Quantcast
Jump to content

  • Join Today, It's Simple and FREE!

    As a member, you can post in our forums, upload your photos and videos, use and contribute to our downloads, create your own member page, add your ATV events, and even start your own ATV club to host your own club forum and gallery.  Registration is fast and you can even login with social network accounts to sync your profiles and content.

Kelby 746

1987-89 Kawasaki Bayou 300 Electrical Issues

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have a 1987-89 (not sure on the year) Kawasaki bayou 300 that has electrical issues, I have replaced the entire harness with a proven good/used one, new CDI box, and two brand new coils, problem is that it tests no charge at the pickup coil, so I replaced and tested again with a so called good one that had been salvaged out of a blown up 220/250 (not sure which, the left side cover is smaller than my 300) in Missouri. It has a proven good OEM stator. I am trying to avoid buying a new start and pickup coil because it is so expensive so if anyone has a suggestion please let me know.

Edited by Kelby 746
Needed to add more info and a year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


I’m confused. You did all this work and your not getting a charge? That’s strange, what kind of testing on the charging system are you doing? Have you checked the rectifier/regulator ?  

First off I would locate the vin# and do a check this way you can find the exact year.  Tons of web sites to check for free.  

Honestly I would put a new stator/pick up coil in. I use a brand called Caltric on eBay or amazon. About $75 bucks. They have always fit and worked well. 

You should also check that everything is turning inside the engine in order to produce current at the coil.  When the cover is off spin the engine and make sure rotation is good.  

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m testing right at the pickup coil and I know everything moves freely because I had charge at the stator, I’ve been trying to deal with this for about 9 months now and up to about $500 in parts. I’ll try the new stator idea thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok when you get the new stator and its installed let’s recap and go over it all again.  Did you find the year ? And if so a wire diagram ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another thing, I cannot find a vin. It just has the KLF 300c Made in USA sticker.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Posted (edited)

spacer.pngOkay I switched around connections on the pickup coil and now it’s reading .45 ohms all the time and .70 when I crank it with the hand because the staters bad. I also have a book with all the wiring diagrams for every year. I look at the 1987-89 klf 300 4x4 for mine and it matches up perfectly.

Edited by Kelby 746

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stator or starter is bad ? And the stator you tested phase to phase and. Then each leg to ground ? If so what did you get ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The starter is completely shot, the generator inside is completely flat. And I did all the connections with the stator and it read 8 ohms all the way through, a little low but by hand seems about right to me at least.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Forget by hand and rotating the motor.

Testing on the stator can be done without rotating the engine.   Ohms tests done on a standing stator phase to phase and then each phase to ground. 

First test 

Phase to phase (each wire from the stator)  should be equal when you test from one phase to another and do all of them.  They should be pretty close to each other on an ohms setting. The manual will tell you what the range should be. 

Second test:

Take one phase of the stator (one wire) on the tester and the  other tester probe to ground.  You should get no reading on the tester.   Do that for all three wires. If you do then there is a short within the coils on the stator. No need to test any more, it’s bad! 

Third test 

Pick up coil put the tester on ohms and on the two wires of the pick up coil. You should get a reading. Check the manual and it will show you what the acceptable range is. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so I did what you said and everything reads out as follows: two ohms with it set on 200 ohms but reading set at 2 ohms and none set at 20 ohms. There is no short within, it does not register a reading from probe in stator to probe on ground for any. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


The readings seem low.  Did you review the manual to see the acceptable range ? And the pick up coil readings ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By JacobSlabach
      got 7 atvs off CL recently for a good price.  one of which is a yamaha warrior.  anyone know where the vin is printed on this bike?  Haha good place to start as I do not know year or size yet.  The former owner says needs exhaust ans and clutch work.  he said it ran fine until the clutch cable broke and then I couldn't get the new cable adjusted right and it would grind gears.  things I see:  clutch cable locked up again, no brakes, carb leaking (green with algae around the bowl and has gelled gas stalagtights on it), aftermarket exhaust melted the airbox so I need something different and a new air box.  I would like the use the current exhaust if I can but I have a feeling its a redneck fix as it looks like there is an ace bandage holding it to the exhaust pipe (its an aftermarket slip-on exhaust), so I'm not sure about that- lets get the bike running first.  also, battery (looks brand new, what a shame) is dead, 0 volts.  Otherwise, bike looks to have not been wrecked, and plastics are ok (it sat outside under a 'tarp' for 3+ years since it was run last).  any tips and advise on where to start first would be awesome as this is my first clutched bike (manual).
      the clutch is my main concern- I've never rode a clutched bike so I dont even know what its supposed to feel like.  lol I'm spoiled on my automatic polaris 
    • By Arizona
      So a few weeks ago ended up buying a 02 Bayou 300 for 100.00
      Get there to see it and motor was gone through and parts missing, stuff not connected
      and a big freekin bucket of parts and bolts. He said had no power and mechanic said it was
      the wrist pin. Ended up leaving it in pieces and left like that. I end up getting most of it back together
      and manage to get it to fire up. I drive it and has no power! No missing just no power. I figure check 
      the timing chain as he did replace that. Well I spin the motor over and guess what!
      A blind guy could have done a better jobs. Just one question, I  loosen the top bolt on the tensioner then remove it
      right? Nothing is gonna fall inside the motor is it? just making sure, need this out before I can move the cam gear 
      to the right location. Thanks in advance Az
       
       



    • By Jeff Wolf
      Bought a nonrunning 1996 bayou 400. Tore down engine and found major problems. Piston is damaged and cylinder liner needs replacing. Looks like cause was a broken oil pump gear.
       
      Question is can a piston from a prairie 400 be used? Is it the same engine? I assume the liner is replaceable?
       
       
    • By mike costa
      Has any one tried using the Harbor Freight Winch mounting plate on a 2001 Kawasaki 300 4x4 Bayou? 
    • By Locke DoBay
      Hello I'm new here and not sure on where this should be posted but here goes. I have a 2007 Kawasaki 360 4x4, it started to make a small knocking sound and few weeks ago. I checked all the normal things and didn't find anything. I just used it around the house as my yard machine, no real heavy loads or stress on it. And it ran fine with no problems. Well one day I went to roll my yard with my roller that i filled with sand. It put the 4wheeler under a load for the first time, well it ran fine for about 20 mins then i stopped to do something and it started but there was nothing there. It would not rev up enough to engage the belt drive and the knock got a lot louder. Sounds like the knock is coming from the top end. And ideas in where to start. I have worked on some stuff and mechanically inclined just never tore into an engine before.
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Tubecatgs
      A friend of mine has this Bayou 220 that started running bad and parked it a few years ago. I foolishly volunteered to take a look at it. I noticed right away the choke plunger on the carb was broken and probably the reason it was running bad but now the old gas was evaporated and like turpentine. Before i even tried to start it, i drained/ thoroughly washed the tank out, new fuel filter, new fuel lines. Blew air through the petcock etc. Changed the oil and filter and air filter and new choke plunger and cable. I disassembled the carb and rebuilt it with a kit. I cleaned the main jet with solvent and poked a wire through it to make sure it is clean.. the engine now fires right up with the choke on and dies when i take the choke off. I adjusted the air/fuel screw to about 1.5 turns out and the idle screw about 2.5 turns out. The rubber boot between the carb and head does not have any cracks in it so I don't think it is leaking air. I originally had the clip on the needle on the second from the top ring... when i moved it all the way to the bottom it starts, runs and idles really fast and will idle eeally high with the choke off but if i adjust the throttle cable and/or idle screw to a slower idle it will sometimes stall but the idle will go up and down every few seconds and when you give it gas there is a hesitation... i tried moving the clip down to rhe second from bottom and same problem... i replaced all the parts in the pic to the top right. However, there appears to be a small o ring, washer and spring left over from the kit... i did not see these get removed..... a) any idea if where these extra parts go and if i need them and b) any other ideas on why i cant get it to idle right or carb adjustment ideas?
      Thanks
    • By Samuel Myers
      So, I've been having issues with my Bayou 220. It's gotten to the point where it was parked for 4 years just because of the issues.
      Issue 1, Grabby clutch: The clutch is adjusted incorrectly and grabs when shifting from neutral to 1st. It grabs before the engine has a chance to rev, which stalls it.
      Issue 2, Starter clutch blown out: The starter clutch is busted and spins free both directions.
      Issue 3, bad shocks: The springs or shocks are bad and the quad leans hard when getting on.
    • By wrench66
      Hi all,
      I recently acquired an old Bayou from a neighbor that I cleaned up a got running, then from nowhere a problem crops up where it refuses to start........ I pull the plug and it has no spark, pulled the plug cap off and laid the bare wire on the exhaust header and still nothing......once in a while though when I push the starter button but as I let off the button it might spark once. Now it did begin sparking normally just once and I plugged everything back in and it ran normally again until I turned the engine off. Next time I tried starting it we were back to no spark or the one spark deal.
      I have tested the stator wires at 140 ohm, the pick up at 130 ohm (I can't seem to find a reliable number for these values online), I bought a new ignition coil and ignition switch on chance those may have been the problem but were not, not sure where to look from here......... does the starter relay switch have anything to do with the ignition on these? I know these older Bayou's are magneto type ignitions and do not need battery power to operate but I wonder if there are safety switches involved I may not be aware of. Also, can someone point me to a good wiring schematic for the magneto 220's? Pre 95 I believe.
      thanks for any help!
      -- Ray
    • By Summer Warren
      Hey I just recently bought a 2002 Kawasaki Bayou 220 when you shift it jumps a lot and while it’s riding it it’s jumping as well but won’t stay started when you let off the gas Could somebody tell me what could possibly be the problem? Thank you
    • By Alan Callison
      OK ya'll.My son bought this thing and was told its a Kaw Bayou 300. Maybe. I cant find any numbers on it.The one tag I did find its so faded as to be unreadable. Its a long shot but maybe someone can help ID it. Thanks in advance.









  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...