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Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones

Polaris 500 sportsman give it gas stalls

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I’ve definitely seen worse plugs. No chance the choke cable isn’t seated properly at the carb is there? Darker means rich but like I said I’ve seen worse. I’ve actually seen the choke cable not seated properly three times this year. So can you rev it now?

And did you check voltage at battery while running?

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It wont stay running long enough idles for about a minute then it goes to stall right before it dies completely the last second it like hits a compression stroke and literally sounds like it does throw it backwards just looks like a super weak spark before it was almost all blue now it's all light yellow pickup coil doesn't have adjustment for it so I was wondering if I turn stator plate just a hair will that adjust pick up coil and I'm pretty positive timing supposed to be on that upside down t right cause theres also 3 hash marks in there but when goes to turn over it's super hard to turn over but once it just gets past that compression then it takes off and goes 

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Here’s what Old Polaris Tech said about the cam timing. The T indicates TDC and the three hash marks you see are for checking timing with a timing light when running.

anyways:

Welcome ! You say you have the cam timing figured out,but just in case: The lower cam sprocket gear should have the dot lined up with the mark at the bottom of the case(this is tdc on the piston),the upper cam sprocket should have the index pin pointing straight up. IF you place the single plated link on the chain bottom dot,the two plated links should line up on the two dots on the upper sprocket. It's NOT really necessary to do this with the chain,the most important thing is to keep the bottom mark lined up and the index pin on the cam pointing straight up dead center of the head. The tensioner must be removed and collapsed and once the cam timing is set install the tensioner body,then the tensioner spring and cap nut to take up chain slack. The stator plate should have one mark that lines up with the mark at the top on the engine case itself,UNLESS someone has been making addition marks tinkering with the timing. Plus look at the "Sticky" thread about viewable pdf manuals and the pictures on timing of the cam and stator should help. The holes on the flywheel are "balancing" holes,just to keep the flywheel running true and no heavy areas to cause vibration.Also on the flywheel edge is an etched "T" for tdc while viewing through the inspection hole of the recoil. OPT

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Is the plug gap correct? Obviously what your  looking for is a blue spark but the gap could be off and the secondary coil could be weak. 

I would go with checking the gap first and maybe an adjustment on the air fuel screw.  @BuggyMasters has a good point with the choke. I did it myself last week, but I was able to notice a black smoke coming from the exhaust and went back to double check and sure as shit the choke slide was not properly installed, I backed it out and reset it and problem solved.  I also installed two jets in the wrong spots and could not get past 1/4 throttle, this all because I was moving along to quickly.  Took a step back and a breather (beer) lol and came back and noticed right away what I did wrong. 

@BuggyMasters your a big help brother, keep up the good work on helping out.  

@Flipper Tiffany Roper Jones This one is going to go down as the PITA award for 2019 on atv’s. Stick with it and it will get back to good. 

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It's hard as heck to start turns over turns over then starts idles good for 30 sec then dies like once the gas is out of the bowl its dies but didn't do that with last electric idled perfect only died when you gave it fuel I'm so frustrated its unreal really thought it was gonna start run great and would be riding it by now

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From the post I quoted it looks like the stator plate has to go on in a specific position ( otherwise your timing would be off) I’m not sure what it looks like from you perspective, did it have some indexing marks or anything? Also, are you using the stock fuel pump or do you have it directly run from the fuel tank to the carb?

Edited by BuggyMasters

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I'm using stock fuel pump I tried running it straight to the carb and it did the same thing I didn't see no Mark's on stator plate but then again I wasn't looking for any either I just put it back where the old washer mark were from the bolts. I'm just stumped idled great with other electronics on put brand new on not cant get it to stay running for more than 30 seconds now weird 

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Hi, I had a problem like this Quad.  My Quad would not accelerate, but would idle and start just fine.  It was a bad CDI that would not advance the timing.  

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On the new cdi box and stator theres a white and white/red from pickup coil where the 2 plug together I think the clips molded wrong goes from the white from stator to white/red of cdi box then white/red from stator goes to white of cdi box wiring diagram says the colors should match so I'm thinking polarity to cdi box is backwards opinions anyone and there molded ends

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Yea keys there not sheared pulled it off 6 times now alright every body i do need your guys help tomorrow I'm switching those 2 wires back to colors that match from pickup coil not sure if polarity is wrong but if it was did it short anything out? Is there away to test each individual one without it running I'm talking stator cdi voltage regulator coil all of it it is mechanically strong compression test everything is perfect so it leaves carb or electrical I'm trying to find a cheap used carb as I message you a new remanufactured one just cost way to much I'm about $1200 in this so far I have to figure out when cost overcomes price so any help the better

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