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recently picked up some project bikes off CL for cheap. got a honda fourtrax (the ancient 4x4 kind with the straight axle in the front as well as the rear and a back-up kick-start) plastics are crap, but my goal is to get running like a champ and patch the plastics up and sell to one of my many friends that want a reliable 4x4 for dirt cheap and doesnt care what it looks like.
so the former owner says it needs carb rebuilt, but its sat for 3+ years since so who knows. things I see: carb is missing (he gave me a box of parts along with the bike), engine turns over and feels good with kick-start, brakes need work, battery missing (That always puts me off, cause then I know most likely someone's been tampering with the electrical.
Can anyone point me to a good set of instructions for changing front diff oil on a 1987 Suzuki LT4WD? I can almost guess which bolts are drain & fill... but I've been wrong before... 😆
I found some partial posts on other forums and they linked out to dead images and whatnot. Any help appreciated.
This thing is running pretty good, got the front brakes back to life, electric start works fine, seat cover fixed up, plastics stitched back together...
BEFORE (last week):
By Jeni Lynn
2012 Rancher ES-- only when driving in 4x4 when I get to about 15-18mph there is a loud clunk in the front end and a hard downward jerk. Its almost as if its trying to downshift itself. It doesn't do it in 2 wheel drive. I have checked the angle shift sensor and applied dielectric grease to it, changed the front end differential fluid (the old still looked good and clean) checked and adjusted the clutch. Hopefully someone can give me some more ideas.
So I bought a 2001 Quad Runner 250 for my son/wife. Sorry I run a Grizzly 660.
I’ve rode it many times with no issue.
My son’s first time out, I could always hear him but feeling he ran it red line in first gear a lot.
So this is what it was doing during/end of the 2-3 hour ride:
- halfway though noticed smoke (oil) coming from front of the motor sort of under exhaust manifold. Once back at the truck, it was really noticeable. Definitely oil burning off. I’m thinking from the top end maybe.
So quick inspection:
- No leaks or seepage of oil that I could see
- I pulled the plug and it’s black but not wet
- No blue/white smoke in exhaust
- seems to still ride fine
- Engine still has plenty of oil
But now that I’m looking at it back at the house - it’s a hard/won’t start when hot. It starts right up cold no problem but once it stalls when hot, have to let it sit for 10-15 before it will start again.
It wasn’t idling before that trip so I jacked up the idle a bit as well but I think that’s a carb clean/adjustment but...
Any input is appreciated.
Thanks for any help.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Over the years I have always used a friends machine, and only ride a few times a year. Last week I purchased a 2002 Polaris Sportsman 700. The front diff needs a rebuild, the axles are very loose where they go into diff. My question is, both front wheels rotate forward by hand, but do not rotate the opposite direction. Is this "NORMAL OPERATION" I plan on rebuilding the hubs at the same time as the diff.....
My question about the rear diff, it rolls as if the machine has a total POSI rear axle...……. I lifted the front end off the garage floor with overhead hoist, as I moved it sideways the rear tires skidded rather than rotate. Both would roll forward easy, but not go in a circle. When I drove the machine in the garage making a tight turn I could feel the binding and skidding of rear tires.... Even if the switch was in 4 wheel drive, when it's hanging in te air the ignition is off...….. with the machine in 2 wheel drive mode, is that HONESTLY 1 wheel drive to allow turning without tearing up the lawn? then it locks the rear axle once it's put into 4 wheel drive? I'm guessing the rear diff needs a rebuild also because there is something "BALLED UP" internally locking the rear wheels together?
It's a old machine that was not maintained, I thought the wheels were all rusted, but it was 17 years off baked on red clay. Just wanting to make it a reliable machine. I have great mechanical ability, just lacking a little knowledge of what is suppose to be "NORMAL OPERATING STANDARDS"
Thank you in advance for sharing your knowledge.
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By Jordan Alexander
The title is for attention. I’m prepping my cylinder head off of an unknown year 400ex to install on my quad. And I’m examining it and there’s literally a Jewish start( Star of David) protruding from the metal on the camshaft side of the head. It’s not imprinted or etched/ engraved. It’s coming out of the metal. DOES ANYONE HAVE INFORMATION ON WHY ITS THERE??? I’ve attached a picture
So after my 400ex pep up (High comp piston, stage 2 hot cam, and some others), There was a malfunction with the rocker arm jam-nut; guess it wasn't torqued to spec. The rocker arm nut caused the lash to become too out of clearance and I bent a valve on a test rip high in the rpm range. There was no damage to the piston but only that valve, a couple dents in the head, and a completely destroyed valve guide. So I decided to take it upon myself (after watching kenoconnors race porting instructions and reading up on this subject) to port my cylinder head significantly. I had the head decked, cylinder honed and smoothed/polished the dome/exhaust port (intake wasn't polished but dimpled slightly to ensure fuel atomization). So after porting, decking the head, I had all valves and guides replaced/reamed, 5 angle valve job, and recut seats, then I installed xr400 gaskets (for higher compression), carb jets; 42 pilot, 175 or 6 main not sure, dynojet needle, k and n filter with no lid, enlarging of header ports and big gun eco slip on exhaust for a 450r, trx 250r coil (adds 1000+ rpm to limiter), 11:1 85mm piston, stg 2 hc with springs and retainers replaced, and polished rocker arms. I then replaced both sprockets one down in front and stock in rear, o ring chain, and 18in tires. There is a larger list of mods but these were the only ones affecting acceleration/performance. On the dyno, this quad put down 42rwhp and was estimated at 46 to the flywheel. Once again this was 42 to the wheel on the stock bore/carb size/header. All this was done at 16 yrs old. You may not be able to see it in the picture but peak whp was 42 on a mustang dyno.
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