KVF300 Prairie service manual

[Frank Angerano 551]

I was just looking at the manual and that does seem weird that it just slides off. Are there any bolts/brackets missing on the swing arm or any bushingS that seem not right ? There should be a constant pressure holding all that together.  The bayou is a little different and locks in with all four of the bolt you see on the bevel gear housing case.  
I would definitely inspect every bushing and bolt back there and make sure everything is tight. 
How do the universal joints look and feel ? 
 

You could spray it good with a cleaner and add a drop of silicone then slide it back in and let it dry. Maybe that will stop if from sliding out. 
My last guess is that the seal itself has worn down from rotation and has gotten shorter which means replacement.  

Edited November 19 by Frank Angerano

[Sonders 9]

I kind of wish I would have went ahead and ordered new seal when I ordered the boot since I was already paying shipping.  I'll go ahead and pull that cover off of the gear housing tonight and check O ring on backside of it.  I see an O ring in parts diagram, maybe I should go ahead and replace it and the seal.  The u joint in the swingarm seems good and tight still.  Earlier in the thread Frank you had mentioned about my picture of where the swingarm met up with the gear housing looked like it was off adjustment wise; however I don't see anyway of adjusting that. 

[Frank Angerano 551]

It could have been the way the boot just sits in there that makes is looked cocked. Before you tighten up the new boot just be sure to take a look and see how the shaft and U joints line up. 
As far as the O rings in the bevel gear housing if they aren’t leaking you can let them be but that’s up to you.  The rear seal I have a feeling is just worn so when you get the new one measure or compare them.  See how they match up this way you have an answer. If they are the same size then you have to start looking elsewhere for why that seal is slipping out. 

[Sonders 9]

The wait is on for parts to arrive that I ordered.  Man I hate waiting for parts.  Any answer to my earlier question on what fluid to use to refill rear gear box?

[Frank Angerano 551]

Nothing worse then waiting for parts! Here is a topic on differential fluids. 
 

 

 

 

 

https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-equipment/atv-and-utv/sport/synthetic-atv-utv-transmission-and-differential-fluid/?zo=34396

[Sonders 9]

Didn’t have much time to work on it tonight; not really anything else I can do until parts arrive.  Snapped a few more pictures. U joint inside of swingarm.  Side view of gear housing with swingarm removed.  Closer view of backside of gear housing.

[Frank Angerano 551]

That drive shaft looks new.  The u joints need grease.  Also keep in mind the drive shaft could be slipping due to something on the back end.  Where the rear differential and the shaft meet?  So if that new seal is the same size as the old one the problem may be down low.  Might as well take a looK while it’s open.  

[Sonders 9]

Right, I may as well open up the rear diff while at it.  The u joint didn’t look like that when I first pulled it apart; it seems to have developed surface rust while sitting exposed to the air apparently.  It’s in garage, but non heated.  I turn on a couple of infared heaters when I go out there to work.  I’ll definitely still hit it with some fresh grease before putting it all back together.

[Frank Angerano 551]

The rust is no big deal I was saying it looked new.   Color looks great and seems very fresh.   
Grease is a must when reassembling.  
 

[Frank Angerano 551]

Parts come in ? 

[Sonders 9]

Nope, looks like tomorrow.  I tried Partzilla this time around.  They had better pricing but damn they are slow to ship.

[Frank Angerano 551]

I know the feeling. 

[Sonders 9]

was out of commission over the holiday sick so didn't get much time wrenching the past week.  I did manage to get seals replaced and swing arm mounted back on lastnight.  I attempted to mess with rear drum brake to get it freed up and lubed but didn't get very far.  The castle nut that is on the outside of the hub; is it left hand thread or something?  I could not get it to budge with my 1/2" impact.  I even tried my breaker bar w/ a cheater pipe and all it did was slowly turn the entire axle.  Wondering if I need to put a wrench on one of the locknuts that is between the drum and hub to keep the axle from spinning.  I need to put some fresh oil back in at messing with drain plug and seals and see if the damn thing will run now.

[Frank Angerano 551]

Im surprised that the  nut is so tight. It should be normal tighten threaded. Have you double  checked that there is not a piece of the cotter pin stuck in the hole also a little heat works well but be sure to put a cold rag over the hub to keep everything else cool and the flame localized to the nut. 
Try to go both ways after you heat it ip.  
 

Feel better. 

[Sonders 9]

Cotter pin for sure came out complete.  The cotter pin and castle nut look brand new, so I don’t know what to think.  I’ll give er another go tomorrow night and see what happens.

[Frank Angerano 551]

Spray the shit out of it with penetration oil in the meantime so it can soak. 

[Sonders 9]

had a little time to work last night.  Was able to get the drum all apart.  Castlenut was locktited on all threads.  Heated it with handheld propane torch and slowly worked it off.  Had one stubborn screw of course on bottom side of the drum cover that wouldn't come out and head stripped out; had to use vise grips on it.  Nothing is ever easy.  Ran out of time to actually do anything once the drum was apart, but it's a start.  Feeling like total crap again so who knows when I'll get back out there to do anything else.  Stay tuned.

[Frank Angerano 551]

Glad to hear that the heat worked on the castle nut, sorry to hear your feeling like shit again! Not worth relapsing, one thing I've learned is when your body talks you should listen!  Take a breather and rest up the bike will still be there when your back up to par. 
 

 

[Sonders 9]

Slowly getting back to action.  Took another look at brake assembly and watched a couple YouTube videos on the subject.  I can not get the brake drum off.  What am I missing?  Should it be able to spin around on the axle, or does it only go on in a certain position.  I can’t get behind it well enough to get a good hit on it with a bar or anything.  What’s the trick?

 

[Frank Angerano 551]

Spray it good with penetration oil and use a rubber mallet and tap it a few times all around. That drum looks cracked or is it the pics? 

If you plan on using any heat here you have to be super careful here not to melt a seal.  

[Sonders 9]

Just the pic, it’s not cracked.....yet.  Whoops I’ve already smacked on it a bit with 3lb sledge.  I also tried heating around the axle a little bit.  I tried using a small pry bar to pry around the edges.  The edge of the backing plate is looking a little rough now though from prying against it.  Hope I didn’t ruin it.  Parts diagram list a big O ring that is supposed to go between the drum and the backing plate.  If there was one on this bike, it is long gone as I don’t see any remains of one.  

[Frank Angerano 551]

Your going to need a wheel puller with long arms.  Check out amazon they have a few different types.  You may have to get the type that has hooks to go into the holes on the drum or take a few large hose clamps and put them around the drum, tighten good and use a standard type long arm puller.   

[Sonders 9]

drum just needed to soak I guess.  I sprayed it down real well lastnight with lube and tonight it slid right off.  The pads look like they have plenty of pad left.  Now I don’t know what needs to be done to free the brake up.  Does the cam turn pushing the pads out against the drum?  Do I just need to lube up the cam and try to work it back and forth?  I don’t really see anything else that would move.  As you can see from the pics, I messed up a few places of the backing plate.  I’m wondering if that matters?

[Frank Angerano 551]

Nice work brother. So spray the cam lobe with penetration oil as well and let them sit. The cam should rotate with the brake lever and expand the cam in between the brake shoes thus expanding them. 
There is a brake grease you can and should put on the lobe when your all free and moving and ready to close it all up. 
 

The area I circled should move. Spray the shit out of everything except the surface of the brake pads and hit everything with a wire brush.  You can out blue painters tape on the brake pad surface before spraying it all down. 

[Sonders 9]

Ok, kind of what I thought but can honestly say I’ve never really messed with drum brakes before so wasn’t 100% sure.  Will lube it all up this weekend and hopefully get it put back together.