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Chris2018

1996 Kawasaki Mojave KSF250 No Spark

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Thanks. And don't ask me how I completely missed that in the manual. But it was  originally lined up with just the notch befor the T. Is there a chance the velves are bent. Or is that not far enough off to cause damage

 

And the top part of the dot on the exhaust cam is lined up with the top of the head correct while the inlet cam bottom part of the dot is lined up with the top of the head correct?

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Ha, that's interesting. An old Honda manual I have said to line it up using the hash mark right by the T. Wonder if I mis timed the last yamaha i rebuilt then....

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Thansk. I appreciate all the help that had been given. As stated before this is my first real tare down and rebuild.

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Now I'm a little confused when reading these feeler gauges. The manual says to set velves between 20 and 24 mm. Is this the correct gauge to use. The extra numbers confuse me. This is 20mm?

15714399016193182161627106983266.jpg

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So to make sure I'm clear as I'm getting ready to do this. My feeler gauge that says,.    .508                                                .020mm , is the correct one?

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On your feeler gauge the .020 is the Inch measurement which is equal to .508 mm

Frank is correct that it is the right gauge, yet he is mistaken to say .020 is 20mm

Try to remember that 1 mm is = to .03937 inch

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Its been confusing the hell out of me bc I seen someplace that they should be set at .008 also

And in the manual is says 20-24mm so when I was looking at the gauge I was thinking the .20 was in inches and not mm and I don't know just confused the hell out of me

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I'm trying to make sure I got this right. The 3 degrees messes me up some. Here is two picture of the way I have the timing set. I have the 1st and 43rd tooth marked along with the dots on the cams. 

IMG_20191019_163926.jpg

IMG_20191019_164002.jpg

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That is correct @Freezeman thank you for clarifying that.  @Chris2018 that looks correct with the timing. When you have the cam chain tensioner tight rotate the engine without the spark plug installed and make sure it cycles nice and smooth. You can use your hand and slowly push the kick starter down nice and easy.  Feel for any hits or resistance  and check that the marks line up on the sprockets as you rotate the engine and the piston hits TDC again.   
 

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So I set the valves at .20 mm, the tip of 22mm will fit but 24 won't fit at all. Starts up nice runs ok still need to figure out air fuel mixture for some reason the manual specs are not really working. But I just noticed that my exhaust is turning red coming off the motor. What would be the cause of this.

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Double check that the exhaust is not backed up.  Even if you have to pull the silencer off and run it. The silencer could be clogged and causing this. Make sure you have the proper spark plug in the machine and not a hot plug.   

What did you set the air fuel screw at ? Spec says it’s 1-3/4 I went to 2 in mine and it ran good. 

 

 

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Thats about where i am at 2 turns out. When I did the valves do I make the screw tight on the 20mm or so it will slide on and out with a stiff ease

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You put the gauge in tighten the adjustment until it takes a slight pull  for it to come out. Not tight where you have to yank the gauge out but enough where you need to pull it out out and it slides right out.  
 

If your 2 turns out go back a quarter to 1-3/4 and  see if it runs better. If not go 2-1/4 out and see how that goes.  Trial and error my friend.   How about that exhaust,any luck? 

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I read that the top end should make a light ticking if valves are correct is this true

I haven't been able to get back out and take the muffler off yet.  I should be out in about an hour and will let you know

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If your referring to the air duct at the front of the atv that’s under the plastic the answer is no. The plastic has a cap built in that allows air to get in.   

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Well I wasn't able to get back out lastnight. Getting around to check things out now. I'm going to recheck my valve settings timing ect. I forgot to mention that the couple times I did test ride it not long after riding it would just quit shut off. I would have to wait and clean the plug. Could I just nock the insides out of the muffler rather then run it without one 

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I would pull the silencer off leave the pipe on from the engine and see if the exhaust pipe goes to glowing again while it’s running or pull the silencer off and inspect it to see if there is a blockage.   

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I was able to get out today and pole the silencer off. It didn't seem to get as read. The top-end has a soft light ticking since I've adjusted the valves. I read this is normal is this correct. But for some reason it seems to run the best when I have the air fuel mixture screw all the way in, I have already bought a rebuild kit. The only thing I didn't get was the air/fuel screw but it came with a new rubber seal and washer for it. And the other thing the spark plug wire gets so hot it feels like it may melt. When I have the air fuel screw turned 13/4 out it spits and sputters when i put it in gear and let the clutch out

Edited by Chris2018
Miss type

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