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Sonders

KVF300 Prairie service manual

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I was just looking at the manual and that does seem weird that it just slides off. Are there any bolts/brackets missing on the swing arm or any bushingS that seem not right ? There should be a constant pressure holding all that together.  The bayou is a little different and locks in with all four of the bolt you see on the bevel gear housing case.  
I would definitely inspect every bushing and bolt back there and make sure everything is tight. 
How do the universal joints look and feel ? 
 

You could spray it good with a cleaner and add a drop of silicone then slide it back in and let it dry. Maybe that will stop if from sliding out. 
My last guess is that the seal itself has worn down from rotation and has gotten shorter which means replacement.  

Edited by Frank Angerano

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I kind of wish I would have went ahead and ordered new seal when I ordered the boot since I was already paying shipping.  I'll go ahead and pull that cover off of the gear housing tonight and check O ring on backside of it.  I see an O ring in parts diagram, maybe I should go ahead and replace it and the seal.  The u joint in the swingarm seems good and tight still.  Earlier in the thread Frank you had mentioned about my picture of where the swingarm met up with the gear housing looked like it was off adjustment wise; however I don't see anyway of adjusting that. 

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It could have been the way the boot just sits in there that makes is looked cocked. Before you tighten up the new boot just be sure to take a look and see how the shaft and U joints line up. 
As far as the O rings in the bevel gear housing if they aren’t leaking you can let them be but that’s up to you.  The rear seal I have a feeling is just worn so when you get the new one measure or compare them.  See how they match up this way you have an answer. If they are the same size then you have to start looking elsewhere for why that seal is slipping out. 

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The wait is on for parts to arrive that I ordered.  Man I hate waiting for parts.  Any answer to my earlier question on what fluid to use to refill rear gear box?

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Didn’t have much time to work on it tonight; not really anything else I can do until parts arrive.  Snapped a few more pictures. U joint inside of swingarm.  Side view of gear housing with swingarm removed.  Closer view of backside of gear housing.

45E33241-F4EE-4E1D-B41B-3C831CAD57E6.jpeg

89648506-0B8C-46AC-87EA-E57408F0398C.jpeg

D9E59C92-BEE7-4BD6-9ABD-0AC42ECD6250.jpeg

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That drive shaft looks new.  The u joints need grease.  Also keep in mind the drive shaft could be slipping due to something on the back end.  Where the rear differential and the shaft meet?  So if that new seal is the same size as the old one the problem may be down low.  Might as well take a looK while it’s open.  

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Right, I may as well open up the rear diff while at it.  The u joint didn’t look like that when I first pulled it apart; it seems to have developed surface rust while sitting exposed to the air apparently.  It’s in garage, but non heated.  I turn on a couple of infared heaters when I go out there to work.  I’ll definitely still hit it with some fresh grease before putting it all back together.

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The rust is no big deal I was saying it looked new.   Color looks great and seems very fresh.   
Grease is a must when reassembling.  
 

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Nope, looks like tomorrow.  I tried Partzilla this time around.  They had better pricing but damn they are slow to ship.

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was out of commission over the holiday sick so didn't get much time wrenching the past week.  I did manage to get seals replaced and swing arm mounted back on lastnight.  I attempted to mess with rear drum brake to get it freed up and lubed but didn't get very far.  The castle nut that is on the outside of the hub; is it left hand thread or something?  I could not get it to budge with my 1/2" impact.  I even tried my breaker bar w/ a cheater pipe and all it did was slowly turn the entire axle.  Wondering if I need to put a wrench on one of the locknuts that is between the drum and hub to keep the axle from spinning.  I need to put some fresh oil back in at messing with drain plug and seals and see if the damn thing will run now.

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Im surprised that the  nut is so tight. It should be normal tighten threaded. Have you double  checked that there is not a piece of the cotter pin stuck in the hole also a little heat works well but be sure to put a cold rag over the hub to keep everything else cool and the flame localized to the nut. 
Try to go both ways after you heat it ip.  
 

Feel better. 

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Cotter pin for sure came out complete.  The cotter pin and castle nut look brand new, so I don’t know what to think.  I’ll give er another go tomorrow night and see what happens.

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had a little time to work last night.  Was able to get the drum all apart.  Castlenut was locktited on all threads.  Heated it with handheld propane torch and slowly worked it off.  Had one stubborn screw of course on bottom side of the drum cover that wouldn't come out and head stripped out; had to use vise grips on it.  Nothing is ever easy.  Ran out of time to actually do anything once the drum was apart, but it's a start.  Feeling like total crap again so who knows when I'll get back out there to do anything else.  Stay tuned.

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Glad to hear that the heat worked on the castle nut, sorry to hear your feeling like shit again! Not worth relapsing, one thing I've learned is when your body talks you should listen!  Take a breather and rest up the bike will still be there when your back up to par. 
 

 

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