1999 suzuki king quad fuel pump/petcock/carb advice

[Frank Angerano]

In the great words of Spock ! May that atv live long and prosper.... @spock58

@Dra O enjoy and stay in touch! 

 

😂

[Dra O]

Haaa!  I hope she does!  Will post video if youngest child can get video from phone to laptop.

And I may have another "project" soon (I officially have "the bug"... scary thought, I know).  A patient of mine has what he thinks is an older arctic cat - maybe early 2000 model - it's outside his home - not ridden in years - gotta inspect, get specs and see what parts are available first.

This whole process was very thorough - someone else can see exactly what we've done, step by step - try this, don't try that - and it's recorded here with pictures - it's BOUND to help someone having similar issues.

Thank you all again - you guys ROCK!

[Frank Angerano]

Thats what its all about paying it forward! 
One thing about this is yes it's addicting! 
Ride safe 

[Dra O]

took the KQ out for a brief spin - runs really good in this warmer weather.  got home - checked air filter just for kicks - perfect - bright yellow and dry - removed filter out and noticed water in bottom of air box.  not a lot and it didn't get the filter wet.  found drain plug, let it drain, recapped and good to go.  how the hell did water get into the sealed airbox?  I rode it near/around our lake but didn't submerge the machine (i'm not that brave) - at most I rode across 1/4 of water for about 20 feet.  the machine has been under my house in a constant 72 degree, dry environment since last summer.

lastly - any specific brands of solenoids you all like?  RM Stator's looks good and has a 2 year warranty - but I thought stens made one at one time - I cannot find stens online. 

Before putting plastics back on (always enjoyable, like getting carb out) I replaced original solenoid with new one off amazon (<$10) - put ALL the plastics back on and it lasted all of 2-3 months until the ol' clickety click click click - bottom of amazon solenoid had rust on it, so i'm imagining rust on internal magnet - tapped it good w/ hammer but couldn't get it to loosen up.  Took plastics back off, replaced with original solenoid and it's going good (at 20 years old). not gonna replace solenoid until have a reputable one - and I may put a light film of grease or permaseal around the joints to keep water out.

thoughts?

 

[Frank Angerano]

Thats some good news.
 

RM stator has good products, so i would go that route. 
As far as water in the box i find it odd other then that ride you took so maybe a crack in the box? Something has to be kicking up into the box.  
 I would dry the box out and hit the bike with a hose and check it.  If not then find some puddles and take a ride and keep checking. Process of elimination I would think is whats going to get to the bottom of this. 
 

Are you sure its water and not any other fluid? 

[Dra O]

yep - the seam at end of forceps goes all along the internal joint - I can push the box toward the rear and see the gap widening just a hair.  don't see any other visible joint spaces or fluid/moisture.  should be able to take air box out without touching carb.

gonna hit it with a hose this weekend or next to make sure that's it - but I don't have any doubts.  weird how I just wanted to check the filter and found this surprise

makes me want to leave cap off end to let water flow but don't want any critters in airbox and it may affect performance

 

so, silicone along outside joint after letting it dry for 48-72 hours?  I wouldn't think it'd be an issue putting it on inside, as well 

re: solenoid - I agree - they're $30 but will likely last a lot longer.  putting grease/permaseal on outside joints to prevent moisture won't hurt, will it?

and yessir, it was water - no gas smell - no greasy residue

[Dra O]

water leak fixed, thanks to permaseal.

bearings were replaced but machine sounds a bit louder from wheels when driving on street - not too worried about this at present.

newest issue is the gears (i'm guessing the issues don't end on a 20 year old atv):

- first gear is fine - switching to second gear there's a lull... then it finally grabs and goes - it's not a knock you out, atv rocking grab, but a slow grab and eventually a regular pull - I haven't tried it under any type of load - it's also harder now to pull up on the gear shift than before - I don't hear any grinding sounds when shifting

- hopefully this is a clutch issue.  I can try to adjust this.  am I headed in the right direction?

[Frank Angerano]

Excellent work so far and great info/pics to help the next person! Your definitely moving in the right direction.  As fas as the gears go a slow shift in my past experience of an old bike that was laying around turned out to be sludge stuck at the bottom of the engine.  I mean it was bad. However this one particular was sitting for prob 15 years.  It took several oil changes to work it out.  But yours could be something different. Maybe a tired spring or like you said a clutch issue. 

[Dra O]

anyone repair a CV boot without replacing one?  mechanic told me I could clean area really good, then apply silicone to the hole - hole measures just under an inch long and is about a 1/4 wide and is on top of one of the front boots.

I've seen "split" cv boots that appear to act as a shroud on top of existing boot - don't wanna junk things up but if it were clamped really tightly on top of existing boot wouldn't this be an option, however temporary?  any input appreciated.  gonna look around for this topic for a bit

[Ajmboy]

On 5/20/2020 at 12:40 AM, Dra O said:

anyone repair a CV boot without replacing one?  mechanic told me I could clean area really good, then apply silicone to the hole - hole measures just under an inch long and is about a 1/4 wide and is on top of one of the front boots.

I've seen "split" cv boots that appear to act as a shroud on top of existing boot - don't wanna junk things up but if it were clamped really tightly on top of existing boot wouldn't this be an option, however temporary?  any input appreciated.  gonna look around for this topic for a bit

There are some sealants that can patch cv boots, just depends on how long it holds. This stuff came up online for cv boot repair some people claim works:

 

Some people have tried rubber cement. The fix is to just replace the boot or axle but if you want to try something like sealing, can't hurt. Maybe you seen this video below?

 

[Dra O]

i'd seen that video before but couldn't find product online - I think amazon cancelled it - ordered some self-fusing rubber tape from china that i'm going to evaluate - worth a shot

unsure if mentioned that I took KQ to atv guy - valves needed adjusting - clutch was slipping some - carb needle adjusted while there and it runs/idles the best it ever has - he said it was running too rich

while there atv guy asked if i'd heard any popping noise from back end - I hadn't - 2 weeks later, I hear popping - today the back left wheel locked up - see picture

will the wheel spin freely if I take off wheel and other inner parts?  or is it doomed to never roll again, until axle is fixed?

and can that area be welded or am I looking at a whole new back end?

[spock58]

Looks like you need another axle - ujoint packed it in probably.

[Dra O]

thanks, spock - you ever see one pop through the metal like that? 

how the hell would you go about moving the machine since that wheel is locked up?

not finding new ones on amazon or ebay - not checked cycle shops yet - but i'd guess $150 apiece

[spock58]

All the ones I've seen don't have a metal cover like that one.

You're going to remove that broken axle before it will move - likely...

On the older Suzuki's like that they didn't rebuild, just replace as an assembly.

[Dra O]

if it were your 20 year old machine - that runs really nice - what would you do?

the guy is reasonable, but I wouldn't know if I need just an axle... or also a u joint... or also something else.  mechanics often find things ya really don't need - and not being a mechanic and a novice ATV rider helps very little.

not trying to take up your time

[spock58]

You know, I'd take the time to tear it down and see what the damage is. If you can get by with a couple hundred in parts plus labour I'd go for it.

[Dra O]

that's what I think.  if they last 8-10 years, even better.  and i'm looking at doing all of them - the CV boots are dried up anyway - it's only a matter of time until the others start to grind.

gotta figure out a way to move the 600 pound beast 30 feet to my workshop - I guess that's what teenage boys are for

thanks, spock

 

[Dra O]

perfect shape - no reason for the left rear tire not to rotate freely 

not difficult to remove for a novice

will try to send other picture if can decrease the size - it's even more perfect

[Dra O]

Admin - I was able to upload it

Community - you ever seen such a sight?

[spock58]

That's certainly the worst one I've seen, haha! Only one funnier is a Canam I worked on once for a fencing crew. The rear drive (prop) shaft was gone entirely! The guys hammered the poor thing for so long that once the u-joint exploded, the rest of the assembly abandoned ship. Kept driving it of course with only front wheel drive....had no foot peg/well on one side either, must have ridden side saddle.

[Dra O]

Now THAT's funny.  I've seen workers in my town riding side saddle - and they're some "larger than normal" boys - not two cares given

The u joint on the outer axle I pulled was welded in place - 4 spots - strange. 

I pulled out the inner axle and it had a lotta rust dust on it - what does this tell me about the center of the transmission that connects the axles?   That there's no grease in there?  Stupid question but does it need grease, or is it a bigger u-joint that doesn't require it?  I'd guess it would but i'm not the atv king.  I think I can push back the inner cv boot enough to get to the center if needed- use something long to cram grease in it both sides....

[skidooer_3]

Replace the pump with a snowmobile diaphragm pump she'll be fine pump wise. Peacocks usually leak because of worn o ring. When connected most fuel pumps have arrows on them to show flow direction.