition coils have more juice on them than outlets in houses...

shocked

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so the experience ive had with aftermarket carbs has been hit or miss.  but one thing i know does NOT work is using the jets from your aftermarket carb in the oem carb.  i tried that with my bayou and it never ran worse- had the same issue yours does- would idle great but coughed and sputtered with throttle.  I always try cleaning the oem carb first before buying an aftermarket, and never throw away an oem carb- they are worth a lot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, JacobSlabach said:

so the experience ive had with aftermarket carbs has been hit or miss.  but one thing i know does NOT work is using the jets from your aftermarket carb in the oem carb.  i tried that with my bayou and it never ran worse- had the same issue yours does- would idle great but coughed and sputtered with throttle.  I always try cleaning the oem carb first before buying an aftermarket, and never throw away an oem carb- they are worth a lot.

I agree with you Jacob.  As soon as I’m able to get the last stripped screw out of fuel bowl of oem carb I plan to go through it and rebuild it.  I mainly got the aftermarket one for the throttle cable cover and the throttle adjuster (they were missing from oem one when I bought it).  No way would I toss the oem carb.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

sounds like a good plan to me- ive had trouble with those stripped screw heads too-  sometimes heat works- but not very safe to use a blow torch on a carb cause of the gas...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By Gary Patch
      Hi my linhai 300 is hard to start and  engages gears at idle which is 1200 rpm was looking at cdi says on it 7500 rpm does this mean quad should idle at 7500 rpm as this would explain transmission problemb as idle is too high thanks gary
    • By Asen_77
      Hi All,
      My name is Asen and I am from Eastern Europe, Bulgaria. Riding a Yamaha Raptor 700R and this is my first Quad wanted for a vey long time :)

       
    • By Wes Camp
      So I bought an 88 qaudracer real nice bike fired up 2-3 kick everytime. When I bought it the brake calipers were not on the bike the guy gave them to me In a box with parts to rebuild. So I HAVnt ever really rode the bike except a quick run testing gears when I bought and I started it and drove in yard not getting out of 3rd due to no brakes. I put it in garage turned it off. The following weekend I put brakes on and go to kick it and it’s seized. I did put it in high gear and rocked it back and forth and got it to kick a couple times. But has seized back up. Any ideas??? Could it be a kicker malfunction??
    • By Nigel Bourn
      I’ve just bought one of these and came here looking for a service manual
      Mine has an air cleaner that I don’t seem to be able to find, it has round ends with square tabs on them, any ideas?
       
    • By JacobSlabach
      got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price.  one of which is a yamaha warrior.  anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike?  Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet.  The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work.  he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears.  things I see:  clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box.  I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first.  also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts.  Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last).  any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
      the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like.  lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris 
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...