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Dimelol

2003 Yamaha Kodiak 450 troubleshooting ignition system

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22 hours ago, spock58 said:

There should be a few more pieces that go on top of the needle, you have them ok? and did you remove the main jet, needle jet, o-ring, holder, etc. from the carb body? a few more pics would be helpful to see if there's anything missing in there.

 

16 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

If that engine is not responding to the adjustment on the air/fuel mixture screw then there’s definitely a problem within the carb.  I know you’ve been through it all with this carb but somethings off.   Especially because it does not shut down when you send it all the way in.  

I took a few more pics today but some came out crappy, because I didn't realize my flash was going off.  So i apologize for that. I can take more tomorrow if need be. There is a short video as well of the slide operating as well. I figured that might be relevant considering i really don't know how one should operate/sound. Thanks again.

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8 hours ago, scotty2hotty01 said:

look on amazon for new carb as cheap there.Just a another idea but bought one for a weedwacker for 10.00 delivered work great again.Compression good and gas is new too use highest grade OK I out of ideas but also got to be carb 

 

7 hours ago, Frank Angerano said:

Not sure if you want to go down this road but here’s a used one on eBay.  It looks in tact and in great condition. Just not sure about your existing carburetor and what’s been done to it. 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F362698319020

 

I appreciate the advice/link. I found one on Amazon during all this mess for like 40.00. Of course it is a knock off, but it has pretty good reviews. I may end up trying that route. All i know is, I wont be happy if i dump like $100 into OEM parts for this one and it not solve the issue. That's why i was hoping that one of these pictures and my re-inspection would find an obvious problem with my current one. I wouldn't mind spending the money then. I may also consider that used one on ebay that you linked, it may need to be rebuilt as well according to the auction though. It's funny that you mention my carb and what may have been done to it. I had to replace most of the hardware due to whoever was in it before me, and the more i think about that the more it concerns me now. I'm no expert obviously, but i'm not a complete idiot either. I was careful about making sure everything i took apart went back together correctly. I appreciate you fellas trying to help me solve this problem.

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Just got a look at your pictures, good quality shots! The third from last shows you holding the needle jet with the main jet attached. The separated part at the bottom is what I believe may be worn. If it isn't in spec, then it allows fuel to get past the needle at closed throttle when it shouldn't. Hopefully, if this is replaced and the needle itself is new as well the issue of overfueling should improve.

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Should the nozzle slide freely over the needle like this? Or should it actually create a seal before the taper to stop the flow of all fuel at idle? Also, in that short video clip I posted did it seem like the slide was responding the way it should to you? Thanks again!

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Edited by Dimelol

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Well, it has to slide freely but can't have much play at all - the only way to know is to compare it to a new one usually. It's kind of hard to tell with the naked eye. Your slide did appear to move normally and if it was worn down that would allow extra air through making it leaner, right?!

Another thing to watch for is the o-ring on the float valve (needle & seat) - was a new one used when the parts were changed out?

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8 hours ago, spock58 said:

Well, it has to slide freely but can't have much play at all - the only way to know is to compare it to a new one usually. It's kind of hard to tell with the naked eye. Your slide did appear to move normally and if it was worn down that would allow extra air through making it leaner, right?!

Another thing to watch for is the o-ring on the float valve (needle & seat) - was a new one used when the parts were changed out?

Yeah, i swapped out all of the o-rings and installed a new needle/seat assembly, pressure tested as well. The old one was shot. You are right that would make sense. I'll see how much free play it has tomorrow, It is hard to see in the pictures but it seems like the needle is resting on one side of the nozzle, as if the needle is a little off center. I don't know if that's normal, but it's the only thing I have been able to find that has made me suspicious. 

If that doesn't work, I think at this point i am just going to buy this cheap amazon carb and see what happens when i install it. If it solves the issue maybe i can compare it to the OEM one and find out what's going on. Just knowing is worth the 40.00 to me at this point. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FTGCBD4/?coliid=IF4ZSB0FNTMC4&colid=1BQOQJI1T7NLS&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

 

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@Frank Angerano @spock58 I put everything back together well enough to start the 4 wheeler to see if it changed anything, no luck. I did record a clip of how it sounds at idle for you guys to see if it gives you any new clues. When I initially start it it hovers at around 2500 rpm for about 30-45 seconds then works it's way down to sounding like this, which is around 1500 rpm (what it should be according to the book). I forgot to record the initial cold start so you won't hear that unfortunately. I figured it couldn't hurt since you guys are experienced with these 4 strokes. I ended up ordering that cheap amazon carb to see if it makes a difference at all. Should be here mid week.

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That’s a way high rpm for a start up. A cold start rpm should be about 1500 and come down to 800-900.   Hopefully your new cheap carb will give you some good indicators as to what’s going on. My guess is the engine will fire right up, idle and run well sitting.  Once you go to ride it then you will see how the cheap carbs react and have flat spots on the throttle but maybe you will get lucky.   

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On 8/19/2019 at 6:42 AM, Frank Angerano said:

That’s a way high rpm for a start up. A cold start rpm should be about 1500 and come down to 800-900.   Hopefully your new cheap carb will give you some good indicators as to what’s going on. My guess is the engine will fire right up, idle and run well sitting.  Once you go to ride it then you will see how the cheap carbs react and have flat spots on the throttle but maybe you will get lucky.   

I installed the new carb today and it idles much better. I am having an issue now where it backfires past a quarter throttle or so. I suppose it is running a little lean now. What you would adjust first to try an remedy that? The needle is easy to access but the fuel air mixture screw is a pain in the ass that requires the carb to be removed all the way. I have it set at 2 turns out. 

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So guess what screw needs to be adjusted? 

The air fuel mixture screw!!!!!!!  Sucks but yes that’s the one.

Please tell me you put a good quality carb on, maybe oem ? 

Double check the specs and see where they have it set at and put it there. You may need to adjust a hair either way but that gets you close.   

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