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Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones

Polaris 500 sportsman give it gas stalls

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From the post I quoted it looks like the stator plate has to go on in a specific position ( otherwise your timing would be off) I’m not sure what it looks like from you perspective, did it have some indexing marks or anything? Also, are you using the stock fuel pump or do you have it directly run from the fuel tank to the carb?

Edited by BuggyMasters

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I'm using stock fuel pump I tried running it straight to the carb and it did the same thing I didn't see no Mark's on stator plate but then again I wasn't looking for any either I just put it back where the old washer mark were from the bolts. I'm just stumped idled great with other electronics on put brand new on not cant get it to stay running for more than 30 seconds now weird 

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Hi, I had a problem like this Quad.  My Quad would not accelerate, but would idle and start just fine.  It was a bad CDI that would not advance the timing.  

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On the new cdi box and stator theres a white and white/red from pickup coil where the 2 plug together I think the clips molded wrong goes from the white from stator to white/red of cdi box then white/red from stator goes to white of cdi box wiring diagram says the colors should match so I'm thinking polarity to cdi box is backwards opinions anyone and there molded ends

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Yea keys there not sheared pulled it off 6 times now alright every body i do need your guys help tomorrow I'm switching those 2 wires back to colors that match from pickup coil not sure if polarity is wrong but if it was did it short anything out? Is there away to test each individual one without it running I'm talking stator cdi voltage regulator coil all of it it is mechanically strong compression test everything is perfect so it leaves carb or electrical I'm trying to find a cheap used carb as I message you a new remanufactured one just cost way to much I'm about $1200 in this so far I have to figure out when cost overcomes price so any help the better

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You should be able to  clean  all the jets and passages in your  carb.  You should not  need a new one  unless that  one  is seriously corroded..  Stalling on giving it the gas is usually  a  lean  burn  problem  caused  by   air bleed screw misadjustment  or  a plugged and overlooked jet or  missed hole in one of the  fuel  tubes.  There are some really tiny ones easy to  miss.  If there  is an   acceleration pump to  give it  a  momentary  shot of  gas that could also  be  faulty.  Those are  all the fuel side.  The other thing is ignition breakdown when  combustion  chamber pressures jump  with the  throttle  moved off idle.  Do  you  have a spark checker  to  see if the spark  is  still good when  you  hit the throttle ?  If  spark  disappears when  you  do   you know  the problem  is in the ignition circuit. If  you don't see any hesitation in the spark  give that  carb another tear down  and very close inspection. You  need an exploded view  of that  carb to see where everything goes  and  look for overlooked  screws ,  like some carbs have .. Some carbs  have both an  air  bleed   screw  and  an  unnoticed  fuel screw  as   was  noted  in another thread  on another  machine .If it runs at  idle  and stalls on acceleration  it  is  fuel  or  spark.  Fuel  is the most common  problem .  I'm taking it for granted you  have a new properly  gapped  plug   and a new plug wire.

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For the first time ever I was able to actually rev it up worked great went right back down to idle did it 6or7 times just perfect then thermostat light came on from opening compression release cover so much I lost alot of coolant gonna let it cool down put coolant in it start it again and see where I sit right now has my Hope's up

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3 hours ago, Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones said:

For the first time ever I was able to actually rev it up worked great went right back down to idle did it 6or7 times just perfect then thermostat light came on from opening compression release cover so much I lost alot of coolant gonna let it cool down put coolant in it start it again and see where I sit right now has my Hope's up

Are you kidding me? Wow what a PITA! So how can they get switched? The connector just allows any wire to go to it? What a battle!

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No both ends are molded ends but when you put them together the white matched up to the red white instead of white and vise versa I cut it yesterday flipped them put it back together started and ran like a rape dape so it was 1 of the 3 that was bad tho that wouldn't let it run right 

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Glad you  finally  got it . I would never  have blamed   the CDI  being wired wrong..  LOL. usually  wire electronics wrong  and they don't work period and often   all  the magic smoke leaks out

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Honestly I don't no what was bad if I have to bet it was the stator but I ordered all 3 stator cdi and voltage regulator and when I did from pickup coil to cdi when you pushed the 2 connector together just a 2 wire colors didn't match on other side they were backwards matched colors runs like a rape dape took my first real ride on my quad today back home and perfect hope this case helps someone 

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Question runs great but when it sits and cools down it takes me forever to get it started but when it warms up u just touch the start button and fires right up to me seems like rings might b worn and needs a new set but I'm just curious now what every one else thinks. I've went through this bike from top to bottom only thing I can think of is rings

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I  don't think  rings  are the problem.  I've seen  some pretty worn  out  motors  start right up  without a problem..  My guess is it  is either  running a little too lean  or the  choke isn't  working.  Cold  motors need a richer  fuel  mixture to  start.  That's why  most carbs  have a choke, either manual  or automatic, or a lever   to enrichen the mixture and  fuel  injection motors  have a start enrichening cycle for cold motors

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Screw in to  lean ,  out to enrich. Most  carbs  are set to  1 1/2 to  2  turns out  from  lightly seated. adjust in and out  about  a 1/4  turn at  a time to  find the sweet  spot  where  it idles good (  usually  just below  max idle when  warm)  and doesn't stumble  when  you  go  to  accelerate .

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