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By mike costa
Motor starts right up, but when I open it up past quarter throttle it bogs way down while ridding, the longer it runs the worse it gets. If I just leave it in neutral and give it full throttle it revs up and down.
Bike sat for 3 years,
Installed new plug, cleaned the fuel tank, took it to a shop and had the carburetor gone though.
Picked up from shop, motor bogged down first day and barely got me back to the truck an 1 mph.
Took back to shop after a month I was told it had a bad plug, I told him I just replaced it.
Got quad home and it is doing the same thing!!!!!!!!!
Thanks in advance for your support!
The carburetor has recently been gone through by a shop
It appears that the Service Manual thread at top of forum is dead as all the links no longer work. I'm actually looking for service manual for a 2000 KVF300 Prairie that I just picked up. Does anybody have link to one that they can share, or know where I can find one? Thanks in advance for any help.
By Ryann Racho
So Id say about 2 years back I bought a 2013 Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. off of my uncle. It ran perfectly, nothing wrong at all. I usually go mudding with it or just ride trails with buddies. So as you would assume, the quad is quite dirty from sitting for a few weeks.
STUTTERING PROBLEM: I noticed one day out of nowhere that in high gear at 15-20 MPH, I was already maxed out at 4500-5000 RPM It would get to 15-20 mph, max out on rpms and start sputtering. It sounded like it was basically acting like it couldn’t go any faster than this.
IDLING PROBLEM: I was fucking with the carberator the other day maybe thinking that is causing my sputtering, and now my idle will shoot up to 2600 on start usually, then I will turn the throttle adjustment down to the normal 1400. The rpms with then fluctuate 10-30 rpms back and forth repeatedly, it will then run for about another 30-60 seconds and the RPMs will slowly drop to about 900-1000 RPM and stall out. I replaced the carburetor and everything seems to be working perfect on that, no leaks and what not but it’s still acting strange. Also, I’ve noticed that when looking into the Electronic Throttle Control that two plates that aren’t supposed to touch have to be WAY past touching to even try to fire up. Even when set at a wide open throttle like that, I still have to give it some throttle to get it to fire up.
Here is what I have done so far:
Checked the belt and clutch
Changed out spark plug (Last one was covered in carbon)
Cleaned the intake and air box
Replaced the carburetor
Replaced the inline fuel filter
Checked that all lines on carburetor are connected into the right spots
Checked If intake boot was cracked (Not from what I can see)
Unhooked and reattached new carburetor (About 4-5 times)
Cleaned battery terminals and battery off
Shut on and off Gas Line Cutoff Valve
My next thoughts are that maybe the TPS is fucked up or maybe the Spark Arrestor is plugged with mud. I was thinking tomorrow to purge the exhaust and also check the ohms output on the TPS.
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. I HAVE BEEN BATTLING THIS FOR WEEK AND REALLY WANT TO GO RIDING. THANK YOU!
Let me start with I have about 30 years of ATC experience, but not much with stuff made after 1988. Some, but I'm mechanically inclined so it's all good. I"m rehabbing a 1997 Bayou 220 to send back into the wild and the mechanicals are now all good, just working on making the electrical system...electric. Right now, I have no power on the white wire as tested directly on the plug at the starter solenoid. I'm assuming that wire is supposed to be hot any time it's attached to a battery? The genius that had it before snipped a couple wires and inserted a fairly heavy push button for electric start bypassing the electrical system. I think i've corrected everything north of the solenoid but the white wire has me stumped. Is my assumption that this should always be hot with a hot battery correct? Does this indicate a broken circuit in the starter solenoid? Relay was also bad and wired incorrectly, but that's resolved and I can make the relay click bypassing the solenoid and connector, directly giving the white wire 12V. Thoughts?
I am looking to see why my 2005 Grizzly 660 won't crank. I have set the valves but suspect a loose timing chain.
When working to remove the valve cover I found a "cap tensioner case" - parts #25 - #299 on Babbitts site.
The cover seems to bridge the valve cover and the cylinder head. What the hell is it and what surprises will I find if I remove it?
Uncharted territory for me.
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